Out building

[ACobra289]

I am in serious need of a shed or some type of out-building for my lawn and garden equipment and for storage space.

I am leaning towards building it myself (when/if the money becomes available). If I do build it, is there a particular size that makes the best use of 4x8 plywood sheets? 16x16? 16x20? Money is a factor, so I can't go real big.

My other question concerns the foundation. Does anybody have a guestimate on what the cost would be for a 16x16 or 16x20 concrete pad? I suppose another option would be to pour some footings and frame the floor on top of that. I wonder how the cost of a framed floor would compare to a 4" concrete pad?

Any other advice or tips for me?

Thanks.
Bill M.

ps - yea! my 100th post!

 

[Rob]

Bill, my garden shed has a treated wood base, set up and leveled. I had it built several years ago when I bought the house. By one of those places that sell sheds. Don't remember the cost, but for a garden shed, I would think concrete wouldn't be cost effective.

 

[TXnNC]

Bill,

Prices for concrete will vary depending on area and local demand. With that being said, I had a slab poured in Feb. that was 24x32 (768 sq ft). I dug my own footings and did the major leveling. Total cost for 11 yds of concrete and fine leveling was $2300. So, doing rough math a 16x16 should run about $800.

Congrats on the 100!!

Ken

 

[Tarhead]

Check out this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Building-Shed...=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1218105012&sr=1-2

Most libraries have it. Lots of great info about everything related to sheds. There's a new edition getting ready to be published.

My 16X20 shed is on stacked solid block piers with 4X4 skids and 2X6 floor/rim joists on 16" centers. The floor is 3/4" tongue and groove plywood. The walls are 2X4s on 16" centers skinned with LP SmartsSide panels. http://www.lpcorp.com/sidingtrim/lpsmartside/products/panel.aspx

I'm on a slope so leveling would require some site work with a Bobcat. My calculation had a concrete pad at ~25% more than stick built when everything was added up but your situation may be different. Something else to think about is by not permanently attaching it to the ground you may be able to skirt the building permit requirement. Just be sure to check your set back rules from your lot line...including the roof overhang.

If you really want a concrete floor for cheap you could always rent a mixer and DIY. Mixing/messing with concrete is one of those things worth paying for at all costs though...like digging ditches, roofing and insulating attics in August.
Mark

 

[Don Sorensen]

16 x 16 or bigger, you'll need a building permit. 12 x 12 or smaller and no permit is needed (so I'm told). So I designed a 12 x 12 shed for all my garden/yard tools. Framed floor on stacked block piers (only two high, fortunately). I figured about $2,000 for everything, including siding to match the house. And this was back when USB was better than $10 a sheet. It, and other building materials, has come down a ways since then.

Concrete quotes: it was running about $125 /yard delivery for more than 5 yds. Less than 5 yds, there was an additional delivery fee. And he said to figure somewhere between $60 and $80 per yard for "finishing". Gee....makes me think I'm in the wrong business.

Personally, I hope to go with the framed garden shed. All my friends know which end of a hammer to hold, we all like grilled meat, and we all like a beer or two to go with the grilled meat after a good day of hammer swinging. :gar-Bi

 

[rbdoby]

Bill,

81 sq. ft. of concrete 4" thick is a cubic yard. 16x20 pad is about 4 yards of concrete. If you pour the footers along with the pad you'll need to figure the size of the footers also. My shop is built on this type of pad. Dug the footers, built a form and poured the hole thing at one time.

Instead of building your own building you may want to check out TNT Carports in Mt. Airy, www.tntcarports.net or Carolina Carports, www.carolinacarports-inc.com in Dobson. You may not want a metal building but the websites are interesting.

Rick Doby

 

[cptully]

Bill,

Last March's issue of Fine Home Building had a nice article on shed building:
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/building-a-shed-or-outbuilding.aspx?ac=fp

This article discusses both sizing and techniques to save time and materials. One of the more intersting things he does is to use a PVC foundation pier instead of concrete (see www.redifooting.com).

Chris

 

[dave "dhi"]

anything over 144 sq ft for shed needs a permit(a permit for a shed:rotflm::BangHead for a shed especailly if u have a jealous,idiot for a near by neighboor. or a state worker! i have been shut down twice for building them without permit! dave

 

[Steve W]

IMO, concrete is overkill for a garden shed. 144 square feet seems to be a universal limit here for no permit vs. permit -- it's the same in my town/county.
I had the Blue BORG quote me a materials list for a 16 x 20 shed back before I put up my shop. I wound up buying from Dutch Barns a 12 x 20. They use good materials and the stud walls and floors are on 16" centers, with 24" centered roof trusses. It wound up being $1000 less than the materials alone to build it myself. I got my shop up in a day. The permit was about $35 and included electrical inspection, which was a snap.

I had this done back in late 2006 and I spent about $5500 total including electrics (I wired the shop myself, dug the trench, but had a pro come in and run the line from the service panel to the shop).

HTH,

 

[Joe Scharle]

Have you considered pole barn construction? Years ago I built a 12X8 'mower' pole shed. Barn doors, PT 4X4 timber sill, 2 gable end windows on earth floor. T1-11 siding, tin roof.

 

[ACobra289]

Thanks for all the great information!

