Plywood plank flooring for new shop?

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
If you want the look of planks, you can always put down a sheet of plywood and make shallow grooves every 4" or so. That'll give you the look of individual planks without losing any rigidity. A V-bit and a router would probably work best, but you can also use a circular saw (or even better, a track saw).
 

Billm0066

New User
Bill
I ended up using 10" wide pine tongue and groove. Really gives a nice feeling under foot and looks good. It was #2 so lots of character which I think is perfect for shop floors. Deciding if I want to apply any finish over them. Cost was $.70 linear foot so pretty cheap. About $210 for the whole shop. Held down with 2 1/2 finish nails in the joists.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I used laminated flooring in the basement of my last house. I was surprised that dropping things would occasionally penetrate the oak top layer and dent the poplar inner layer. I think it's top layer was thicker than plywood's. So I wonder about durability of that approach.

I put solid 5/16 oak flooring into about 700 ft2 of my ex wife's house we were selling. We did not live in it after that but I would be more confident of the durability of this approach. This was in 2013 but we only paid about $1/ft2 for it. It was prefinished. It was tongue and groove but I needed a special stapler to put it down.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I ended up using 10" wide pine tongue and groove. Really gives a nice feeling under foot and looks good. It was #2 so lots of character which I think is perfect for shop floors. Deciding if I want to apply any finish over them. Cost was $.70 linear foot so pretty cheap. About $210 for the whole shop. Held down with 2 1/2 finish nails in the joists.

Smart move, let us know how well that holds up in about 30 years.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
I have seen floating bamboo flooring that is hard as anything out there, I would look at lumber liquidators, I think its cheap too!

In the case of Lumber Liquidators there is a certain “buyer beware” aspect as many of their in-house brands have been manufactured in China “on the cheap” and found to contain harmful levels of formaldehyde (with their apparent knowledge) due to their choice to use formaldehyde based glues as the buyer apparently did not want to pay the premium for more expensive formaldehyde-free glues as they were allegedly trying to substantially boost their profitability numbers ahead of a planned IPO and the cost savings were significant over the safer glues (in other words, the investigative evidence has been that it was an intentional corporate choice to use formaldehyde-based glues and market the product as formaldehyde-free or low-formaldehyde since they command higher prices while feigning public ignorance). To be clear, the resulting products were not just a little over California state and WHO safety standards (there are/were no federal limits in effect) but many times in excess of declared limits, high enough to make some customers very ill and cause chronic health issues in others. Hopefully that situation has improved markedly after the recent class action lawsuits, but who knows (?) as they apparently intentionally and knowingly marketed the formaldehyde based products as “formaldehyde-free” so you can’t really trust on faith what they provide on the spec sheet without the buyer taking the initiative to submit samples to an independent lab for testing and verification.

Just food for thought and something to be aware of when shopping. I’m not saying “don’t buy from them” but rather “really do your homework and don’t trust what’s printed on the product specs or what the salesperson tells you”...kind of like used car buying! If you can open a sealed box and actually smell a strong scent of formaldehyde then it’s probably better to move on rather than lay out lots of square feet of the stuff in an enclosed space that you’ll be spending a lot of time in. But also be aware that plywood, OSB, and MDF/particleboard can also contain/be manufactured with formaldehyde based adhesives (and the latter use a lot of adhesive since they are chip/wafer products bonded by a lot of glue, plywood much less so by comparison). To review the history of this topic for oneself, simply Google “lumber liquidators formaldehyde”.

The above is/was true concerning laminated and engineered flooring products to the best of my understanding. I would not expect it to have affected solid wood flooring products given little need for adhesives in solid wood, but then the popularity of the laminated and engineered options was their cost savings and ease of installation over solid wood options.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
I agree with Mike if you're rolling machines around you want a stiff floor.

I can't think of anything more economical than 3/4 plywood. I'd go with tongue and groove myself.

I wouldn't finish it other than maybe coating with deck sealer.

That would be my top choice for a rigid and inexpensive floor as well. Just break all the edges before laying it down so as to avoid splinters along the edges should someone ever wander through barefoot (sealing with poly also helps immensely).

I would think that trying to break plywood into lots of narrow strips and breaking or chamfering/rounding over all the edges slightly to avoid irregularities in thickness at joints and possible splinters to be a lot of hassle, to say nothing of routing tongue and grooves (if you want a more tightly tied together floor) — for preparing that much flooring one would tend to want to use a shaper.

But, provided the existing floor is strong and rigid enough, vinyl flooring is certainly an option if you use the better quality vinyl flooring as they can handle quite a lot of abuse before showing heavy wear, even more so if you opt for the commercial grade vinyl that is colored solid all the way through the product such that even worn areas still look just like the wear free areas. However, given the weight of some heavier tools in our shops, I would probably want to see a floor (plus sub-floor) that was at least 1-1/4” to 1-1/2” thick in total to resist flexing and dips at the points of contact where a mobile base transfers its load to the floor as 4, or so, narrow contact footprints over the 16” to 24” spaced floor joints (thicker still if greater than 24” spacing).
 

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