Scroll Saw Blades

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Good morning folks - I recently bought a used Dewalt 788 scroll saw from a fellow member. It is a type 1, serial number 58826 manufactured in 1999. I printed off a manual from the internet.

My scrolling skills are next to non-existant so I'm looking for some receommendations for type of blades and source. The only thoing I'm sure of is that the saw uses a 5" plain end blade. At this point I would like to get a range of blades - my plan is to initially use this saw as a small bandsaw/basic scroller. Material will likely range from 1/4" to 1-1/2" and be mdf, plywood and hardwood. So what would be a good range (TPI and width) as a "starter" set of blades.

Also what's a good brand/source - in the past I have used flying dutchmen/Mike's workshop for some limited purchases. Not sure if Klingspor is a good source or not.

Thanks for any thoughts you may have

Rick
 

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
Klingspors carries the Pegas brand which I recommend. Most common size for most cutting is #5, and the MGT and Super Skip are my most used blades. Try #3 and #7 sizes also, 3 for mthinner finer work, and 7 for thicker.
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
Some people like Ford, some like Chevy and others Dodge. Same with scroll saw blades. I used to be a Flying Dutchman fan but now I swear by Pegas. If you talk to Berta she hates Pegas and loves Flying Dutchman. There are also Olsen and a host of other small companies. Klingspor does sell Pegas and might still sell Olsen. Mike's Workshop is still one of the best place to get Flying Dutchman though Mike has long since passed away. My main supplier for Pegas is Art Crafters in Dayton, TN. If you call in your order Denny will be a good help. I do believe he has a sampler. Tell him Scott aka NC Scroller sent you.

 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
For up to 1-1/2" thick in wood like cherry, I really like the Olson 409. Its very fast cutting and leaves a smooth cut. I suspect that Pegas has something close.



1    409 - 1.jpg

1    409 - 2.jpg

1    409 - 3.jpg
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
A lot is going to depend on your machine's rigidity and blade clamping device. On my Delta 40-440 saw, the clamping jaws have been in use for a couple of decades. That's not a track record found on a lot of modern saws. I think my saw isn't well suited for the super fine detail of the really small blades, or at least my skill isn't up to it. I've been using the 409 for all my needs regardless of wood thickness. I don't do those magnificent scroll images like Berta does. My scroll saw is mostly for support for furniture type projects. I've done fewer than 10 projects in my 76 years where the scroll saw was the main tool.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Oh. I just realized who you are.
Yeah, you're no stranger to the Delta scroll saws at all.
As you probably know Bob - I have bought, rebuiolt and sold a number of Deltas thinking I really didn't want or need a scroll saw. I now think there is a place for the scroll saw in, as you said, support of furniture projects. Not wanting to get another rebuild project I decided to pick up the Dewalt and give it a try.

Rick
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Rick, keep us posted on the results of your experience. I see them come up for sale from time to time but have never considered them to have the potential of the Delta 24s for my needs. Maybe there's something I'm missing.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Bob - I will attempt to update this thred as I go along. My choice of a Dewalt was more related to availability, condition and recommendations of lots of scrollers. My experience/skill level is not adequate to compare the dewalt to any other brand. I will say that the Deltas I've had go through my shop were definitely heavier/more robust than the Dewalt.

So moving on the drove over to Klingspors this afternoon and picked up a package of Pegas super skip #3, 5 and 7 blades. I think the top brands of blades are likely very close to equal and that at this point I could not tell if there is a performance difference between them. So in an attempt to get started I chose Pegas because Bruce was first in line with a recommendation :) .

I would be interested in what folks think about their favorite brand - why they like them, why they may be better than others, etc.

Rick
 
Last edited:

Berta

Berta
Corporate Member
Some people like Ford, some like Chevy and others Dodge. Same with scroll saw blades. I used to be a Flying Dutchman fan but now I swear by Pegas. If you talk to Berta she hates Pegas and loves Flying Dutchman. There are also Olsen and a host of other small companies. Klingspor does sell Pegas and might still sell Olsen. Mike's Workshop is still one of the best place to get Flying Dutchman though Mike has long since passed away. My main supplier for Pegas is Art Crafters in Dayton, TN. If you call in your order Denny will be a good help. I do believe he has a sampler. Tell him Scott aka NC Scroller sent you.

