Powermatic 3520B...Dream Machine or Hype

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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
[h=1]Stronghold Chuck[/h][h=3]This heavy duty chuck is designed for large lathes (16" swing or greater) to provide maximum gripping power![/h]

 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Stronghold Chuck

This heavy duty chuck is designed for large lathes (16" swing or greater) to provide maximum gripping power!



Yea, I looked a little deeper - there is a spring loaded detent that holds the jaw in place on the EWT Chuck!:nah:
 

arcwick08

New User
arcwick08
I'd be interested to see some experiment comparing the gripping power of each chuck with the same set of jaws. Since the contact circumference on the larger chuck is larger, I'd think it would indeed grip better. That being said, I don't think I've ever knocked a bowl out of my talon that was chucked correctly.
I also found another brand of chuck recently - "Bull Dog Chucks". I believe they're made by a former vicmarc guy. No 1st hand experience but they seem nice.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
I will bet somebody at the Carolina Mountain Wood turners knows or maybe already did a review on them!
 

HBFlyer.com

New User
HB
The amount of knowledge you guys have in your heads is overwhelming. Looked at Oneway and Robust. Had no idea!!!! What incredible eye candy. Not sure I'd grow into one of these before I pass. I think this might be like my first sports car. I started with one in mind but was told to keep test driving until the car spoke to me. My dream car was a terrible disappointment. After several brands, I found myself in a Porsche.

In the meantime I've got this question; how much power is enough? 1.5hp or do you need to go to 2hp. I set my shop to be capable of working with exotics and hardwoods. 5ph table saw, 5hp 21" band saw have given me great options. When it comes to turning I'm looking to do the same thing. I don't want to undersize my choice and in fact it appears that the icing is more important than the cake. this discussion has really opened my eyes.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
In the meantime I've got this question; how much power is enough? 1.5hp or do you need to go to 2hp.

Lathe power and gripping power of a chuck are interesting questions but there's an assumption that all wood is the same. It isn't. Most good chucks are strong enough to crush the fibers of green wood when turning out bowl blanks. Shmushed fibers mean not so good of a grip. Not so good grip means that you'll be the second to know that there was a problem when trying to rough out a 40 lb bowl blank.
2 HP is good. 3 HP is a little better for the practiced bowl turner that wants to get the excavating done in a hurry. 3 HP can power through a catch and sling a bowl blank if the operator isn't familiar with turning. Actually, 2 HP can do it also. Wood fibers are only so strong and a catastrophic catch can dislodge things.

I work on woodworking machines and several friends that are pro turners have had me do some work on their Oneway lathes so I've had a front row seat in how well they are made. I own and use a Powermatic 3520 and have worked on those before also. I can clearly indicate why the Oneway is a superior machine to the point that it makes my 3520 look overpriced for what it is. While the massive spindle with dual front and rear spindle bearings are impressive by themselves, the real star of the show is the precision and heft of the tailstock components. They are flat out impressive and suitable for any large metal lathe. The tailstock works so smoothly and accurately that it makes the tailstock on my 3520 look dinky and cheap.

Sorry I don't have photos of the tailstock, but I did get some of the Oneway's main spindle compared to my 3520 spindle.


The 3520 spindle is obviously on the bottom with a single 207 bearing at the spindle nose. The oneway has dual 209 bearings.


Front view of the spindles with the 3520 on the right.


The rear part of a Oneway spindle. Note the precision and durability of the pulley mounting system. Impressive.

Tymen Clay, the designer of the Oneway lathe, is no slouch as a mechanical designer. He designed it right and built it right. The cost is what it is to get "right" in your shop.

The 3520 does all I ask it to do and has never let me down, but I can say that its not in the quality category of the Oneway.

My lathe is a 3520, USA-made. The 3520B is Asian-made for the most part. The newer lathe may not be built out of as good cast iron as the USA version, but it is clearly better designed because it is the third generation. Some corrections have been made like wider feet. Wish I had them. Below are some photos of my 3520 in work to give a good idea of what can be done on that lathe.


Tailstock down at the end so you don't have to hurt your back leaning over.


My son turning a paulonia log making a big mushroom


Mushroom complete


Turning an 8x8 x 48 oak spindle


Long tapered cone that extended past the tailstock. The spindle steady by Oneway is real handy for this.


A mess. Roughing out green wood into bowl blanks for drying is the fun part. No dust to speak of, just wet shavings that peel off in strips. A great fun way to vandalize a piece of wood.

(yeah, yeah, so I didn't have anything better to do but submit a long post)
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
I see one inherent flaw in the design/versatility of the Oneway and Robust machines. I love the fact I can slide my head to the end of the bed for working inside a bowl. This also increases my swing dramatically. Bob, as a mechaincal engineer I can see and appreciate the dual bearings on the Oneway, However, my 3520 is now 10 years old and there is no bearing issues so to me it seems like overkill.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
I got my 3520 late in 1997. I chose it over the Oneway because of the sliding headstock and the fact that I didn't have to spend as much money. Had I known the actual differences then I may not have made that initial decision. Knowing what I know 17 years later, I see that it was the right decision for me since I don't do all that much turning. When I've turned on the Oneway lathes, I can clearly feel the superior difference of the Oneway. Most guys I know that do professional turning use the Oneway. Roughing out twenty or more bowl blanks per day, all week long isn't something I feel the 3520 would stand up to. That said, changing head bearings in the 3520 Is a whole lot easier.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Bob,

My old shop made lathe has a 3 inch tapered sleeve bearing about 8 inches long.

I keep it greased but I think after 60 years it is starting to show some wear.

Is there anything I can do to take out the .040 eccentricity besides going to a machine shop and having a new sleeve made?
 

arcwick08

New User
arcwick08
Robust has a model called the "Sweet 16" that I thought pretty hard about. It looks exceptionally nice, with some VERY well thought out design elements - a removable bed section that doubles as a bed extension or outboard turning rest, for example. Theres a good youtube video from the owner out there. From a CS standpoint, I reached out to them with some questions and the owner responded to my emails and answered all my questions. Then came back a few weeks later to follow up and see if there was anything else he could do. Granted, this is sales not service, but it seemed to indicate good things.

I think the robusts and oneways are in about the same price league (major). No argument from me that a Oneway is a nice machine. If their chucks are any indication, they're built like tanks.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
The amount of knowledge you guys have in your heads is overwhelming. Looked at Oneway and Robust. Had no idea!!!! What incredible eye candy. Not sure I'd grow into one of these before I pass. I think this might be like my first sports car. I started with one in mind but was told to keep test driving until the car spoke to me. My dream car was a terrible disappointment. After several brands, I found myself in a Porsche.

In the meantime I've got this question; how much power is enough? 1.5hp or do you need to go to 2hp. I set my shop to be capable of working with exotics and hardwoods. 5ph table saw, 5hp 21" band saw have given me great options. When it comes to turning I'm looking to do the same thing. I don't want to undersize my choice and in fact it appears that the icing is more important than the cake. this discussion has really opened my eyes.
Sorry we have gone a little "Far-a-field" on your original post, unfortunately it happens.

I think you are safe starting at this level - you will turn a LONG time before you outgrow the PM as you can see from the numerous posts.
as far as Horsepower, I would encourage you to get as much as you can afford - that is the only hold-back in that category. You are not buying a PM to turn pens! (Just my opinion - because it is easy to spend someone else's money! ha ha)
 

aplpickr

New User
Bill
I bought my PM so that I could turn a salad bowl set with a "mama bowl" of about 14" diameter. I have never done that big bowl! Size your lathe for what you will really turn. Good hardwood blanks in that size range are EXPENSIVE. My 2HP lathe is overkill for what I turn.
 

