Semi-hollow Body Bass Guitar - new long term project

[CrealBilly]

Are you going to do a bolt on/set/ or through neck. I started a build earlier this year after reading the same book(s) and tons of sites and pretty much ruined some good mahogany. However I have more and I am going to start my second attempt after the first of the year. Good luck I can't wait to see the progress. The biggest thing I can say is take your time and practice on scrap. I got in a rush and that's what lead to my killing the wood.

I kill wood all the time, one of the many reasons I bought a sawmill :gar-La; A wise man once told me if you don't make any mistakes your not doing nothing. I'm glad your going at it again.

Since the body is going to be painted, I'm opting for a quartersawn poplar body, it should be good and light and poplar is used for many semi hollow bodies anyways, it's supposed to gave a good tone. I could have want with maple but I think it would be too heavy. Since it's s semi hollow body I'm going with a bolt on maple neck, with a maple fingerboard.

Here's my second wiring diagram. I made a couple of changes and I'm pretty much settled in on the wiring now, unless there is a unseen problem... So please poke holes in it - thanks

 

[rcflyer23]

I kill wood all the time, one of the many reasons I bought a sawmill :gar-La; A wise man once told me if you don't make any mistakes your not doing nothing. I'm glad your going at it again.

Since the body is going to be painted, I'm opting for a quartersawn poplar body, it should be good and light and poplar is used for many semi hollow bodies anyways, it's supposed to gave a good tone. I could have want with maple but I think it would be too heavy. Since it's s semi hollow body I'm going with a bolt on maple neck, with a maple fingerboard.

Here's my second wiring diagram. I made a couple of changes and I'm pretty much settled in on the wiring now, unless there is a unseen problem... So please poke holes in it - thanks

Hmm. Sawmill... Thats a good idea.. one day... Oh yeah I wouldn't let something like killing some wood keep me from my passions, Music and woodworking. When I grow up this building guitars, etc is what I want to do.

That poplar should make a good sounding bass... Can't wait to see it done...

 

[CrealBilly]

Hmm. Sawmill... Thats a good idea.. one day... Oh yeah I wouldn't let something like killing some wood keep me from my passions, Music and woodworking. When I grow up this building guitars, etc is what I want to do.

That poplar should make a good sounding bass... Can't wait to see it done...

Wood is never really killed, it just becomes smaller :gar-Bi.

I got the body and neck blanks glued up and in the house acclimating. Going to start whittling on them after the 1st of the year. One thing that's bugging me is cutting the slots in the fingerboard. Did you get that far with yours? Did you cut your own or buy a preslotted board?

Thanks for the reply and any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[rcflyer23]

Wood is never really killed, it just becomes smaller :gar-Bi.

I got the body and neck blanks glued up and in the house acclimating. Going to start whittling on them after the 1st of the year. One thing that's bugging me is cutting the slots in the fingerboard. Did you get that far with yours? Did you cut your own or buy a preslotted board?

Thanks for the reply and any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I practiced a few times. I really need to buy a proper fret saw. Once I get a little further in this second build I'll pick one up. There is a bunch of stuff on ebay for good prices as far as specific tools for guitar building. There is a great site http://www.eguitarplans.com he shows alot of different things.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

Wood is never really killed, it just becomes smaller :gar-Bi.

I got the body and neck blanks glued up and in the house acclimating. Going to start whittling on them after the 1st of the year. One thing that's bugging me is cutting the slots in the fingerboard. Did you get that far with yours? Did you cut your own or buy a preslotted board?

Thanks for the reply and any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I built a few guitars with my brother and this is a step that has really got to be done right. You need your slots tight, to just the right depth (too deep is as bad as not deep enough), spaced perfectly, and perpendicular to the bridge/neck line. It really pays to get the right tools to help you lay out the spacing and cut the slots, and to practice (maybe get a spare fretboard or two).

I cut my own with a saw made for cutting fret slots, then I cut many slots and did a full mock fretting for about 10 slots or so to make sure it was getting to the right depth... then I marked that depth w/masking tape and went to work. I used templates that I made on a cnc machine in plexiglass and a miter box type guide built for the fretsaw. it worked fine, bit its precise work for sure.

you always could buy a pre cut board and eliminate some error, just depends on what you want to do.

Oh, and be really careful about how thin you make that neck... the string tension is astounding on a bass and it will affect your fret work as well when you start dressing them.

 

[CrealBilly]

I built a few guitars with my brother and this is a step that has really got to be done right. You need your slots tight, to just the right depth (too deep is as bad as not deep enough), spaced perfectly, and perpendicular to the bridge/neck line. It really pays to get the right tools to help you lay out the spacing and cut the slots, and to practice (maybe get a spare fretboard or two).

