Resawing

[HarveyDunn]

I make wood boxes, currently by hand. I'm researching setting up a real shop sometime next year. I love the continuous grain look, so resawing is going to be important to me. So important, in fact, that I'm toying with the idea of not getting a table saw, and making the band saw the center of my workspace. And if I do skip the table saw...well that is more money I could put to a top of the line band saw.

I have some specific questions, but I'd also be happy to receive any general advice anyone has to offer.

I'd like to stick with 110V if at all possible.

First question is: what's the relationship between the size of the band saw and the maximum size of board it can resaw? Or is the HP the more important specification?

Also, for those of you who resaw: do you recommend cleaning up the just-sawn face between each pass? Can I do this on a thickness planer, or does it have to be on a jointer? (BTW, that is another tool I'm thinking of skipping).

And, finally, are there big variations in the time required to change the blade, and in the quality of the fence, among the different brands? I do love a good fence...

PS: Also, I like the technique of building a box carcass, closed up on all 6 sides, and then slicing it open in order to create the bottom and the lid. Mostly because that keeps the grain matching going. I have only ever done this in a class, on a table saw, using multiple passes. And, as I said at the beginning, I'm thinking about not getting a table saw. I assume that it would work on a band saw - and in a single pass too boot! Am I missing anything? Seems to me that since the interior of the box is empty space, this should go lickety-split.

 

[ScottM]

From my limit experience most 14" or smaller saw can't handle a good 3/4" resaw blade. They don not have the power even when wired as 220v. You have to use 1/2" blades. The smaller blade the more subject to blade drift. With that said I have a 14" grizzly with riser kit and using a 1/2" blade I have resawed wood 8" or less usually without issues. You just have to take your time. I do my cleanup with the planer. Hope that helps.

 

[Jeff]

No bandsaw experience here. There is a good review and video at FWW, #193, July 2007 by Tom McKenna titled: "New Breed of Bandsaws".

They're all 14 inch models and 6/8 tested operate at 110-115 v. All performed well resawing 10" w hard maple using a 1/2" 3 tpi hook tooth blade. The prices are affordable for a solidly built machine.

 

[redknife]

Lots of good questions. I'll try to tackle some of them.
I am happy with my 110v Rikon 10-325 for resawing wood less than 8 inches. More height might be OK, just happen to use wood stock that size. I think that while the bandsaws have maximum wood dimensions stated limits by the manufacturer, it is best viewed as a continuum from "you will struggle" to "quite fine". The power of the machine, machine structure, machine tuning, blade selection, blade sharpness, and wood characteristics being some of the factors.
Would you need to limit yourself to 110v? If you want the bandsaw to be a focus of the shop long term, you may revisit that limit. One of the nice things about starting with a bandsaw and seeing if you can go without a table saw is that it forces you to learn the nuance of using a bandsaw better. There are reasons that so many consider a table saw essential, but the nice thing is you could decide for yourself after learning the bandsaw (which takes time).
On blade change and fence: There are differences in machines. Conversely, I found that the better I understood the machine and how to tune the machine, the faster the blade change. Difficult to interpret people's comments on changing blades on their machines.
I replaced my fence with a Magfence by carter. One of the unique issues with bandsaw fences is accommodating drift.
Good luck..

 

[HarveyDunn]

Thanks. Is it common to replace the manufacturer's fence with an after-market product?

I am probably going to be renting my workspace, and keeping it all 110V would make the search a lot easier.

 

[HarveyDunn]

Thanks for the heads up on that article. I'm a member and so was able to get the PDF of it from the their archive. The differences in the time it takes to resaw are amazing.

 

[zapdafish]

I saw this posting on sawmill that looked like a pretty cool jig that could be adapted to cutting the tops off of enclosed boxes.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?198119-Kerf-Saw-for-Guiding-Re-Sawing

 

[HarveyDunn]

OMG! From the article Jeff recommended, check out the video of this uber-cool sled they built!!!
http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/evaluating-a-14-in-bandsaw.aspx

 

[HarveyDunn]

Thanks zapdafish, sadly I have to wait for a moderator to approve my registration on that board to be able to see the pictures, but I'll be looking forward to that.

