Saw Horses

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Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I "needed" some stable saw horses, as all I had were the collapsible kind which are less than sturdy. For materials I used treated lumber (four ACQ 2 x 4 x 8's, and one 2 x 8 x 8' MCQ made both) and poplar dowels as they will see more outdoor than indoor work. Legs are splayed to both sides and ends by 10 degrees.

The first one was done using no power tools. Therefore, I flattened and squared only the pertinent edges.


As I was a bit concerned about lateral stress on the lap joints, I added some 3/8 dowels at opposing 30 degree angles to mechanically lock them. Dowels were installed after initial glue up. I have not seen this elsewhere, so would like some feedback as to your opinions on durability, etc. Good idea or no?


The second one was made using power and hand tools. Now in the get-r-done mode, just used dowelled lap joints all the way. With my little gar-shop, dragging out tools, emptying planer chips, etc, it took as long to make as the first one, even without the dovetails. (Of course that could also mean I am just slow and weak in both Norm and Neander skills!!) Notice that the end cross braces are now inside the legs. Seems on the first one they interfere with the rip slot! :BangHead::BangHead:


With a coat of some left over sealer from my deck, they are ready for work


Pics of the joint work for the hand tooled one are in my photo gallery. Although I did use screws to hold the legs to the top when getting layout lines for the joints, no metal fasteners are in the final pieces. All joints also glued with TB III.

Thanx for looking. Critiques welcomed.

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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
They look great Mark.

The angled dowels are a great idea. I used half lapped joints with 3/4 inch dowels straight through on my rocking horse rockers and they have held tight for nearly 20 years of hard use. Angled should be even better.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
They look great.:thumbs_up:thumbs_up If I may suggest, put an end rounded 1-1/2" x 5" hand hole in the middles if they're light enough to carry with one hand. It'll make moving them much easier.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Thanks for all the nice comments.

They look great.:thumbs_up:thumbs_up If I may suggest, put an end rounded 1-1/2" x 5" hand hole in the middles if they're light enough to carry with one hand. It'll make moving them much easier.


Good idea: The hand tooled one weighs 22 lbs. The machined one weighs 18 lbs. I guess the extra trips though the thickness planer shaved off more than just irregularities! Actually, the lumber for the machined one was a bit more twisted and warped, so I did take off more wood.

By the way, they are 36" long and 20" high, which is a good height for me for hand sawing as well as comfortable to park on when taking a break.

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