I cut my own with a saw made for cutting fret slots, then I cut many slots and did a full mock fretting for about 10 slots or so to make sure it was getting to the right depth... then I marked that depth w/masking tape and went to work. I used templates that I made on a cnc machine in plexiglass and a miter box type guide built for the fretsaw. it worked fine, bit its precise work for sure.

you always could buy a pre cut board and eliminate some error, just depends on what you want to do.

Oh, and be really careful about how thin you make that neck... the string tension is astounding on a bass and it will affect your fret work as well when you start dressing them.

My "plan" is to first build a fretless neck and get it shaped, feeling and playing right first. Once I got the fretless neck the way I want it, I build a second neck to match the shape of the first and add the frets.

I never thought about a CNC made template, that's one way to ensure accurate fret spacing for sure. I have a buddy with a bridgeport, who I was going to ask if I could use to slot a couple of finger boards. But your idea is better, Why not ask him to make up a couple sets of templates (33 1/4", 33 1/2", 34" inch scale) and I could mess up my own fingerboards with a fret saw practicing till I get it right.

Seeing I never done this before, I thoroughly expect to mess a bunch of stuff up but that's part of what makes it interesting. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment, I like to challenge the unknown. It's rewarding to me when you walk away knowing something you didn't know before.

Thanks for the insight - I really do appreciate it

 

[Mt. Gomer]

I'm not going to be much help diagnosing the wiring. I had to really study the various schemes out there to understand how they work and, after finding a couple of ideas I liked, how to get them to all work together.... I'm not to the point where I can look at something and tell what it's supposed to do, and definitely not if they're are issues.... Good luck though, it's very exciting project!

Travis

 

[JonT]

I love the design! It reminds me of the classic lines of the Rickenbacker 6 strings and (for some reason) the 50's Chevy Corvette.

I'm a little concerned about the bolt-on neck idea, from looking at the drawing it doesn't appear there is enough neck/body union to provide adequate mating surface? Maybe I'm just not reading it correctly. But with a semi-hollowbody, it's common for a thru-neck design since the neck "tail" forms the central block. I personally like Maple neck guitars. Look for close to perfectly quarter-sawn wood for maximum dimensional stability. (but if you change your mind and want an ebony fretboard, Woodcraft in Raleigh has a few sticks of Gaboon Ebony lumber at the moment.)

Oh, and apologies in advance for the detour but if you've not seen Rick Toone's work before, check out http://www.ricktoone.com/instruments.html and prepare to be amazed. I think he's one of the most innovative builders on the scene, opting for very "organic" designs that conform to the player. (no j-bass clones here!) and he obviously respects the materials he uses (lots of walnut and curly maple).

Good luck with the project. Keep us updated!

 

[CrealBilly]

I love the design! It reminds me of the classic lines of the Rickenbacker 6 strings and (for some reason) the 50's Chevy Corvette.

I'm a little concerned about the bolt-on neck idea, from looking at the drawing it doesn't appear there is enough neck/body union to provide adequate mating surface? Maybe I'm just not reading it correctly. But with a semi-hollowbody, it's common for a thru-neck design since the neck "tail" forms the central block. I personally like Maple neck guitars. Look for close to perfectly quarter-sawn wood for maximum dimensional stability. (but if you change your mind and want an ebony fretboard, Woodcraft in Raleigh has a few sticks of Gaboon Ebony lumber at the moment.)

Oh, and apologies in advance for the detour but if you've not seen Rick Toone's work before, check out http://www.ricktoone.com/instruments.html and prepare to be amazed. I think he's one of the most innovative builders on the scene, opting for very "organic" designs that conform to the player. (no j-bass clones here!) and he obviously respects the materials he uses (lots of walnut and curly maple).

Good luck with the project. Keep us updated!

The more I study the more I learn and you nailed it, I was also concerned with the neck attachment.

My plan is a semi hollow body, I'll leave 2" each side of the centerline solid, the rest will be hollowed out to leave a 1" boarder all the way around and to a depth of 1 1/2" which will leave 1/4" thick top. Cavity routing is from the backside, pickup routing is from the front side. I'll have to divide off the electronic box from the treble side of the cavity to allow for a cover. when I'm happy with everything inside I'll glue down a 1/4 thick back which will make the body 2" thick

My thoughs for the neck body attachment is either a dovetail or mortis and tendon joint secured via two machine screws from inside the bass pickup cavity. That's what I meant by a bolt on, when really it's a insert neck style (I'm still learning guitar makers llingo). The neck style I have planned is similar to a Gibson or Martin acoustic. Here's a picture of the neck joint planned.

I figured I could insert the neck from the face and bolt it in from the bass pickup cavity. I would like to be able to tilt the neck for setup fine turning. I've got an idea how to tilt the neck at the joint but have not thought it all the way through yet.