As cost is a factor, I guess a concrete pad is not the way to go. Plus the area I would like to put it is not exactly level.

I have not checked into the pre-built as I assumed it would be much cheaper to build it myself, but that may not be the case. I will check out Dutch Barns and the metal building place.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions.
Bill M.

 

[sapwood]

Bill,
I bought a wooden pre-built about 5 years ago and I'm very pleased with the building. It's only 10x14, but made with real 2x4s and douglas fir siding. I purchased it at Amish Barns (well, they could be Dutch). There is one regret. The roof only has a few inches of overhang and I think that's true for most pre-builts.

HTH,
Roger

 

[lcottrell]

I bought the book that Mark mentioned and it was great. As someone who has never framed a wall or done anything like building a shed, it had most of the information I needed to get going. That, along with researching on the Internet and some advice from neighbors, gave me what everything I needed. My wife and I are now in the finishing stages of building a 12'x20' outbuilding. We layed shingles last weekend and are installing windows and doors this weekend. We went with solid stacked blocks for the foundation and it seems very solid.

As for buying vs building, I wanted the experience gained by doing it myself and am glad I did. I am figuring I have about $2500-$3000 in it and I couldn't buy one that size and quality for that amount, so I think it turned out well.

Good luck!

Lance

 

[Glennbear]

Since time constraints and lack of help precluded me from building it myself, I had a 24x24 shop shell erected by a contractor and it is sided with LP Smart Side. I had a choice of Smartside or T-111 and I am highly pleased that I chose the former like Mark did. The interior work, wiring, plumbing, insulation etc. I did myself using a sheetrock ceiling and OSB wall panels. :wsmile:

 

[BKind2Anmls]

Bill,

Try to search on "Shed kit." There are all sorts of kits in many prices. I've even seen one at Harbor Freight but I couldn't find it just now when I searched for you.
You can buy a kit for about $50 that will provide metal brackets that let you use 2" x 4"s without cutting any angles all the way up to complete kits with sides and roofs. Many of the suppliers offer free shipping so you might want to throw those words into your search as well.


Good luck.

===Susan

 

[rovertcv8]

Bill,

81 sq. ft. of concrete 4" thick is a cubic yard. 16x20 pad is about 4 yards of concrete. If you pour the footers along with the pad you'll need to figure the size of the footers also. My shop is built on this type of pad. Dug the footers, built a form and poured the hole thing at one time.

Instead of building your own building you may want to check out TNT Carports in Mt. Airy, www.tntcarports.net or Carolina Carports, www.carolinacarports-inc.com in Dobson. You may not want a metal building but the websites are interesting.

Rick Doby

I need to warn you about Carolina Carports. We had a VERY bad experience with them and it to...no the BBB, or the State Attorney Generals office but WRAL to get the to give us the blue prints. We spen over a year fighting with them and having to deal with them.
I can only think of certain words that cnnot be used here to discribe what my wife and I had to hear from the.
There are alot of good companies in eastern carolinas that are great guys to work with. I would find me a CBT Carolina Bargain Trader and get one of them to give you a qoute.

Ok....feel better now. just wanted to give you a "heads up" on that groups.

As for building a shed....I use 4x4, cement blocks used for decks and 2x6 to build the base and then build a wall and roof.

Cheers
David Sheuring :gar-Bi

 

[Mike Davis]

My shop is 16x16, most of the framing is treated, 4x4 posts, 2x6 joists and roof beams, 8x6 center beam 20 feet long laminated from 2x6s, 2 foot over hang all the way around, tin roof and t1-11 siding. The windows were salvaged and the doors came from a yard sale.

I built it mostly by myself with a little help from my son who was 14 at the time. It took me most of a year working a little each weekend and having pneumonia for 4 months during that time.

Total cost was $3000.It is designed to be easily added on to by removing walls that are frames set into post and beam. The main beam is made with slots on each end so another beam can be bolted in to extend it easily. I'm very happy with the strength and stability of the structure. It is past time to add on but I keep thinking we will sell and have to move someday. I hate to put any more money into it.

Here are a few pics,

 

[ACobra289]

My shop is 16x16, most of the framing is treated, 4x4 posts, 2x6 joists and roof beams, 8x6 center beam 20 feet long laminated from 2x6s, 2 foot over hang all the way around, tin roof and t1-11 siding. The windows were salvaged and the doors came from a yard sale.

I built it mostly by myself with a little help from my son who was 14 at the time. It took me most of a year working a little each weekend and having pneumonia for 4 months during that time.

Total cost was $3000.It is designed to be easily added on to by removing walls that are frames set into post and beam. The main beam is made with slots on each end so another beam can be bolted in to extend it easily. I'm very happy with the strength and stability of the structure. It is past time to add on but I keep thinking we will sell and have to move someday. I hate to put any more money into it.

Mike, thanks for the pics and the information. I wonder if that type of structure would be up to code in the city of Winston? I know I would have to get a permit. Does that mean there is "code" that has to be followed for an outbuilding? :dontknow:

Thanks to all who have responded with information and suggestions. I sure would love to do something soon, as I can barely walk in my garage right now. But as with most of us these days, money is pretty tight. At least I have time to plan everything out. :wsmile: