scraper chatter

[Hmerkle]

I was working-up a piece of cherry
Finish Planed with #4 - got some tear-out and decided to scrape and got a LOT of chatter. (sorry no pictures)
I was using a #12 Stanley scraper (not mine below - just an example)

It has some figure (kind of a light quilt)

I approached the grain at 30-45 degrees off grain-line, then came from the other direction.
Nothing seemed to help!

I reduced it a little bit by holding (vertically) down on the plane rather than pushing the handles...



Suggestions for correction?

 

[striker]

Maybe switch to a card scraper where you attack the confused grain from all directions with better control and get the chatter out of it.

 

[chris_goris]

Does the blade have a good burr?

 

[golfdad]

One of these should work

 

[Rwe2156]

I would re do the burr. From what I've read, most common causes of chatter in planes is dull blade I'm guessing same is true with scraper but also angle of burr can be a factor.

You could also try using a handheld scraper.

 

[Mike Davis]

Exactly what DrBob said.

 

[Hmerkle]

One of these should work

7 inch long board - your plug-in thingy will not work without more jigs and fixtures....

Originally Posted by chris_goris
Does the blade have a good burr?

I thought it did...
The shavings I was getting were pretty nice...

Originally Posted by Mike Davis
Exactly what DrBob said.

O.K. so - there is a conscientious - I will go back and re-do the burr and see what happens!

 

[KenOfCary]

Switch to a hand held scraper as was mentioned. You'll have more control with funky grain.

Or go back to the #4 if you have one with a high angle frog and very sharp blade.

 

[Jim Wallace]

Try taking a lighter cut, Hank. You might also try using the blade after sharpening but before turning a burr. This is what Lie-nielsen recommends for their scraper plane, although the blade is much thicker than the blade on the Stanley 12.

 

[chris_goris]

Try taking a lighter cut, Hank. You might also try using the blade after sharpening but before turning a burr. This is what Lie-nielsen recommends for their scraper plane, although the blade is much thicker than the blade on the Stanley 12.

Thats why I asked if it had a good burr, Its too thin to work properly (chatter) without one.

 

[Hmerkle]

Switch to a hand held scraper as was mentioned. You'll have more control with funky grain.

Or go back to the #4 if you have one with a high angle frog and very sharp blade.

Thanks -
I do not have a high angle frog - that is why I switched to the scraper (plane tear-out) in some funky grain.
But I was shocked when it chattered...

I thought there was a good sharp burr, but I am rethinking that now...


AND, now want to run an experiment;
1. pull a fresh burr on the scraper in the #12 (see the result)
2. pull a fresh burr on a hand scraper (see the result...)

 

[Mike Davis]

You are not showing your scraper so I have to ask, if it is as vertical as the one in the pic that could be part of the problem.

A lower angle could make a difference.

 

[Hmerkle]

Try taking a lighter cut, Hank. You might also try using the blade after sharpening but before turning a burr. This is what Lie-nielsen recommends for their scraper plane, although the blade is much thicker than the blade on the Stanley 12.

I never had any luck using scraper without a burr pulled, it just seemed to polish or burnish the wood rather than "scrape" (maybe my expectation is wrong???

 

[Hmerkle]

You are not showing your scraper so I have to ask, if it is as vertical as the one in the pic that could be part of the problem.

A lower angle could make a difference.

Good point - I do have it angled, but it can lay down pretty far and still engage the burr...

 

[Jeff]

A few thoughts (assuming you've got a good burr as suggested). In your pic the burr will be facing towards you and the 45 degree blade bevel is on the backside so the plane is pushed away from you like a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper. Correct?

I reduced it a little bit by holding (vertically) down on the plane rather than pushing the handles...

You're headed in this direction...

Grip both ends of the turned handle with each hand, with the two brass adjusting screws oriented toward your body. Place the plane on the wood, with your body directly behind it. Pressing it firmly downward, push it away from your body, and watch 3" wide shaving curl from the wood. Place the shavings in a jar, take them into work, and amaze your pals during deipnosophistic lunchtime banter. Folks will dig you bigtime!
If you find that the tool skips over the wood's surface, you may want to decrease the set just a bit, but before doing that be sure that you're placing sufficient pressure on the tool's toe. You can do this by extending both your first fingers forward and placing them on the main casting, before the blade. Rolling your wrists forward just a bit will place some force on your fingers which in turn puts increased pressure on the toe.

Hock blades are heavier and reduce chatter.

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-HOCKSCR.XX

 

[Phil S]

Try this - tell yourself you deserve it

 

[Hmerkle]

Try this - tell yourself you deserve it
View attachment 18199

Enabler!:widea:

 

[KenOfCary]

Try this - tell yourself you deserve it
View attachment 18199

Or the LN Brass #4 with the high angle frog that you admitted that you don't have. Every new project deserves a new tool.

 

[Hmerkle]

Or the LN Brass #4 with the high angle frog that you admitted that you don't have. Every new project deserves a new tool.

As soon as LN is a NCWW advertiser.... :wwink: