Rust removal update

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chris99z71

New User
Chris
So I got my "new" unisaw all taken apart and cleaned up. For removing the rust fromt he top/wings, I used one of these on my angle grinder:
B00004YMDP.01._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

Here's a before/after:

rustbgone.JPG


It ended up taking alot less elbow grease that I thought it would. I lubed all of the internal workings, bearing, worm gears, and machined surfaces with some 10W30. I bought 3 new belts from Autozone. Now I just need a 220 outlet...
uni1.JPG

uni3.JPG


There's still a little bit of rust on some of the internal parts, but none of it is anywhere that counts, namely in the middle of the up/down and tilt rods. I'm debating taking the whole trunion mechanism out and cleaning that up as well. As it is now, it goes through all it's movements smoothly, quitely and with little effort. (yes, this was a not-so-stealthy gloat:lol:)
 

clowman

*********
Clay Lowman
Corporate Member
How long did it take you to get that top clean? I assuming the center and wings picture is taken for a comparison..
 

chris99z71

New User
Chris
The main top took about 90 min and each wing took about 30-40min. Yes, the pic is just for comparison, they're all clean and smooth as a baby's butt now! I'm debating whether or not to re-assemble the whole thing now. It takes up a whole lot less room with the wings and extension table/fence off.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Your Uni is cleaning up well, and you'll get your 220 circuit someday. But for now you still have the gloat of gloats. That is an awesome piece of saw dust makin' machinery. Dave:)
 

Jonz

New User
Chris Jones
If I had it down that far and couldn't use it anyway, I would go ahead and clean it all. Rust sucks.

I can only speak for myself, but once I had the wings on, the fence in place and was using it, chances are I would never get to the stuff on the inside. Now would be my chance if it was going to happen.
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
Chris, Your saw is looking great. Did you ever get a copy of the Owner's manual for it? I think you will find that there is not a whole lot of wood out there that is going to be able to slow that 5 HP motor down. That is one nice machine.

Oh yeah...............you still SUCK!!!!!:lol:
D L
 

chris99z71

New User
Chris
I agree, I'm going to clean up the rest of the guts. Yes, DL, I did find a manual under the part number 36-930. It seems to be the correct one. I also found a parts list for it. The only part that I need for it is the guard/splitter support rod that sticks out the back and the bracket that clamps on to it. Those 3 part go for $114 through delta servicenet. Ouch. I think i'll either get creative or keep looking...
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
Chris, what are the part numbers for the guard and rod you need? I still have a brand new one that came with my 3 hp Unisaw laying around the shop still wrapped in plastic. I am willing to bet it might be the same guard/rod that came with saw. Maybe we can work a deal.:icon_thum

D L
 

chris99z71

New User
Chris
DL, sounds like we may have a plan here...

Look at the manual here. If you go down and look at the lower left most picture on page 8, I need the rod and brackets (2pcs) on the end of the rod. I show part numbers of 422040140018 and 9 for the brackets and 42204089003 for the support rod.
I've never used a guard on a TS in my life, it's just that the kickback forces on a 5hp saw scare the sh*t out of me!
 

SteveColes

Steve
Corporate Member
Just in case, for $114, you can get a merlin splitter which I believe contains the replacment parts you need, plus a better splitter,etc
 
M

McRabbet

And I would suggest using a set of Board Buddies when ripping stock. They are under $40 and work well. A dovetail fixture is also available to mount on some fences. See them at http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G2370. A good safety item in lieu of the blade guard that needs to come off all too often.
G2370.jpg



SteveColes said:
Just in case, for $114, you can get a merlin splitter which I believe contains the replacment parts you need, plus a better splitter,etc
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Chris,

I have also been looking at used Unisaws to make the jump up to a cabinet saw someday. All of the ones I have seen have been 3HP single phase or 5HP three phase. Is yours 5HP single phase? I'm sure 3HP is more than I'll ever need but I was just curious.
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Great work Chris, but we're NOT sympathetic to your parts problem. You can't make a gloat and a whine in the same post ;-)

I, too, would complete the clean up before reassembling. Once you go to the trouble of aligning table with blade, leveling wings, etc., you won't be anxious to repeat the process until necessary. And if you haven't already done it, be sure to check all the internal hex screws and bolts.

Enviously,
Sapwood
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
chris99z71 said:
DL, sounds like we may have a plan here...

Look at the manual here. If you go down and look at the lower left most picture on page 8, I need the rod and brackets (2pcs) on the end of the rod. I show part numbers of 422040140018 and 9 for the brackets and 42204089003 for the support rod.
I've never used a guard on a TS in my life, it's just that the kickback forces on a 5hp saw scare the sh*t out of me!

Chris, sorry about the delayed response. I am showing the same part numbers in the parts list for my 3 hp Unisaw. Is the rod and brackets all you need, or are you looking for the entire guard/splitter/bracket assembly? I have it all.

SteveColes has a good point that there are better splitter options out there. So make sure you take a look at those options also. After looking, if you are still interested in the original parts just let me know and we will see what we can work out.

D L
 

b4man

New User
Barbara
Chris,

I just read through the thread and noticed Steve D's remark about single phase vs 3 phase. I don't know where you got this Uni and btw, you did a great job on refinishing the top! However, my concern is the "phase issue. 3 phase shouldn't be confused with 2 pole, meaning 240volts. Most residential services are only single phase, 120/240 service. Industrial applications are often 3 phase to reduce power consumption with a 277v side, ie amps. If, this saw has a 3 phase motor you will need to consider replacing it or having your power company supply 3 phase service and the later is not usually a good option.
I hope I haven't over stepped but you guys need to remember when you buy from auctions and such whether it be machinery or light fixtures, check the phase as well as the voltage.
Good luck and I pray it's not 277.
Barbara
 

chris99z71

New User
Chris
Yup, the uni is definately single phase. However, the radial arm saw that I bought at the same time is 3 phase. That's why it's up for sale. I knew it was 3 phase when I bought it, but for the price I couldn't refuse...
 
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