Resorcinol glue

[Robb Parker]

I built some cabinets, hatches and doors for a yacht a few years ago and used resorcinol glue for the teak with good results. Have another teak job but can't find resorcinol glue. DAP no longer manufactures and can't find any others. Anyone know of a supplier or an alternative they've used.
Thanks
Robb

 

[Woodman2k]

Robb,
call a boat repair supply house ,alot of those chemicals are now controlled as to who can buy them. Somebody told me awhile back that they were having a hard time finding the good two part epoxies for repairing boat hulls. I'll check in work tomorrow.
Greg

 

[FlyingRon]

Resorcinol was been widely supplanted by the epoxies. The last guys I knew using resorcinol were the guys building wooden airplane props. Both my marine and aviation distributors don't seem to have it anymore either.

 

[scsmith42]

I built some cabinets, hatches and doors for a yacht a few years ago and used resorcinol glue for the teak with good results. Have another teak job but can't find resorcinol glue. DAP no longer manufactures and can't find any others. Anyone know of a supplier or an alternative they've used.
Thanks
Robb

Rob, Aircraft Spruce and Supply still sells it under the trade name "Cascophen". You can get it in pints, quarts or gallons.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/cascophen.php

 

[Robb Parker]

Scott, Greg and Ron- Thanks! Just entered order Scott. Hopefully they have it in stock! Only adhesive I know that'll glue oily teak, strong and totally water proof. Guess it's the formyldehyde issue why not still readily available. Thanks again.
Robb

 

[Tarhead]

For future reference http://www.smithandcompany.org/TropicalHardwoodEpoxy/ is what some of the Luthiers use on Cocobolo and other Rosewoods. It was developed for the Sailboat crowd for Teak and tropical hardwoods. They also have http://www.glueoakandteak.com/ for Teak which cures down to 28f. They suggest NOT to use Acetone and other solvents before or after using their Epoxies for the best results:

"Solvent-cleaning wood before or after gluing
Do not use solvents to “clean” oily hardwoods before gluing. The solvents are absorbed by the wood and will cause the epoxy bond to the wood to fail.
Even solvent cleaning hardwoods after gluing (while the glue is still wet) has in some cases, caused glue-line failures. Wiping up drips with paper towels is safe. These comments apply not only to our glues, but to any glue on any wood.
Some manufacturers of glues that do not bond well to oily hardwoods, due to their incompatibility with the natural oils of wood, invented the idea of solvent-cleaning the wood so their products would stick to the wood. That is the origin of this idea. It is a bad idea, because solvents are absorbed into the wood, and take a LONG time to diffuse out and evaporate. Those solvents will be absorbed by the glue itself, and when the glue cures, it will be weakened by the high solvent content right where the glue contacts the wood. In effect, much of the glue is bonding to solvents instead of to the wood, and such glue-joints come back apart rather easily. That’s why solvent-cleaning wood or applying solvent-containing products to good-quality wood that has any reasonable amount of strength is a bad idea."

 

[Robb Parker]

Thanks Mark, saved your links. Got comfirmation from Scotts suggestion that it shipped! Thanks again Scott. Not cheap though 135.00 including shipping for gallon. Guess cheap for peace of mind.
Robb

 

[Jeff]

Truly waterproof glues must meet the Type I standard; that includes resorcinol, epoxy, and TB III. TiteBond II is water resistant, not waterproof.

West Systems epoxy is really good stuff IMHO. There's lots of ways to mix and match their products to meet your specific needs and applications.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

 

[petebucy4638]

The WEST epoxy system for building boats is still available and in wide use today.

 

[jlwest]

I have used Dap 00204 Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue with success.