Remedy for cracked knob on Stanley plane

creasman

Board of Directors, Development Director
Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
I'm restoring a Stanley No 7 that has a cracked knob. It's not completely broken and my thought is to stabilize the crack so I can continue using the knob. Does anyone have experience filling these sort of cracks with epoxy or other adhesive? Any recommendations on best solution short of replacing the knob?

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creasman

Board of Directors, Development Director
Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
Inject glue in crack, clamp.
That was my first thought but I'm concerned that much pressure will simply crack the other side. It resembles a season crack like you might see at the end of a board where the wood has dried too much and cracked to relieve the stress. I may try using a hose clamp to see if I can apply even pressure to close it up.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
If you separate it then you may want to insert a snug fitting bolt to help with alignment. A little axel grease will keep the glue from sticking to the bolt.
 

Strom

New User
Strom
I've done a lot of these. The way I do it is to clean the crack with acetone. Mix some epoxy clear and use a pallet knife to work it in the crack. A wooden hand screw with a small groove cut into each arm will securely hold the knob till the glue dries. No fails. Generally the epoxy is thick enough to fill the crack. Use wax paper .
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
Saw a groove so it's a uniform crack. Insert spline with glue.
Then file, sand or turn the outside and drill for the bolt.
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
+1 for the super glue and clamp.

I use thin viscosity glue and have never had any issues. I clamp snug, wick the glue in and tighten. No thick glue to interfere with the fit.
 

creasman

Board of Directors, Development Director
Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
super glue and clamp
That did the trick. I filled it with as much super glue as I could then clamped it tightly using a hand screw clamp. It took a good amount of force to close up the crack. I wiped off the squeeze out and left it overnight. Wasn't sure the glue would hold but it seems to be doing fine. Learned a new use for super glue. Thanks all for your input!

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Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
I have a beech infill that has a longitudinal crack.
I was told from a "professional" repairer of tools to use Hyde glue (LHG) and some sanding swarf to fill the crack.
This is something of a unique situation because if I clamp it there is approximately .070 gap to the interior of the metal sole...
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I hope to get to working on it after Christmas and will post some after pictures...
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I wonder if it might be better to pull the tote, saw that crack a little more uniform and put in a spline. I'd worry about a crack that wide held only by glue/wood mixture.
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
I wonder if it might be better to pull the tote, saw that crack a little more uniform and put in a spline. I'd worry about a crack that wide held only by glue/wood mixture.
I need to get deeper into it and decide, but it is likely that I will open it up and put in a spline...
But, it is solid with the screws that hold it into the sole, but I am worried bout them wallowing or getting damaged over time, hence the reason for fixing the infil...
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Does the crack continue beyond the tote or did the hole stop it?
I didn't remember how far the crack extends, here is a Fleabay picture, but I will look at it more closely when I am getting ready to fix it...
I think it come up to near 1/2 the toto.
I originally intended to glue it and clamp it (it closes really nice, but that creates the .070 gap and I am more concerned with that.

The funniest part of this adventure was when I pulled it apart and learned the toe infill appears to be rosewood, but the tote seems to be beech!
I spoke to my UK expert and learned that this is quite common with dated infill panel or jointer-style planes...
infil plane.png

a little "Beauty shot"
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