Joe Bradshaw

New User
Joe
I'm getting into this discussion a little late. I don't own a Powermatic, but have turned on one in 5 classes at John Campbell Folk School. They are great lathes, but, I think that the Jet 2hp 1642 is the best bang for the buck. I have a Oneway 2436 and 2 Oneway 1224's. I also have the Robust Liberty. I have 2 small Jets(1220 and the 1221VS). I am basically lathe poor. Two shops equals two setups. I do agree with the others who think that the 3520 is priced a little high, but, it is still a solid performer. The accessories add up really fast, starting with chucks, when you get tired of changing jaws and tell yourself that you need another chuck. I have Talons for my smaller lathes and Strongholds for my big lathe. I feel that the Talons will work well on the 3520, once you get the first big bowl or platter out of your system. I do most of my turning on my 1224. I love that little lathe. Good luck on what you decide.
Joe
 

HBFlyer.com

New User
HB
I'm getting into this discussion a little late. I don't own a Powermatic, but have turned on one in 5 classes at John Campbell Folk School. They are great lathes, but, I think that the Jet 2hp 1642 is the best bang for the buck. I have a Oneway 2436 and 2 Oneway 1224's. I also have the Robust Liberty. I have 2 small Jets(1220 and the 1221VS). I am basically lathe poor. Two shops equals two setups. I do agree with the others who think that the 3520 is priced a little high, but, it is still a solid performer. The accessories add up really fast, starting with chucks, when you get tired of changing jaws and tell yourself that you need another chuck. I have Talons for my smaller lathes and Strongholds for my big lathe. I feel that the Talons will work well on the 3520, once you get the first big bowl or platter out of your system. I do most of my turning on my 1224. I love that little lathe. Good luck on what you decide.
Joe

Thanks for your input and no it's not too late. I know Powermatic can be a bit pricey but at 20 -25% off its easier to swallow. In fact al of my PM and Jet purchases have been in that discount range. I would simply wait for that opportunity. I have found a difference in fit and finish between my Jet and PM equipment. So that has me focused on the 3520b. There has been a lot of great feedback and frankly a great education where to focus my energies I think he tools and accessories will be another fun journey. Thanks much for the input.
 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
Having sold & repaired power tools including lathes. I am the proud owner of a Delta 46-715. I have gone through 8 out of round main shafts. 5 were at the service shop. Not A very good lathe. My best advice is DO NOT get a lathe that uses a "reeves drive" to chain speeds. I'm an old Shopsmith user & repair guy believe me I've had my experience with "reeves drives" that how a Shopsmith changes speeds. The system is very trouble prone, no matter the brand.

Pop
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
he system is very trouble prone, no matter the brand.
Pop
That's a very accurate generalization. i couldn't agree more. Better made machines with a Reeves drive speed changing system last a lot longer before they give trouble and need rebuilding.
 

arcwick08

New User
arcwick08
I was just at the new Klingspore shop over here south of Asheville and they've got a brand new 3520b sitting on the floor.... just sayin :) It's right next to a Jet 1642 so I got to see them side-by-side. The Powermatic is overbuilt - in a good way. Obviously an extra 4" of bed swing. Bed ways are far wider and much deeper, the tailstock and headstock are both more stout. The banjo... yikes, the thing is massive - easily twice the size of the Jet's. I'd also rank the overall level of fit and finish on the PM higher than the jet; better paint job, smoother castings, etc. The jet isn't ugly by any stretch.... the PM is just nicer.

The question is whether these things add up to $1,300 of improvement...probably a judgment call IMO.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
The question is whether these things add up to $1,300 of improvement...probably a judgment call IMO.

Not a judgement call at all. One machine is more expensive because its better made. Upthread, look at the comments on the Oneway. Its even better made yet and of course, more money. The difference is there to be observed.

The value judgement will be whether or not the owner will realize any difference. Most, but not all, owners of the 3520B do.
 
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