Pocket Hole Drilling Question

[Johnny Johnson]

On my last project I started to get ragged edges around the hole. I tried different ways to drill the hole. Fast and pushing hard and drilling slow all gave the same poor results. I was using a Dewalt battery drill and thought rpm's could be the problem. Also I went and bought a new bit and got the same bad results. I read on the new bit package that the bit needed to be 2300 rpm ( I think)
I went and bought a new corded 2500 RPM 3/8 Dewalt Drill. Problem still there. It first showed up on plywood and I have tested oak, maple, hickory and plywood. Some holes drill fine with a smooth edge hole. But for most cases I still get a splintered edge around the hole. I am using a aluminum jig I bought from Harbor Freights several years ago. I have a Kreg Jig but I like the Harbor Freight one better. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can improve on drilling the hole?
Thanks
Johnny

 

[Robert166]

Don't have a solution because I have the same problem, noticed the drill bit with the kreg seemed to have a wobble in it. I think it's the bit. JMHO

 

[ehpoole]

The degree of feathering around the edges will vary greatly depending upon the species of wood you are drilling and the state of your drill bit. Twist bits are optimal for drilling quick holes while clearing the waste efficiently, not for drilling holes with extremely sharp and well defined edges at the point of entry (that is what Forstner bits are for), and especially not in woods that are prone to tearing their fibers easily and this effect will increase as the bit wears. Most general purpose plywoods are a pine material of one sort or another and pine is very prone to such tearing while harder woods generally produce cleaner edges (but will still often have some loose fibers around the edges). You can remove the feathering along the edges with a bit of sanding (a medium to fine sanding sponge works best if that is all you wish to touch up, in my experience) if bothered by such. Generally your pocket holes should be located such that they are well out of view, so minor imperfections in your holes are not ordinarily a big deal since one would have to go out of their way to see them.

 

[tarheelz]

I have generally had the same experience with pocket holes. They aren't really designed for perfection. I did minimize the tear out on a project where I was going to need to use plugs (the holes were not all placed in a hidden location) by taping over the spot where the holes would go and drilling through the tape. (This is the same trick use for cutting plywood.)

 

[McRabbet]

Dave beat me to the solution: Use Blue Painters Tape on the wood where the drill bit will enter and it should minimize the tearout.

 

[chris_goris]

On my last project I started to get ragged edges around the hole. I tried different ways to drill the hole. Fast and pushing hard and drilling slow all gave the same poor results. I was using a Dewalt battery drill and thought rpm's could be the problem. Also I went and bought a new bit and got the same bad results. I read on the new bit package that the bit needed to be 2300 rpm ( I think)
I went and bought a new corded 2500 RPM 3/8 Dewalt Drill. Problem still there. It first showed up on plywood and I have tested oak, maple, hickory and plywood. Some holes drill fine with a smooth edge hole. But for most cases I still get a splintered edge around the hole. I am using a aluminum jig I bought from Harbor Freights several years ago. I have a Kreg Jig but I like the Harbor Freight one better. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can improve on drilling the hole?
Thanks
Johnny

Cant you simply sand off the ragged edges? Not sure how youre using the pocket screws, but typically they are in areas where they are not seen, so any tear out is inconsequential.

 

[AllanD]

I haven't tried this with my pocket hole jigs but perhaps you can find a brad point bit of the same diameter as the larger part of the pocket hole bit and use it to just get the hole started then switch. I have never bothered to try since the only pocket holes I drill are somewhere out of sight in cabinetry.

 

[Canuck]

Had pretty much the same question in my mind this past weekend.

I tried the blue tape trick this morning and although it didn't totally eliminate the issue; it sure minimized it.

Wayne

 

[Jeff]

+1 on using pocket holes in inconspicuous places that are rarely seen. The joint strength is pretty good but pocket holes are not meant to be showcased, even with the fancy plugs that the manufacturers try to peddle to you.

On my last project I started to get ragged edges around the hole.

So the earlier projects had smooth edges around the holes and suddenly it's an ugly mess? Have you compared the HF and Kreg jigs side-by-side in the same wood to see if the tearout is the same with each one?

It first showed up on plywood and I have tested oak, maple, hickory and plywood. Some holes drill fine with a smooth edge hole. But for most cases I still get a splintered edge around the hole.

I won't speculate about that, but wood grain can change within the same piece of wood.

 

[Skymaster]

if tearout is that much of an issue, use oversized material, drill em then run em thru a sander. As with the others i dont bother with it as all mine are hidden, try a NEW drill bit.

 

[Johnny Johnson]

Thanks for the replies.. What is the best way to attach face frames to cabinets made with plywood? With my next project I can hide the PH's but what is a method when they cant be hidden? I think that 90 % of pocket holes I have done was drilled with the grain putting face frames together. That is most likely why I dont have fuzz or tear out. Most of the tear out is drilling across the grain and when I drill PH's in plywood.
Thanks
Johnny

 

[Skymaster]

Glue,clamps, Dado in face frame 1/4 Dado on ply 1/4 tongue

 

[golfdad]

I drill a lot of pocket holes in plywood. Tearout is minimal and I never have an issue sanding it out. If you still have it and its a problem do as Jack said. there are multiple was to attach Face Frames to cabinet boxes

 

[JimD]

I generally just clamp face frames to the box with titebond to secure it. Perhaps a pin nail or two to keep it from shifting as I tighten the clamps.

 

[garymuto]

if tearout is that much of an issue, use oversized material, drill em then run em thru a sander. As with the others i dont bother with it as all mine are hidden, try a NEW drill bit.

I agree on the new drill bit suggestion. mine holes are hiidden too so I haven't apid attention.