Refinishing a dance floor with Waterlox...any suggestions?

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countrygirl

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Anne
I'm going to sand and refinish a portable oak dance floor that my family uses for clogging. The Waterlox sealant was top choice because you don't need to re-strip the entire floor to add a coat when it gets worn thin, just clean it and add another coat.
Is there anyone who has done this before and has some tips?
 

Russ Denz

New User
Russ
Hi Anne,
A couple years ago we finished (new floor, as opposed to refinishing) the new Ambrosia Maple floors in our entire house with Waterlox, and I do have a few tips for you. The first of which is to give you the link to the most knowledgeable and helpful place you'll ever need regarding Waterlox:
www.paintsource.net I called them a number of times with questions came up and never hung up without 1) an answer, and 2) the reasoning behind it. I think it was Doug I talked to, but it has been well over a year ago.

Most importantly it is imperative you know that Waterlox is NOT a layer/coat-building finish like Urethanes or most other floor finishes. Understanding that fact is absolutely essential in that floor preparation is everything. If you make sanding mistakes or ommissions they will not get filled-in by your finish. Waterlox is tung oil-based and is therefore a penetrating finish that actually helps preserve the floor (as I understand it). Knocking it down with light sanding between coats makes a big difference, almost as great a difference as vacuuming up the dust and further prepping it with a clean rag DAMP with mineral spirits. I learned the hard way that the floor refinishers around here don't like it because of the extra work involved. In fact, mine ended up walking away from it over halfway through, never to be seen or heard from again. I'm not saying all of them would respond the same, but the "tip" is not to pay upfront, holding as much back as you can until the job is finished.

The rest is common sense: allow ample time for each coat to dry thoroughly before prepping for the next coat, and give it as much air as you can - the odor/fumes are unbelievably strong!!! Finally, I would recommend at least 4 coats, with being the Sealer/Finish before going to a topcoat. That about covers it and the guys at PaintSource will prove themselves invaluable.

We also did our Maple countertop in Waterlox, finishing with the Satin topcoat - we did this ourselves - and now years later it is still drop-dead gorgeous!!! Best of luck to you...and don't forget to post pics!!

Also, if you find someone really good, please let me know; we've got ~2800 sq ft that needs refinishing some day soon.

Russ
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Useful info from Russ above. The Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish is great stuff to work with, but I have no personal experience using it on flooring. Their site is also an excellent source of information.

http://www.waterlox.com/

A few tips that you need to be aware of:

1. Dry time is about 24 hours with GOOD air circulation and low humidity, but the full cure time is 30-90 days to achieve maximum hardness.

2. Our humid NC summers extend the dry time in my experience (even in ac). If it's still a bit tacky to the touch it's not dry. Thicker coats take longer to dry.

3. Sanding. If the paper starts to gum up-don't do it! If the sanding residue is powdery then you're okay to continue.

4. Leftover finish in the can (between coats) will begin curing because of the residual oxygen in the air on the surface, even if the can is resealed tightly. This produces a gel like residue which is useless and a waste of good $. Bloxygen Finish reserver (argon gas which is heavier than air) is a must if you want to protect your investment. DO NOT put leftover finish back into the original container because this just accelerates the process! :thumbs_do
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Waterlox Original Gloss was originally called "Waterlox Original Gym Floor Finish". In other words Waterlox Original is an excellent finish for floors.

As said, Waterlox has a good web site and they are very receptive to phone inquiries if you have questions or problems.
 
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