RAS - Basic safety procedures

[Mad Dog]

Just picked this up from CraigsList.

Holding the handle with the right hand, there is the advantage of seeing the cut being made and using, if necessary, my stronger arm to control any lurching forward of the blade. Disadvantage is the blade is aimed at my right boob.

Holding the handle with the left hand, I am totally out of the line of fire but can't see much.

Also, if you are to adopt the "straight arm" approach (like when holding a chain saw), wouldn't you need to step back as you bring the saw forward?

I'm looking forward to using it but safety first. I'm waiting on the "upgrade kit" - they said 10 to 12 weeks - must remain patient.

Cheers!

 

[Joe Scharle]

My experience with that saw has been that when the blade 'bites', the motor is thankfully underpowered enough that it will bind up and pop it's internal breaker. I've only had a RAS jump out of my hand one time and it was due to my carelessness. While crosscutting a wide panel, when I reached the limit of the arm I pushed the carriage back under power and the blade caught a semi closed kerf; and guess what! It shot back like a rocket..
After an appropriate interval, I spent the rest of that day re-aligning the saw.


Oh, and use only a RAS blade. Hook angle, etc. Freud and some others will say RAS blade.

 

[Glennbear]

I have used my fairly old Craftsman RAS (with upgrade kit) for several years now and my experience has been similar to Joe's. I would caution however to make sure the kerf cut into the table is as shallow as possible but be certain that it runs the full length of head travel. I agree that when first using a RAS your body/arm placement is rather counter intuitive. :wsmile:

 

[Bill Clemmons]

If you fall in love w/ your new RAS and decide you want to do everything w/ it, there is a book you might want to find. "How to master The Radial Saw", by Wally Kunkel (Mr. Sawdust). He was somewhat of a character and worked for the old DeWalt company when they made RAS's. He claimed you could do anything w/ a RAS that you could do w/ a Table Saw. And he often proved it. :wsmile:

Bill

 

[Mad Dog]

...the motor is thankfully underpowered ...

Ha! I've been using a small 8" B&D Table Saw on and off for the last 25 years - zero problems. I once got a job in a WW shop and when using their big saw had 2 kickbacks in half an hour.

After an appropriate interval...

I know what you mean!

...make sure the kerf cut into the table is as shallow as possible but be certain that it runs the full length of head travel. ..

Thanks for that tip!

...If you fall in love w/ your new RAS..

Bill

I used it quite a lot in the WW shop years ago and liked the way it could quickly reduce 12" wide pine boards to length. Didn't know at the time how dangerous it could be - hence the basic safety questions. I've acquired a 10" table saw so I'll use that for ripping. If this RAS doesn't keep alignment after mitre cuts, I'll just use it for 90 deg crosscuts and make a jig for mitres.
Thanks for the replies.

 

[Mark Gottesman]

I don't know what your level of knowledge is on the RAS, so forgive me if I mention things that you are already familialr with.

Safe usage of the RAS depends upon several things: It must be properly aligned in all directions and those adjustments need to lock securely or move smoothly - It needs a stable cutting platform and it benefits from a sharp blade that is designed for it (usually with a negative rake).

There are several good books by Wally Kunkel,DeCristiforo (SP?) and Jon Eakes. If you look around you can find pdfs or ordering info on the web.. The Kunkel book has instructions for building a strong dead level table. Google Amazon books for list. Let me know if you need assistance finding anything.

There is a Dewalt radial arm saw group that also might be worth joining for the available info. The one with full access costs $$, but it pays to check in and see what is going on.

The RAS is a versatile tool and a properly set-up one is an asset to a shop. They can be finicky to get to that point. Improperly set up units should be used with Depends and the ambulance people on speed dial. I like them, but they are not for everyone.

 

[Mad Dog]

Mark,

Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I've been doing a bunch of reading - including the DeWalt site.

http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher

My plan is to wait until the new table top and saw guide arrive from Emerson, do all the alignments (with a dial indicator) and see if that does it. If not I'll build a torsion box:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9euQNBStAG8

The Mr. Sawdust book looks interesting but $40 is a bit much right now, especially considering I'll only be doing cross cuts. The Jon Eakes book, pdf available online for $15, is all about alignment (apparently) and I think I'm read up on that so I don't think I'll need it.

This Freud LU91 blade is relatively inexpensive - I may send away for it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7AI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The previous owner had a 28 tooth fast cut cutoff/off blade that appears to have a 20 deg positive rake, if I'm measuring it correctly. Not sure I trust that. It's in the picture - on the table - a bit rusty but sharp.

Cheers!

 

[Len]

If you will only be using your RAS for cross-cuts you might want to check out the 'built into the countertop' approach for mounting it. One persons method can be found at: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Radial_Arm_Saw_Setup.html Pictures are down the page a ways.

This gives good support for longer boards you may want to cut down, without having to find supports for the long end.

Len

 

[Drew Roy]

I personal love a 60 tooth cross cut blade from Freud. My arm saw is set up to cut up to a 120" header or rail. The new bench by the middle of next month will accomodate 146". Depending on what you are doing with your saw not everyone can afford a Tigerstop or a Razor Guage automated stop. There is a company out of South Dakota www.scotchman.com that offers two different systems the Quick- Loc is the way I am heading myself. Their systems are offered in metric and inch versions.
I hope you will update us as you go. :saw:

 

[Mad Dog]

Len,

Yes, that setup is definitely the way to go - thanks for posting.

Drew,

Thanks for the recommendation for the Freud blade and for the link to the hi-tech systems.

I'll re-post when the new table comes in.

Cheers!