power carving - foot pedal versus dial for speed control

[CarvedTones]

I have a cheap import Foredom knock off hanging motor rotary carver. The foot pedal was basically junk, bet I reshaped the sheet metal so it wouldn't keep coming apart and I insulated it because it was delivering a minor shock at times (yeah, I know you get what you pay for).

What makes that pedal work is smoke. I know that because the smoke leaked out the other night and now it doesn't work anymore. :wrolleyes:

The motor, cable and handpiece seem to be much better made and have never given me any trouble, so I figured I would look for another foot pedal. I have found a few in the $30 range, but haven't bought one. I hooked it up to my router speed control in the meantime, or that was my thinking. But after using it that way, I have found it has a couple of advantages and I wanted to get feedback from others about which they use (if either).

One thing I am getting from the router speed control is consistent speeds at the low end. It may be that a better pedal would give me that also, but I am not so sure because of the other advantage - not having to keep my foot locked in one position while I carve. Even seated, it is hard to keep your foot in exactly the same position when you lean forward/back or twist your shoulders. Anyway, I am starting to think that the foot pedal is seriously over rated, and I am not sure I will get another after all, or possibly just get one that just is off/on. That is one major advantage; being able to turn off the carver with your hands full.

 

[MT native]

Andy,
I use both controls. On my Foredom I use a H44T handpiece, with 1/4 collet mainly used with larger Burrs (e.g.: saburrs) with VERY aggressive teeth for quick wood removal; and an H28 handpiece with 3/32 and 1/8th collets. The ability to consciously control the speed from slower/faster/stop has its advantages, especially with these very dangerous burrs. Case in point: I once droppped my micromotor into my lap and as an automatic reflex tried to grap it and shoved the bit into my palm. I was lucky that it was a minor injury that time, thank goodness. I immediately thought to myself, "Now know why I prefer the foot pedal with my H44t and H28 handpieces. I felt relieved that it had not been a Saburr tooth carbide burr on my H44T on a dial control or the damage could have been far, far worse". Also, ever since then I have worn leather (fitted, not loose) working gloves when using Saburr burrs. Those have saved my skin many times since.

My micromotor comes with a dial, which I prefer because I am constantly switching between smaller burrs and bits, from the more aggressive Ruby's down to fine detailing stones and sand papers. Since the safety limit speeds vary greatly (many bits will break at higher RPM's and sand paper flies off mandrels, both of which have happened to me FYI: I love my safety glasses) with such a wide variety of bits/burs I find the dial much easier to use.

I hope my experiences help you decide which works best for you.

Jane

 

[CarvedTones]

Jane,

I hear you about those dangerous burrs; I have some Kutzall and Typhoon burrs, which are similar to the Saburrs. I have a coarse Typhoon sphere that will hollow a spoon very quickly, but it is definitely a "secure the blank and use both hands" tool. That bit is one of the things that makes me wonder if I shouldn't still have an off/on foot switch even if using the dial.

 

[Glennbear]

If a foot switch is used for safety reasons in conjunction with the dial I would consider a "dead man " pedal as opposed to a tap on/tap off pedal. :wsmile:

 

[CarvedTones]

If a foot switch is used for safety reasons in conjunction with the dial I would consider a "dead man " pedal as opposed to a tap on/tap off pedal. :wsmile:

Yeah, I thought about that. But one positive about the dial is the mobility. Obviously you're on a short leash - the flex shaft cable - but sitting or standing is a lot more tiring of you have to keep one of your feet immobile. Something like a boat motor lanyard would be ideal. A lot of the off/on switches will function as a dead man switch; they switch on release, so you can turn it on and then press down again to turn it off but not release. I know it may sound like paranoia to someone who hasn't used one of the aggressive carbide burrs, but my hanging motor is 1/3HP and if a really coarse burr gains traction a smooth steel handpiece can get yanked out of a pretty good grip in a heartbeat.

 

[Sealeveler]

I have both but only use the dial For me it controls the speed better and I don't have to use my foot.I have had hand piece get away from me before but no damage because it just ran away from me.Tony

 

[CarvedTones]

Actually, "just running away from me" is one of the nightmare scenarios...

Maybe wall mounting that power strip and getting the cords up off the table would be a good idea...