Router questions

[Sp00ks]

Getting back into woodworking after a decade or so hiatus. I have an old Craftsman router and I've hated that thing since day 1. So I'm starting to think about my router setup. Honestly, I don't really find myself needing/using a router very often. I'm sure that will change soon.

I am planning a table saw extension wing router table to save space. I'm looking hard at the Triton 3.25 hp for that application with maybe a Kreg table insert. I don't want to put $700 in a router setup and I think this would fit the bill.

Question: I am also looking at a palm router, probably the Bosch. I'll probably grab one of these first for simple round overs and chamfers. Do I need the plunge attachment with a palm router? How much would I use the plunge base?

Looking for some suggestions from those more experienced than I.

 

[cpw]

Do I need the plunge attachment with a palm router? How much would I use the plunge base?

I am not sure anyone will be able to answer that for you beyond giving examples of how they use one. It all depends on what kind of work you do. If you're just going to use it as a laminate trimmer or for doing roundovers, probably not, but a plunge base could be very handy for doing rabbets, dadoes, and grooves, keyholes and the like.

 

[Sp00ks]

I am not sure anyone will be able to answer that for you beyond giving examples of how they use one. It all depends on what kind of work you do. If you're just going to use it as a laminate trimmer or for doing roundovers, probably not, but a plunge base could be very handy for doing rabbets, dadoes, and grooves, keyholes and the like.

Thank you, That actually helped a lot. I supposed if I purchased it, I would have it, needed or not.

 

[TENdriver]

The Bosch has a good reputation.

I noticed HD Ridgid has theirs on sale with their finish sander for $99 which is a really good deal if you need both items.

 

[JohnW]

Jerry, FWIW I have all 3 routers you mention in OP. The Triton is a good economical choice for using in a table. It has the "poor mans" above table crank lift and has been a work horse for me. The Bosch palm router has also performed well. I use it primarily for inlay work and delicate edge trimming. My main consideration in choosing it was how well it felt in my hand. I do not use a plunge attachment with it. But I do have a Dewalt 2.25 Dewalt with plunge base if a plunge is ever needed.

I highly recommend the Triton and Bosch. I never use the Craftman.

 

[Rwe2156]

My Hitachi died and I got the 3 1/4 HP Triton with the Kreg insert. I really think you need a 3HP router for a table. The first time you run a raised panel bit you will see why.

So far, I've been extremely pleased. The height adjustment is good enough so no expensive router lift.

I am not happy with the Kreg insert. The rings are plastic and when released, have to be pried up to remove because the ring wrench won't grip the holes.

I am planning to replace/rebuild my whole router set up one way or the other I am going to get the Sommerfeld table and fence system. His tables come predrilled for Tritons and are sized 27 X 31 which matches the depth of most table saws and bolt right to the wing.

Personally I've never seen the need for a plunge on a palm router. All I ever use mine for is laminate trimming or chamfer & roundovers. I have an older model DW which I do not like at all.

If I buy another one, it will probably be the Rigid. I've had good luck with their other tools & I'm really liking the height adjustment feature.

Good luck. Hope this helps!

 

[Sp00ks]

My Hitachi died and I got the 3 1/4 HP Triton with the Kreg insert. I really think you need a 3HP router for a table. The first time you run a raised panel bit you will see why.

So far, I've been extremely pleased. The height adjustment is good enough so no expensive router lift.

I am not happy with the Kreg insert. The rings are plastic and when released, have to be pried up to remove because the ring wrench won't grip the holes.

I am planning to replace/rebuild my whole router set up one way or the other I am going to get the Sommerfeld table and fence system. His tables come predrilled for Tritons and are sized 27 X 31 which matches the depth of most table saws and bolt right to the wing.

Personally I've never seen the need for a plunge on a palm router. All I ever use mine for is laminate trimming or chamfer & roundovers. I have an older model DW which I do not like at all.

If I buy another one, it will probably be the Rigid. I've had good luck with their other tools & I'm really liking the height adjustment feature.

Good luck. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the feedback on the Kreg insert. That Sommerfield table looks very nice albeit more than I want to spend right now.

I have the Rigid r4512 table saw and I'm mostly happy with it. That is the only Rigid tool I own.

Thanks for your feedback.

