Ridgid 14" Band saw repair

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DaveT

New User
Dave Tenhoeve
I have a Ridgid 14" BS14002 on which the tension assembly broke. I ordered a replacement no problem. The piece the broke was the arm that holds the shaft for the wheel. I was able to put the new tension assembly on the saw with no problem. What I can't do now is to get the M12 nut off the old assembly shaft. I thought I'd just order a new nut from the ridgidparts where I got the tension assembly from, but it's been discontinued. So I went to Fastenal and they ordered one for me. Well neither the left hand or right hand thread nuts will thread on to the new shaft. Does any one have any idea how I could get the old nut off so I can put the wheel back on the saw? I wasn't really planning on replacing this saw any time soon.
 

DaveT

New User
Dave Tenhoeve
It might, I hadn't thought of heat. It's stuck pretty tight, no movement.

This is the nut and shaft as it is now.
20161015_120454_001.jpg
This pic is what was left of the arm when I started pulling it out. The shaft goes in the arm. I was able to knock the shaft out with a punch.
20161015_120622.jpg

And this is the new tension assembly and shaft

20161015_120346.jpg
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
I wonder if there's some locktite in there... Heat will undo that in a hurry.

Be careful with the heat though as you do not want to alter the temper and soften the steel since it is a shaft subjected to heavy loading. Warm is fine, but avoid getting it hot, you can also try preferentially chilling the bolt while keeping the nut warm (use dry ice or canned air with the can held upside down).

You may wish to try soaking it overnight, perhaps even several days, in penetrating oil to try and facilitate loosening of the night. Your next challenge will be adequately clamping the bolt since it has no head, but you will need a good clamp and something very grippy, but tough (like some reinforced silicone or rubber drawe mats), to hold it tight in the jaws of your clamp. Then, when it comes to getting a stuck nut loose you are best using an impact wrench (with impact rated sockets), either electric or pneumatic (if you have an adequate air compressor), as they can deliver far greater torque into the nut to break it loose than anything that applies a continuous force (like you) will ever be able to without the bolt spinning too much.

Good luck!
 

BWSmith

New User
BW
Just to be clear...

Both,the shaft and nut are to be reused?

Look at the nut for some very slight depressions.Sometimes manufacturing dictates that nuts need to be mechanically fastened.Old school was by "staking" a series of punch marks locking the nut/bolt threads together.That's yesteryear,today it's done hydraulically....so the depression is slighter,but still visible.

If the above,good luck,Rigid doesn't want it off.Rosin or powdered sugar,sprinkled on some HARD wood blocks which are drilled,then split.To hold the shaft.Throw it in a hyd H frame press,hit nut with an impact.
 

DaveT

New User
Dave Tenhoeve
Had a chance to try some heat earlier this evening, it didn't budge. I have soaking in some penetrating oil now. I'll give it a couple of days and try again. Thanks for the suggestions.

Thanks
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
If you are the ORIGINAL owner, and filled out the LSA then let Ridgid fix it. Because it's a straight shaft, you could have another made if it's not available.
 

nn4jw

New User
Jim
If you don't need to reuse the shaft, just the nut you might try this. Clamp the nut in a vise. Then use a large pipe wrench on the shaft to try to break it loose. A pipe wrench used properly is designed to grip more as pressure is put on it. It just might grip that shaft tight enough and give you enough leverage to break the nut loose.
 

DaveD

New User
Dave
Well something isn't M12 if the new nut(s) won't thread on the new shaft.
so...to get the old nut off the old shaft
First decide if it's a left or right hand thread.
Then try to turn it in the 'correct' direction. Heat the nut up with a propane touch if you have to. Doesn't need to get red hot.

You can also take the new assembly to a 'real' hardware store, one that has those little boxes of bolts/nuts/fasteners, and find a nut that fits. Maybe even a auto parts store since you said it was metric.

The problem with clamping the old nut in a vise is you are just adding to your problem because the vise is adding clamping pressure.
 

nn4jw

New User
Jim
The problem with clamping the old nut in a vise is you are just adding to your problem because the vise is adding clamping pressure.

You only need to tighten the vise enough to hold the nut in place, not so much that you crush it.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Gripe the nut in a vise, then using hack saw, saw ALMOST thru nut to shaft. Place shaft on solid surface, then using cold chisel split the nut off shaft. You may need to run a die over shaft to clean up threads before installing new nut. I will be home on Saturday morning if you want to bring it over and have me take a shot at it for you. I'm located west of Holly Springs, just off US1. This is a good reason to buy a "nut splitter." M-12 nuts come in more than one pitch, FYI. Town and Country Hardware at Cary Parkway carries a good asortment of metric nuts Bruce.
 

DIYGUY

New User
Mark
Have you considered a nut splitter? You can pick one up for ~$20 or so. Shame for a tool you will likely use only once in a lifetime, but you might get something back if you list on CL ...
 

Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
if you can hold the bolt steady drill it out until the remainder can compress. you might tap on the nut during the soaking period. if the nut is galled, it will strip the thrids whether soaked or heated.
 

DaveT

New User
Dave Tenhoeve
I think I'm about to give up on this and have almost convinced myself it's time to upgrade. I've been looking at the Laguna 14-12 or a Grizzly 17". If anyone wants the Ridgid for parts, etc. you're welcome to it.
 
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