The way the neck body joint was prior (which you caught) there was only about 1/2 inside the pickup cavity to the outside of the body. I added a 21st fret which will give me around a 1/2" more, leaving around 1". This should be enough wood for a good solid joint and also enough for some machine screws to hold it in place. Adding a 21st fret, meant I had to adjust the pickup spacing. Thankfully the drawing is in Visio so it's easy to move things around. When the chips start flying I may have to do something with the body contour at the body neck joint, like make it square. Right now it's on a radius which will make the joint more difficult to shape and fit.

Here's the latest design, I also added the badge (MCG) to the peg head and made up a tailpiece cover with her name (Leah) the cover will be some light colored wood like maple with the word Leah scrolled out so you'll be able to see the pained body color behind it.

Thanks for your comments and turning me on to Rick Toone's website.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

Now I've never done a 1" glue/bolt joint on a guitar before, but it seems really small to me for a bass. I would make the neck joint through the bottom of the pickup cavity, then rout away any excess on the neck as needed to fit any pickups you'll have. this isn't exactly what I'm talking about, but close... I guess I'm saying that your tennon isn't limited to the fretboard length or the boundaries of the pickup cavity.

 

[CrealBilly]

Now I've never done a 1" glue/bolt joint on a guitar before, but it seems really small to me for a bass. I would make the neck joint through the bottom of the pickup cavity, then rout away any excess on the neck as needed to fit any pickups you'll have. this isn't exactly what I'm talking about, but close... I guess I'm saying that your tennon isn't limited to the fretboard length or the boundaries of the pickup cavity.

Perhaps I didn't explain myself with words very well, that's not uncommon for me. English is my only language, but I don't write it or speak it very well... Now pictures that's universal language that most people understand (especially myself).

The reason I want to go with a insert neck is I wanted to make a fretless and a fretted neck for the same body. Here is a picture from google images, of the kind of joint I was planning on. it's called a bolt on insert neck.

Do you think this kind of joint will be strong enough? or should I thinking of something different, something like this?

Thanks

 

[CoolHandLuke]

Oh ok.. sorry, now I get it.

Umm tough one... I am not sure about the first one (that said, it may work... but I've only seen necks like those on acoustic guitars and they have big blocks they key into supporting more area than you'd have).

I'd be more comfortable with #2 for a bass (especially anything more than 4 strings), but on the other hand... it would never be any fun if everyone had the same answer to every dilemma. Who knows, may work fine. Good luck either way... what a fun project.:icon_thum

 

[rcflyer23]

I don't know about the fist one either. I've never seen that on an electric but I also haven't looked around to much either. That type of joint is typically on an acoustic from what I have seen so far. I Like the second style but with that type of neck I don't know that you will be able to change necks.

It will be interesting to see what you come up with.

Perhaps I didn't explain myself with words very well, that's not uncommon for me. English is my only language, but I don't write it or speak it very well... Now pictures that's universal language that most people understand (especially myself).

The reason I want to go with a insert neck is I wanted to make a fretless and a fretted neck for the same body. Here is a picture from google images, of the kind of joint I was planning on. it's called a bolt on insert neck.

Do you think this kind of joint will be strong enough? or should I thinking of something different, something like this?

Thanks

 

[CrealBilly]

Thanks guys it's time to think some more... I'm with you guys the second would be a heck of lot stronger and a lot easier to make. Since there will a 1/4 thick face I could route a nice long pocket from the back side of the body before I glue the 1/4" back on. I'm thinking the pocket would go maybe a inch or so past the bridge. The body will need to be a little face profiling for the tailpiece to work properly, else I could route the pocket further. I could bolt the neck to the body via the pickup cavities. two staggered bolts per cavity. That would make a 6 bolt neck. To change out necks, I would need to pull all 3 pickups, unbolt the neck from the body, slide in the new neck, bolt it down, and replace the pickups.

Since it's not been done this way before (at least that I'm aware of) I'm thinking of calling it a piston or pocket fit neck... thoughts?

 

[CrealBilly]

Here's the first of two measured drawings for those who are interested, once again the drawing prints on 10 sheets of boarderless 8 1/2 x 11. I still need to do the side profile that will be drawing 2 of 2.

Keep in mind I still need to build it, so please don't consider these measurements final. I already know some things may change a little bit... like the hole locations for the Schaller machine heads based on what the measurements are when I receive them. Since I'm going to build my own bridge, that measurement and location might move a little also

Changes from the last uploaded drawing:
I changed the scale length to 33 1/4
added a 21st fret
changed the pickup cover design a little to make them more sturdy moved the string spacing 2 1/8 at the bridge.

Thanks

 

[CrealBilly]

Drawing 2 of 2 side view - Body is 2: thick, there's a 9 deg body sculpt for the tail piece and the peg head is angled @ 6 deg, pickup covers are 7/16 high, the neck sits 1/2 above the body and the bridge height is adjustable This one prints on 5 sheets of boarderless 8 1/2 x 11 landscape. Please let me know of any gotcha's.

Now I need to do front and back body cavity drawings.

Thanks