Plywood plank flooring for new shop?

[Billm0066]

Just built a 12x20 shed that will be used mostly for woodworking. I have the subfloor down now and was thinking of putting something over that is not too permanent. If I get tired of it or damage it badly I would like to tear it up without destroying the subfloor. I plan to have most of my tools on a mobile base so I can't use horse stall mats. Any thoughts on ripping down some plywood and finishing with a tinted poly? Do you think brad nails or another nailer would keep the floor down without any adhesive? I'm open to other ideas too. I want something for looks and also to add a little more rigidity when walking in it. Trying to go on the cheaper side since I spent a lot on the shed and still need to pay an electrician to wire it. Plus more tools

 

[bowman]

If you are wanting to be able to replace the top layer, why not use 1 1/4" deck screws. It will be easier than trying to pull the nails back out

 

[tarheelz]

I've seen YouTube videos of folks doing this who appear to have achieved attractive results for a room in their homes. What I don't know is whether the edges of each plank hold up - particularly if subjected to the injuries of a shop floor.

 

[Jeff]

What is the current subfloor made of and what is the floor joist spacing (12", 16" o.c.)? How does it feel now?

5/8" ply should work fine. Fasten it to the subfloor with 1.25" screws as Neal suggests.

 

[Billm0066]

If you are wanting to be able to replace the top layer, why not use 1 1/4" deck screws. It will be easier than trying to pull the nails back out

Screws wont look good, and the time it would take to install and remove. Im not looking for a perfect floor, just something that looks good that could be changed at a later date relatively easily.

 

[Billm0066]

What is the current subfloor made of and what is the floor joist spacing (12", 16" o.c.)? How does it feel now?

5/8" ply should work fine. Fasten it to the subfloor with 1.25" screws as Neal suggests.

LP 23/32 16" OC 2x10 joists. It feels fine, but I dont care for the feeling of walking on unfinished floor. I dont want to deal with screws. Just wondering if finish nails would be enough holding power to keep the strips down. Will probably do 6-8" wide.

 

[TENdriver]

Bill, Have you thought about an off-the-shelf floating floor?

No nails, easy to put in and take out, probably much less time than ripping and finishing ply, and perhaps lower costs in time or money.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

My shop is on a crawl space and the sub floor is 23/32 T&G flooring. On top of that I laid two layers of roofing felt, then 1/2" OSB screwed down w/ 1" drywall screws. Then I painted it w/ a flooring paint.

I know you don't want to use screws, but I'm not familiar w/ another method that would allow you to easily take the floor up at a later date.

 

[Gofor]

I doubt finishing nails will hold down the edges of the ply when the moisture gets to it. Another option would be to buy a 12' wide by 20' long piece of linoleum. Work benches, etc around the walls would hold most of it down there, although you may want to tack it in front of the door to keep it from curling up. Strips of wood with finishing nails would also keep the wall edges down. It would require having most of the shed empty long enough to lay it down.

Smooth to walk on, move mobile tools, and sweep. Easy to rip out when you want to. May not be the most durable, and heavy tools may leave some indentations.

 

[Billm0066]

Bill, Have you thought about an off-the-shelf floating floor?

No nails, easy to put in and take out, probably much less time than ripping and finishing ply, and perhaps lower costs in time or money.

I have. I feel like those floors are so delicate and would get torn up pretty quick. It fits the bill for price and ease of install though. I will see if theres anything stronger out there.

I doubt finishing nails will hold down the edges of the ply when the moisture gets to it. Another option would be to buy a 12' wide by 20' long piece of linoleum. Work benches, etc around the walls would hold most of it down there, although you may want to tack it in front of the door to keep it from curling up. Strips of wood with finishing nails would also keep the wall edges down. It would require having most of the shed empty long enough to lay it down.

Smooth to walk on, move mobile tools, and sweep. Easy to rip out when you want to. May not be the most durable, and heavy tools may leave some indentations.

I was looking at the vinyl garage floors but couldnt find anything wider than 10' so this might be an option. Thanks for the idea.

 

[cobraguy]

Bill - great question and something I am mulling over as I plan for a new dedicated shop. An option I am considering, and would value opinions on, is luxury vinyl planking. A kind of hybrid between the click wood flooring and sheet vinyl suggestions. It is also a floating click install, so quick and easy on the initial go round and for replacement. My questions though are the same ones for sheet vinyl. How well it will hold up as things move around and how permanent are indentations. I plan to test it out with some of the really thin stuff from HD to make a desk chair mat to protect my office hardwood. Could be an option for us both.

 

[redknife]

There was a thread here by a contractor Wyatt who installed plywood planks for clients. Here is the thread:
https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/index.php?threads/plywood-plank-floor.63002/#post-581680
May glean some extra info and maybe PM. Obviously already have some good advice.

 

[chris_goris]

I have seen floating bamboo flooring that is hard as anything out there, I would look at lumber liquidators, I think its cheap too!

 

[KenOfCary]

We put down a Maple Hardwood engineered T&G floor in the hallway in Cary several years ago. It stood up well against a Weimeraner's sharp nails over the years. Never had heavy equipment on it, but engineered snap-lock floating floors are pretty tough. The flooring came from Sam's and was pretty cheap but held up well.

 

[JohnnyR]

I used barricade which I don't think is sold in the U.S. anymore (Canadian I believe) Similar product is Dricore, 2'x2' OSB with a "foam" backing. Holds up to heavy equipment and easy on the feet and dropped tools. Pieces snap together to form a floating floor. Sold as a subfloor but can be used as is with some poly or paint over it. No mechanical or adhesive used so you could pull it all up (and use it elsewhere). I'm in Rolesville if you'd like to take a look.

 

[Mike Davis]

Not trying to change your mind, but I have horse stall mats in my garage over concrete floor. Roll over them all the time with mobile bases and even drag machinery over them, they are very tough. After 6 years they still look like new. But if you just want to stiffen the floor plywood sheets are stiffer. I don't think they wear as well though.

 

[Gofor]

I think stall mats would definitely make a nice floor. Looks like the 3/4" (4' x 6' sheet) are cheaper per sq ft ($1.88sf) than the 1/2" (3' x 4' sheet @ $2.08sf). They do have a rubber odor when new, but it disperses fairly quickly

 

[Mike Davis]

Oh, one other thing. If the idea is to stiffen the floor I would not cut the plywood sheets into "planks" that will make them less stiff.

 

[Rwe2156]

I agree with Mike if you're rolling machines around you want a stiff floor.

I can't think of anything more economical than 3/4 plywood. I'd go with tongue and groove myself.

I wouldn't finish it other than maybe coating with deck sealer.

 

[Dave Richards]

Like Dr. Bob, I'd put down full sheets of T&G plywood. Paint it with porch paint if you want to put something on it. I'd probably paint the edges while it's still stacked up so the seams aren't so noticeable. Then paint the rest of it with a roller on a broom handle.