Push sticks for the shop

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I have a couple of homemade push sticks for the table saw but I'd like to upgrade. I could also make a new wood one.

Does anyone use the Grr-ripper and what is your impression of it?

 

zapdafish

Steve
Corporate Member
Love the gripper and used to use it all the time on the TS, so much that I got 3 so I wouldn't need to switch out the attachments but I got the jessem saw guides so only use them now for narrow cuts.
I never feel the need to use a featherboard anymore.
For narrow cuts it is hard to beat, can control the stock while going over the saw blade.

https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides

I still use it on the jointer.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I was given a Gripper by a neighbor, and like it for wide boards and times where I remove my splitter (i.e. rabbets and dadoes). If you get one, I recommend you also get the the gravity heel attachment if it isn't included in the package you buy. If you have a splitter on your saw, or a drop down blade guard, you will need another push stick to get pieces less than 4" from blade to festick to the table.nce fully past it, which is quite a bit of the work for a frame style build. Its really designed for table saws with a riving knife and no blade guard. As stated above, it is really great for narrow pieces if you have clearance over and past the blade.

So, if you remove the splitter and blade guard, you may also consider buying a magswitch feather board for safety, like I did. I got the magswitch pro model so I could have both the side and top feather board. The problem is that I usually rough cut boards a little wide and then trim the edge. With my miter slot 5" from the blade, it is totally useless for that purpose, because the magnets fall right over the miter slot, and won't grip. If your saw is similar, don't buy the "pro" model, buy the narrower ones. They won't give you the top down option, but a least they will grip the table. If you have a Ridgid saw with the lightening slots in the cast iron wings (mine is the TS3650), don't buy the pro model because there are more times it won't work than it will.

Go
 
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llucas

luke
Senior User
plus one for the gripper...mostly on very narrow rips that the usual push stick can fit.
also useful for dado/non-thru cuts.
I have found the need for two grippers when cutting longer boards so that I can keep the board moving by rotating the position of the grippers from front to back.
 

Brantnative

Jeff
Corporate Member
I have two of them and use mostly when I'm cutting small pieces for toys. It's a tool like any other and you have to be mindful of its close proximity to the saw blade. One time I wasn't paying the attention I should have and caught the trailing edge on the back of the blade. It kicked back and the Gripper flew past me like any other piece of kicked back wood. Luckily I wasn't in the way.
 

Berta

Berta
Corporate Member
I don’t like the gripper. I have short arms and had a hard time reaching past the blade and that caused kickback. You have to remove the splitter and anti kickback paws. That said I did need to use it to make cutting the grooves for the plexi for my shadow box frame. My new tablesaw is smaller than my old one, so it worked well. Still scared.
 

Jim M.

Woody
Corporate Member
Another fan of the Grrr-ripper, my wife bought me one after my TS accident, she made it mandatory if I returned to the shop.

For anyone reading this thread, please throw out the cheap plastic push sticks and if you decide to make some shop-made sticks, use something which is strong and has a tight grain.
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
Love the gripper and used to use it all the time on the TS, so much that I got 3 so I wouldn't need to switch out the attachments but I got the jessem saw guides so only use them now for narrow cuts.
I never feel the need to use a featherboard anymore.
For narrow cuts it is hard to beat, can control the stock while going over the saw blade.

https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides

I still use it on the jointer.
Steve, I've considered buying the Jessem but haven't seen them installed on a Sawstop fence yet. Do you have a Sawstop? Will they fit on a Sawstop?
Thanks!
 

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
+++on the Gripper! I have 2 and use them all the time, as I cut many smaller, thinner pieces. The plastic push sticks are pretty but a slight contact with the blade and they will either chip out, not saw out, or shatter. Use only wood push sticks, or the GRIPPRER for safety and ease of use.
 

Dreuxgrad

Ed
Senior User
I have several of home made pushers in that style. I think we made a run of them at HOW several years ago.
185296
185297
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
I have a couple of homemade push sticks for the table saw but I'd like to upgrade. I could also make a new wood one.

Does anyone use the Grr-ripper and what is your impression of it?

+1 on the grrripper. Also have a wooden push shoe (gift from another NCWW'er) and a smattering of sacrificial push blocks. A handle screwed to a piece of 2x4 goes a long way.
 

cyclopentadiene

Update your profile with your name
User
Another fan of the gripper. I have a sawstop but this provides extra security in the event the technology does not work.

They not only work as a push block but they are more effective than the conventional pushblocks for holding the piece down. The traditional push block seems to lift the piece from the table with longer cuts if you are not careful. Two gripper units can be used to ensure it is always flat with the table.

I use it on my router table as well.
 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
I use a variety of wood push sticks. The plastic one don't like saw blades. As far as holding a piece flat on the table I use 2 push sticks 1 in front to hold down & 1 in back to push. I have never used a Gripper, but I've always considered it just another gadget to relieve me of my money. There are many things out there that 1: you can live without, or 2: you can make for yourself.

Pop :)
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
IMO pushblocks are better than sticks for most ripping applications on boards >3" wide.

I make up several from 2X4 with a shoe and a 1" dowel put in at a slight forward angle. I make a half dozen at a tmie. When they are chewed up I remove the dowel, & toss it.

I like being able to push the offcut through and not worry about fiddling with setting the width like you would with the gripper.

But mainly, not a big fan of spending $50 for something I can make for pennies.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Got this saw handle design out of the back of a 1970s Brodhead Garret catalog. Been using it ever since. The through hole makes a big difference. I tried the open handle design because I didn't have to go to the trouble of a pierced hole. Not the same feel at all. I've seen the grippers. They're way to stubby and awkward for me not to mention expensive. With the wood ones, you can rip into the bottom as much as the hook lug will take. when that lug gets iffy, cut another surface and hook lug. I've got some push sticks I've had for at least 20 years.

I keep the sticks right over the table saw.

1 push sticks - 1.jpg

Yeah, its a messy shop in this photo. Sometimes its worse, most times its better.

1 push sticks - 2.jpg


1 push sticks - 3.jpg
 

tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
I am a fan of the style below. Not sure what you call it. Picks up the best of a couple different designs (and affordable).

185312
 

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