Router Lesson Learned The Hard Way

Wiley's Woodworks

Wiley
Corporate Member
My router lift in my table is made of aluminum, as many (most?) are. When I changed bits without realizing it I rotated the steel wrench against the edge of the flat plate where the large round plate screws in. It created a tiny burr that wasn't visible. When I ran my round table top over the router table, the burr created a slight but visible indentation in the table top, resulting in a whole bunch of wavy lines that looked like I neglected to sand the surface at all. Really looked like sloppy work, and that's not me. Luckily I ran the piece top up, so the scratches were on the bottom side. This meant I didn't have to resand perfectly the whole top. Lesson learned: be careful when you change bits or collets.

While I'm at it I'm having major problems with severe tearout when I run curved table legs (think curves like a French curve drafting template) and transition from running with the grain into end grain. I've tried free handing close to the template and then making a 2nd pass on the roller bearing. It helped but didn't cure. Can I run my working piece backwards into the bit so the blades are pushing the end grain of the wood back into itself? Thanks.
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
You can run backwards but you will need a firm grip on the work piece. It will tend to pull it out of your hands. You can also use the bump method. Your basically do a series of bump cuts and then route away the high spots in the normal direction.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I agree with what Fred said 100%. I would also add that whenever you do a climb cut - cut the "wrong" direction - you want to make as light a cut as possible. The more you try to cut off this way the more the router tries to tear the workpiece from your hand.
 

Martin Roper

Martin
Senior User
I've seen several people on YouTube say that compression bits are good for that:
Whiteside bits are made here in NC. It would be cool to see if we could get a group tour of their facility sometime.

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JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
I've seen several people on YouTube say that compression bits are good for that:
My experience is a compression bit nearly eliminates tear-out on the top and bottom surfaces, since it's essentially a down bits on each side. But the center of the edge can still tear - really depends on the wood type, angle of attack and feed rate. On the CNC, I use a climb cut to greatly reduce edge tear-out since it has the control to handle it.
 

Tim Sherwood

Tim
Corporate Member
I just had the same tearout problem Wiley. I used a template to shape a couple of chair legs. This is my first chair . I'm making one simple craftsman style as a learning project. When I finally get ready for the production run of eight, I,ll make a sled to hold the legs more firmly. Then I'll feel more secure making those climb cuts to minimize the grain tearout.

It looks like a compression bit could be worth a try. Klingspor's bits are Whiteside. They probably have one.

This is the reason you see a lot of experienced chairmakers shaping legs with hand tools.
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
I used bump cuts a lot with changing grain, followed by a climb cut. The bump cuts prevented the cutter from biting in and taking the workpiece out of my hands. When circles or ellipsis, I'd always use a compression bit.
 

Martin Roper

Martin
Senior User
Whiteside bits are made here in NC. It would be cool to see if we could get a group tour of their facility sometime.

I inquired with Whiteside and received this response:

Thank you for reaching out and for your support. Unfortunately, we are keeping our facility closed for tours right now to ensure our workers remain safe as they continue their work during the pandemic. We do have a front office window that is utilized for processing and picking up orders.

Thank you for your understanding as we try to maintain a safe and healthy workspace.

Sincerely,

Zeb Whiteside

Maybe we can address this later when conditions improve.
 

Boomvader

Rich
Senior User
I live not too far from Whiteside. Has anyone dealt with them directly for bits? Is it worth the trip?
 

bowman

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
I live not too far from Whiteside. Has anyone dealt with them directly for bits? Is it worth the trip?
They have donated to our raffles in the past. As far as going there in person, I have not.
 

Warped Woodwerks

.
Senior User
Hookedonwood (Dennis)... He does China Tools/Reviews.

He did a review on Banggood's router bits.

Watch that video and see what you think.

I have 3 of those bits in my cart, but all of a sudden, the (2) for $31 - $34 each ran back up to the $60's range.

Keep your eyes open, and if you decide to buy, make sure they are on sale. I think $30 - $40 would be a great price to pay for each vs the $$$$ Whiteside bits that run double\triple?

I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH THE ABOVE MENTIONED BANGGOOD BITS.. so please research those bits for yourself.

I DO have a few Whiteside and I like them, but right now I am finding it a little hard to swallow their $120++ for the bits I want and am thinking about these Banggood bits instead.

Regardless, I hope Wiley's scratched wood issue gets resolved without issue...
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
I have a couple of the Banggood bits. They work just fine....To Freds point - rough in and get close. Then the last cut should be taking off about 1/16 or so with the climb cut taking almost nothing 1/64 ish. I used to make plaques for my mom's art gallery. That was how I minimized the tearout. Not always successful but close.
 

Martin Roper

Martin
Senior User
I bought a few Banggood items, including a few router bits, but I've decided that from now on I'm going to buy as few things made in China as humanly possible.
 

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