OK, so you have
- Thread starter woodrat
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No I don't. Send me yours, then I'll decide.:rotflm:
I would add a #7, for jointing, and a #93 rabbet plane for joinery (trimming tenons/cheeks). Plus throw in a low angle block plane for end grain. And a #73 for all other joinery (rabbets)
That's basically my collection, and I haven't found any thing that I can't do without them.
MTCW,
Dave
That's basically my collection, and I haven't found any thing that I can't do without them.
MTCW,
Dave
Wood?
Doug
Doug
Well, if you want to get technical, I guess wood should be involved
somewhere along the line. :rolf:
Thanks,
I use my block plane more than any other. It is very handy to do a little trimming either on end grain or along the grain. My most recent purchase was a Stanley shoulder plane. It was expensive, $130, for a hand tool for me but I find it very handy. It is great for getting tenons just right and is useful for trimming where you need to go up against another surface (the Stanley can have the front piece removed to make a chisel plane). I find it much easier to cut tenons a little oversized and then use the plane to get them to fit than to try and adjust the saw just right to get a perfect fit. Minor thicknesses variations do not throw me off if I cut oversize and trim. I also do not always get the shoulder cut just right but the shoulder plane can take a swipe or two and I am good.
Jim
Jim
Gosh, you post some of my favorite questions
A jointer plane. The longest and flattest one you are willing to spend money on. Its the hand tool way to flatten boards and make true datum surfaces. Getting a plane thats >22" long flat to within a 0.004" is costly. Refurb planes that long or older models may be out of true and cost about as much as a new one to be flattened.
Granted, some older tools are extraordinary. A Norris comes to mind, but they will set you back more than a new LV or LN.
Second to that, a shoulder plane. A small one, maybe a Clifton 400 or LN 1/2-Inch Shoulder Plane. A smaller one to start with. I find I reach for it quite often for touch ups.
Jim
A jointer plane. The longest and flattest one you are willing to spend money on. Its the hand tool way to flatten boards and make true datum surfaces. Getting a plane thats >22" long flat to within a 0.004" is costly. Refurb planes that long or older models may be out of true and cost about as much as a new one to be flattened.
Granted, some older tools are extraordinary. A Norris comes to mind, but they will set you back more than a new LV or LN.
Second to that, a shoulder plane. A small one, maybe a Clifton 400 or LN 1/2-Inch Shoulder Plane. A smaller one to start with. I find I reach for it quite often for touch ups.
Jim
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Thanks Jim.
I just recently picked a Stanley shoulder plane used #92.
Did you have to do a lot of tuning to yours? I sure did.
Thanks,
I got this little feller last year and still don't think I've got it tuned right. It's a Stanley #90 (SW IIRC). Maybe we need a tune-up session :eusa_thin
Roger
All good advice so far. In addition you might want to consider an old #5 or #6 with a crowned iron to flatten boards; at least those wider than your jointer bed. I know I will probably catch some grief for this, but I don't think it is absolutely necessary to flatten a planes sole. I'm sure it helps, but they generally serve their intended purpose if their reasonably close. All that is required is that the ends of the toe and heel as well as the area fore and aft of the mouth are in the same plane. I have over 50 hand planes, most of them vintage, and don't bother lapping them flat. They all work well for me. So if budget is a concern, I would not shy away from old iron. Hope this helps.
Jack or jointer. The jack will have more overlap with your bench plane (more jobs where either would work) so maybe the jointer makes more sense. The block, bench and jack or jointer are like the 3 bears of hand planes. I don't have a jointer and often wish I did; I get by with the jack as the "papa" plane.
My name is Larry and I'm a planeaholic. Be very careful you're starting down a slippery slope from which there's no return. Having said that, if you're still sure you want more, get a good #5 with two irons one straight edge and one curved for rougher work. They are very easy to find in flea markets and on Fleabay. Then go for the #7.
That slippery slope is why I avoid the numbers and use the names - block, bench, jack, jointer, rabbet, shoulder, router, plough, moulding, etc. Eventually you will run out of words, but you will never run out of numbers. Most likely you will run out of money first though. :rolf:
10-4 on running out of money first, Andy.
Sapwood, I do think we need a tune-up session.
Thanks, to all, for all the excellent advice and suggestions from
everyone. It has been an enlightening experience. I never
knew so many were into the hand work end of woodworking.
It is a good feeling to do a lot of the work by hand. I just
finished up a couple of drawers (not real fancy) for the shop
and was able to get all the corners even and flush using the
hand planes. Quiet, no dust, just shavings, and I didn't even
have to wear ear or breathing protection. That's great!!!! :eusa_danc
Thanks again for all the wonderful input.
My shoulder plane is 1 inch wide and made by Stanley in England. I forget which number that is. I wanted the wide one because it is the longest and I wanted to be able to easily do the face of tenons where more width seems preferable. I bought it new and the iron was TERRIBLE. It looks like it was rough ground and that's all. I spent a lot of time on a water stone getting it into respectable condition. That plus a little positioning of the blade and I was good to go.
I am not real particular, however. The opening in the sole is really too large and not straight across. You can move the front piece back and forth but it will not move back far enough to produce a fine opening. If I was trying to take a nice long shaving with it, I think the opening might be an issue. I sometimes cut tenons on my radial arm, however, so really all I need to do is take off the irregularity of the cut and maybe an additional swipe or two. For that, the opening size seems to make very little difference. I also need to touch up the shoulder sometimes but with the iron sharp, it seems to handle that cut OK too.
From everything I've read, the Veritas is a much better tool but I couldn't justify to myself $175 for a shoulder plane. I also wanted to trim a dust frame in an assembled dresser where the ability to convert to a chisel plane was desirable (easily possible for the Stanley, not for the Veritas). I'm still happy with the purchase but the Stanley is a little crudely made IMHO. It works fine for me so that is normally my ultimate criteria. I like nicely made tools but when I get one that is a little crude but works fine, I am happy enough (i.e. no replacement planned).
Jim
I am not real particular, however. The opening in the sole is really too large and not straight across. You can move the front piece back and forth but it will not move back far enough to produce a fine opening. If I was trying to take a nice long shaving with it, I think the opening might be an issue. I sometimes cut tenons on my radial arm, however, so really all I need to do is take off the irregularity of the cut and maybe an additional swipe or two. For that, the opening size seems to make very little difference. I also need to touch up the shoulder sometimes but with the iron sharp, it seems to handle that cut OK too.
From everything I've read, the Veritas is a much better tool but I couldn't justify to myself $175 for a shoulder plane. I also wanted to trim a dust frame in an assembled dresser where the ability to convert to a chisel plane was desirable (easily possible for the Stanley, not for the Veritas). I'm still happy with the purchase but the Stanley is a little crudely made IMHO. It works fine for me so that is normally my ultimate criteria. I like nicely made tools but when I get one that is a little crude but works fine, I am happy enough (i.e. no replacement planned).
Jim
I will be the contrarian in the group and recommend a #78 (duplex filister and rabbet). It is a relatively inexpensive plane in used condition (<$50) and exceeding flexible in utility.
You can use this one plane to trim tenons, raise panels, and cut rabbets.
You can control the width and depth of cut with this plane and it includes a knicker for cutting cross-grain.
I don't recommend a jointer plane, because only crazy people use a hand plane to joint and thickness stock anymore. If you fall into the aforementioned category, ignore my post.
-Mark
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