Klingspor’s did have Olson blades the last time I was there.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
So I tried a blade in the saw - blade worked fine but as I increased speed the saw seemed to get a lot nosier. Seemed like a banging noise coming from the top arm area. I saw a 4 part you tube series dealing with checking/replacing bearings and bushings. Given that the saw is 20+ years old - would it be a good idea to go through this process? My typical process is to take a new machine completely apart for cleaning/painting/bearing replacement. I was hoping to avoid this process but don't mind doing it.

Second question - I realize that tension is a "learned" skill but what about speed - fast as you can based on the complexity of the cut? Any suggestions from the scrollers?

Thanks
Rick
 

Berta

Berta
Corporate Member
There is a scrollers club that meets at the Klingspor’s in your area. I think they might be back to scrollsaw demos too. The store could give you the times, etc. They can give you some help. You are a bit far for me.
 

Berta

Berta
Corporate Member
So I tried a blade in the saw - blade worked fine but as I increased speed the saw seemed to get a lot nosier. Seemed like a banging noise coming from the top arm area. I saw a 4 part you tube series dealing with checking/replacing bearings and bushings. Given that the saw is 20+ years old - would it be a good idea to go through this process? My typical process is to take a new machine completely apart for cleaning/painting/bearing replacement. I was hoping to avoid this process but don't mind doing it.

Second question - I realize that tension is a "learned" skill but what about speed - fast as you can based on the complexity of the cut? Any suggestions from the scrollers?

Thanks
Rick
I don’t go super fast. I like my saw speed around 75%. Tension is tight enough so when you “pluck” the tightened blade it pings, not plunks. Not much side to side movements. You don’t need to cut fast, I move slowly.
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
So I tried a blade in the saw - blade worked fine but as I increased speed the saw seemed to get a lot nosier. Seemed like a banging noise coming from the top arm area. I saw a 4 part you tube series dealing with checking/replacing bearings and bushings. Given that the saw is 20+ years old - would it be a good idea to go through this process? My typical process is to take a new machine completely apart for cleaning/painting/bearing replacement. I was hoping to avoid this process but don't mind doing it.

Second question - I realize that tension is a "learned" skill but what about speed - fast as you can based on the complexity of the cut? Any suggestions from the scrollers?

Thanks
Rick
I have been running a scroll saw for 20+ year. I have way more that a 1,000 hours in front of a scroll saw. I cut 95% of the time at the top speed. The other 5% is whatever I feel is right for the materials and patterns. Of course when I first started out I probably run at 1/2 speed most of the time so you will be doing some learning. A lot of those 1,000 + hours were with a DW788. I usually had my tension about #3. One warning on a DW788. The clamps are soft cast aluminum and the clamp screws are hard steel. It is very easy to ruin the clamps by over tightening the screws. I highly recommend replacing the OEM clamps with the Pegas clamps for the Dw788.
 

Rick_B

Rick
Corporate Member
Thanks Berta for your thoughts. Scott - can you educate me regarding the Pegas blade clamps - thwey are not cheap so I"m wondering what the advantages are

Thanks
Rick
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
Thanks Berta for your thoughts. Scott - can you educate me regarding the Pegas blade clamps - thwey are not cheap so I"m wondering what the advantages are

Thanks
Rick
Pegas clamps for Dewalt are $64 from Kilngspor if they have them in stock. Or $67.50. from Pegas Scroll Saw and they are running a Sept 11 special (11% off). As I mentioned before the OEM clamps are made of soft cast aluminum. They will spread. It is just a matter of time. When they spread blades will keep slipping from the clamps so you tighten it more and the spread gets worse. The Pegas clamps are machined from harden aluminum bar. Sure they too can spread but you would really need to work at it. The Pegas clamps are also much easier to align so you can eliminate the "hockey stick" hooked ends you can sometimes get especially when using small blades.
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top