Remote control for dust collector

[red]

A great addition to my workshop. I just purchase this dust collector remote control system for 220V and just want to pass along that it works great and is very convenient to have the remote hooked on my tool belt. Saves a lot of walking around to turn on/off the dust collector. I am using it with a Grizzly G0548ZP 2HP dust collector.

Red

 

[chris_goris]

Is it RF or Infrared control? I just installed an IR control on mine too...

 

[Grimmy2016]

Can you supply the full name and model number so I can search it online? Thanks

 

[chris_goris]

I have one of these at home that is hardwired to blast gates in 110v if anyone is interested, Id like ot get rid of it

 

[red]

It comes with just a simple remote so I'm guessing RF.

I purchased it on Amazon. Just search Fulton Dust Collector Remote Control System for 220V Dust Collectors.

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[chris_goris]

Looking at this unit, it just goes inline with the DC power? Im guessing you have a mechanical on/off switch on your DC and not a magnetic starter?.

 

[red]

I leave the dust collector switch on and plug the dust collector into this remote unit. Works great.

Red

 

[chris_goris]

I leave the dust collector switch on and plug the dust collector into this remote unit. Works great.

Red

Yes, these only work for under 2HP units with mechanical switches. For larger units, you need a remote controlled mag switch, thats what I had to use. They cost considerably more but still worth it.

 

[red]

This one is good up to 3HP.

Red

 

[Dave Richards]

Very nice. I built one from a heavy duty relay and one of those inexpensive remotes that was designed for Christmas lights or something. Yours looks nicer than mine.

 

[sawman101]

For 110v system, the largest capacity switch is good to 1 1/2 h.p. My DC is a HF 2 h.p. I can attest to the fact that such remote control switches will work, for awhile. I thin k my Jet remote made it 9 or 10 months. I remember McRabbet (Rob) said there is a way to wire up a cheap Lowes remote switch so that it will handle the startup load, which is considerable. Maybe I should send him a note asking about the set up again. It would be much easier, and cheaper than to run 220 v out to the DC room.

 

[sawman101]

Very nice. I built one from a heavy duty relay and one of those inexpensive remotes that was designed for Christmas lights or something. Yours looks nicer than mine.

For the technically challenged, could you tell us how to do that Dave?

 

[Dave Richards]

I just went out to the shop to take some pictures. Here's the outside of it. The box is larger than it needs to be but I had it on hand and it has a weather tight seal which keep the dust out.


And a view of the inside.


The receiver (circuit board) is pulled out of the box from the original thingy which looks like this although the remote only has one button. The receiver is AC powered. The output of it--which was attached to the receptacle in the original box is connected to the actuator of the relay. When the thing is activated, the current to the dust collector motor goes through the heavy duty contacts in the relay so the little relay on the receiver doesn't carry the motor current. Once you have the parts in front of you, it's pretty straightforward and it works very well. I've been using this thing for about 8 or 9 years without a hiccup.

 

[McRabbet]

I've used a very reliable remote switch similar to the one Dave has shown for many years. Dave provides a link to a simple wireless remote outlet, but it is no longer available (but here is a link to one that is available for under $12 on Amazon.com). It only handles 120 volts, but can be used to power a 240 V high amperage relay (called a contactor) with sufficient capacity to handle the heavy amperage requirements of a 3 to 5 HP motor. Amazon.com also has the contactors, with a 30 Amp example found here for less than $10 (can handle 5 HP motor). Here is a photo of this contactor installed in an enclosure with dummy leads shown for the 240 Volt L1 and L2 (hot) inputs and a short lamp cord connected to the silver coil connections on the sides of the contactor (Modify this example by removing the wire coming in from the right and replace the Blue butt connector on the yellow power cord with a female 1/4: spade connector and attach it to the coil connector hidden from view in place of the white wire with black tape. The romex wire is not needed) . About $30-35 with the enclosure and a reliable and safe way to control a big dust collector.

 

[Dave Richards]

Thanks for that Rob. I was only looking for a picture of a unit similar to the one I used. Neglected to check for availability.

And contactor is the word I should have used.

 

[MarkE]

I used a contactor with a low voltage (24v) control circuit which is powered by a door bell transformer. The output from the transformer is wired to micro-switches mounted on each blast gate, when any blast gate is open the circuit is completed and sends power to the contactor control circuit. I also added a delay-on-break timer that allows the DC to run for (variable) 12 seconds after all blast gates are closed. The transformer is plugged into the light outlet in the ceiling so when the lights are turned off, the transformer is not powered so the DC can't come on accidentally.

 

[DavidK]

Mark,
This is what I was planning to do when I get around to setting up my dust collector. How did you mount the microswitches on the blast gates? Do you feel the delay-on-break timer is useful?

Thanks!
David

I used a contactor with a low voltage (24v) control circuit which is powered by a door bell transformer. The output from the transformer is wired to micro-switches mounted on each blast gate, when any blast gate is open the circuit is completed and sends power to the contactor control circuit. I also added a delay-on-break timer that allows the DC to run for (variable) 12 seconds after all blast gates are closed. The transformer is plugged into the light outlet in the ceiling so when the lights are turned off, the transformer is not powered so the DC can't come on accidentally.

 

[FlyingRon]

I actually like the remote better than the blast gate controller. I tend to shutdown the DC in between operations. The remote sits on top of the table saw fence. The control box (with its own start/stop buttons) sits on the opposite side between Margy's lathe and my drill perss.

 

[MarkE]

Mark,
This is what I was planning to do when I get around to setting up my dust collector. How did you mount the microswitches on the blast gates? Do you feel the delay-on-break timer is useful?

Thanks!
David

David,
I mounted the small micro-switches pictured with epoxy. Several of those have failed or just come un-glued. I replaced them with larger sized switches that are mounted with #6 machine screws to the gate's plate.

I'm not sure how useful the delay timer is, but it was a cheap add. I have a couple of automated vacuum switches for sanders, drill press, etc. and they all have a few second delay so I figured why not.

 

[MarkE]

I actually like the remote better than the blast gate controller. I tend to shutdown the DC in between operations. The remote sits on top of the table saw fence. The control box (with its own start/stop buttons) sits on the opposite side between Margy's lathe and my drill perss.

There are definitely advantages to going with a wireless remote. Running wires to each blast gate is a bit more work, especially if you have to change your DC layout. I do like the extra safety(?) of being able to power off the transformer by turning off the lights. I have had the inexpensive wireless remotes fail in the past leaving the circuit powered on.

I have one port, going to my belt sander that is always open, no blast gate. I installed a paddle switch near that sander so I can turn the DC on without having to open another blast gate.