 

[Matt Furjanic]

For light duty and doing inlays, the Bosch colt stands out. I have two of them. The plunge base is handy and not expensive, Especially if you plan to do any inlay work. This little router has plenty of power for moulding edges and smaller dado work. I highly recommend it.

 

[Matt Furjanic]

https://youtu.be/gFeT2ss1t28

Here's a link to a review I did on the Bosch Colt plunge base...

 

[Sp00ks]

For light duty and doing inlays, the Bosch colt stands out. I have two of them. The plunge base is handy and not expensive, Especially if you plan to do any inlay work. This little router has plenty of power for moulding edges and smaller dado work. I highly recommend it.

Nice, thank you. I enjoyed the review video as well.

It sounds like I'm on the right track. I think I'll pick up the palm/trim router first and get the big router a little later down the road. I think for now I would get more use out of the smaller router.

I also need a thickness planer so I'm trying to figure out my priorities.

 

[nn4jw]

One thing to consider with the Bosch Colt and most palm/trim routers is that it has a 1/4" chuck. Full size routers these days mostly have 1/2" chucks though some, if not all, have both 1/4" and 1/2" collets like my Bosch 1617EVSPK. I only toss that out because it can affect your choices on router bits. I very much prefer 1/2" bits in full size routers over 1/4" bits. I only have the necessary 1/4" bits for the Colt and mainly use the 1617.

 

[golfdad]

Jerry I have had my big Triton in my router table for 9 years and made hundreds of cabinet doors among other things. Great bang for your buck. A Bosch trim router is also a good very good purchase as is the Ridgid

 

[Sp00ks]

One thing to consider with the Bosch Colt and most palm/trim routers is that it has a 1/4" chuck. Full size routers these days mostly have 1/2" chucks though some, if not all, have both 1/4" and 1/2" collets like my Bosch 1617EVSPK. I only toss that out because it can affect your choices on router bits. I very much prefer 1/2" bits in full size routers over 1/4" bits. I only have the necessary 1/4" bits for the Colt and mainly use the 1617.

Yep, understood. My old craftsman was 1/4" only. I agree with everything you have stated here. This is basically my plan. I have a good source for bits/blades. Thank you for your reply.

 

[BrianBDH]

I put a router in my table saw extension too. For years I used a Craftsman plunge router. But recently I bought a almost never used Porter Cable router and a Jessem Rout r lift. Only used it a few times, but the control of depth is very welcome.

So my set up was about $300 total.

BTW - you are welcome to this router insert. It has a few holes in it, but I don't have a use for it now. I don't remember the brand but it came from Woodcraft.

Brian

 

[Sp00ks]

BTW - you are welcome to this router insert. It has a few holes in it, but I don't have a use for it now. I don't remember the brand but it came from Woodcraft.

Brian

I would be most grateful for the insert Brian. Thank you for the info. I have looked at Jessem and if I do the lift thing, I'll likely go that way.

 

[JimD]

The routers I use are two PC 690s (4 bases including plunge), Bosch Colt (no plunge base), and a Ryobi R-500 (motor only in my router table). I also have a Craftsman in a drawer somewhere. My router table has a homemade screw adjustable depth and tilting top (for bit changes). I got the idea from an old American Woodworker article and adapted it to a router table styled after Norm's (NYW). I have a router table setup in my table saw extension table and it works fine but gets in the way of table saw use. The bosch colt collet slips sometimes but otherwise it has been fine. I blame the slippage on me pushing it past the collets capability. The motor has more power than the collet has grip. For LITTLE roundovers and chamfers it works great. I think most people would be better served by a mid-size router first, preferably a multi base set. I've built raised panel doors with the PC690 and used it for the same stuff the Colt gets used for now. It's nice to have bigger and smaller but a mid-size is the most versatile. It has 1/4 and 1/2 collets. Panel raising takes an extra "bite" but it will do it. Bosch reportedly makes a good mid-sized but all the brands are OK from the reviews I've read.

 

[junquecol]

Have you considered putting router in LEFT wing on table saw? This way, feed direction is the same as for ripping, plus right side of saw can be against wall. You don't have to walk around table saw to do routing. Your TS fence can serve your router, or you could build another fence, with DC, just for router