 

[wdkits1]

Hi Harvey
I got my Delta 14" Bandsaw in 1993 with the riser block and factory fence. I was doing resawing for intarsia kit jewelry boxes. I soon replaced the stock 1/2 HP motor with a 1hp . I run a 3/4" 3 TPI blade. Using this set-up I have no problem resawing up to 12" with a sharp blade--just take your time. I have made hundreds of sequentially cut boxes and do the lid separation as you describe. . I resaw my box stock allowing a 1/16" and plane it to the correct thickness. I don't have a table saw in my shop( don't have a need for one) as I find the bandsaw is much more versatile for the types of work I do.

 

[HarveyDunn]

Thanks, wdkits1. Can I ask how you dimension your wood - do you do it all on the bandsaw? What about joinery? I'm wondering if a band saw and a miter saw are all I need for now.

 

[wdkits1]

Harvey
I have a 6" Delta Jointer, 12 1/2" delta planer and 12" Dewalt Compound Miter saw.I use the jointer , bandsaw and planer to get my stock to the proper dimensions. I have made resaw jigs, tenoning jigs, dowel making jigs , etc for the bandsaw . Such a versatile tool when properly tuned.

 

[BKind2Anmls]

I think, for what you are doing, getting a really good band saw in lieu of a table saw is an excellent idea. I had my table saw for a couple of years before I got my band saw. Once I got the band saw it was like, "Where have you been all of my life?"

 

[kclark]

OMG! From the article Jeff recommended, check out the video of this uber-cool sled they built!!!
http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/evaluating-a-14-in-bandsaw.aspx

Anybody seen a plan for that sled. That is cool.

 

[wwidmer]

...I'd like to stick with 110V if at all possible.

First question is: what's the relationship between the size of the band saw and the maximum size of board it can resaw? Or is the HP the more important specification?

At 110V on a 15A circuit you will be limited to 1HP motor max. At 110V on a 20A circuit you could go up as high as 1.5 HP as these typically draw 17-18A at 110-120V.

Band saws are typically rated by blade the throat/frame capacity. A 14" band saw has ~14" distance between the blade and frame and usually 6" in height between the table and upper blade guide. On some you can get a riser block to install which raises the table to guide distance to 12" and this table to guide distance is the absolute limiter in determining resaw capacity. With a 1 HP motor and sharp blade you should be able to do what you want. If you want to use a 3/4" blade on a 14" saw, make sure the saw has a stout frame and blade tension spring that can handle it. As mentioned earlier most 14" saws struggle with anything larger than 1/2", but a 1/2" well tuned blade should work fine. I would stay away from machines with 3 or more wheel and go with the 2 wheel style as they tend to have a sturdier/stiffer frame. I would not rule out getting an older/used Delta, Walker Turner or Powermatic machine if you can find one near you on Craigslist or other site.

If you will be doing a lot of resawing you are going to want a custom fence.

Good luck in your purchase& may it bring you many smiles - Bill

 

[Mark Gottesman]

Anybody seen a plan for that sled. That is cool.

Quote from Fine woodworking Forum.

"Anyone doing much resawing would have an interest." That sled was designed by John White for the resaw tests they were doing, and the subject came up at another forum, so I wrote to him in the Experts section of FWW.com asking about a plan for it. His response indicates it's not practical for normal resaw use.
"To be honest, the sled is cumbersome to use, requires several minutes to set up and adjust, and the stock being sawn needs to be screwed onto the carriage from behind with brass screws that will get sawn off during the last few cuts if you are going to use all of the stock. It isn't a practical design for day to day use, doesn't offer any real advantage over resawing by hand, and it has relatively limited capacity. It is however a blast to watch."

Not that this should stop you, just so you consider the pros and cons.

 

[BKind2Anmls]

Regarding the resaw sled...

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fwn-experts/john-white/automatic-resaw-sled-design




Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[McRabbet]

The sled should be easy to make -- just stop the video at key locations and you should be able to figure it out. I've done that and may try to draw up some plans in SketchUp to make one myself. Despite the comments by John White, I think it could be a good addition to a resaw sled setup for a bandsaw. Rather than using brass screws from the back to hold the stock, I think it is feasible to use a thin edge stop on the infeed side of the stock being cut and an adjustable stop pressing into the push side of the stock. A few sharp pins in the stops should hold the stock securely; the stops need to be fairly thin so one can cut to about 1/4" of the full board thickness. One key aspect is the runner John put in the base of the sliding section to keep it perpendicular to the direction of stock travel when adjusting for cut thickness.