Oak Bed Frame

drchristian

New User
David
Getting ready to Build a Queen size Red Oak bed frame for my Daughter-in Law. She wants the bedpost to be 4"x 3". In checking with Hardwood Lumber store, they only have 12/4 in Red Oak listed. I have to build up the post anyway. Being that I have never done a Oak Bed Post that big before, I am thinking this thing will weigh a ton if built from solid oak Was thinking of either building a hollow post or putting pine in the center.
What are your recommendation to do this. Solid oak build up or some other option? Rough Plans attached.
 

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Jeff

New User
Jeff
A 3 x 4 x 54 bed post is .375 cubic feet and dry red oak weighs 44 lb/cu ft. Each bed post should weigh only 16.5 pounds, not a ton.


You may have to glue up 2 pieces to get your 4" x 3" bed posts.
 
Last edited:

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
I agree w/ Fred: Heavier is better when it comes to bed post. I would get the 12/4 from The Hardwood Store and cut blanks 4" wide. Even if you have to dress it down to 2 7/8", I bet your daughter in law will never notice (or care).
 

Jim M.

Woody
Corporate Member
Like all have said heavier the better. Stick with the soild oak and glue up what you need to make the correct dimension.
 

cpw

New User
Charles
Heavier IS better.
I also noticed that the drawing does not include a center support. It can be as simple as a post fastened to the middle of the center slat, but a queen size bed MUST have a center support. Lack of support will void the warranty on most queen mattress sets. I saw it dozens of times when I worked in the bedroom furniture store.
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
Heavier IS better.
I also noticed that the drawing does not include a center support. It can be as simple as a post fastened to the middle of the center slat, but a queen size bed MUST have a center support. Lack of support will void the warranty on most queen mattress sets. I saw it dozens of times when I worked in the bedroom furniture store.
Two things, David. Go to the furniture store and measure some mattresses to make sure your dimensions of the frame will be adequate. Also, mahogany comes in some 12/4 stock so that's another option.

Roy G
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I have built this bed two times and will make one more in cherry shortly:
https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/heirloom-cherry-bed/

The one my son and daughter in law sleep on is oak. The one my daughter and son in law sleep on is cherry. The legs are 3x3 so a little smaller. There is also less wood in the panel area of the one I've made. But it is a pretty comfortable carry for one guy. Your's might be enough heavier that two people would be advisable. Your's may also be taller which would add weight. But I would make it solid, unless you want to hide the glueup by mitering the corners as has been suggested. I might make it hollow but I would not fill with softwood and would do it for appearance, not weight reasons.

I also modify the plans to make a platform bed. I've made several other beds too and they are all platform. I see no purpose to boxed springs. The platform gives better support. You can make it more or less flexible. I also have not found a need for a center leg doing this. The one my son and daughter in law use has a very solid platform the size of a boxed spring. it is made of plywood, 3/4 for the vertical pieces and 1/2 on the top. It is pretty heavy and hard to move. But VERY strong. My daughters has "slats" of 3/4 plywood that are about a foot wide. I've used narrower and thicker but the plywood works well, the cost is reasonable, and it is easy to move if you have to. Solid wood is stronger and lighter but costs more.

My last "tip" is to allow plenty of room (at least an inch) on the sides for putting sheets on. I've done this and not done this and I am done with not doing it. It is tempting to make the slats shorter so you can get two from a 10' piece of lumber. But you are going to regret it every time you put sheets on (or hear about it depending on who does it at your house).
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
Your plan shows 60" between the posts, since the side rails are inset, this adds the room Jim rightly calls for. Your length though at 83+" is excessive for a normal queen at 80" so unless you have a "California" mattress you'll forever be burrowing for your pillows.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
A queen size mattress is 60" w x 80" l.

My last "tip" is to allow plenty of room (at least an inch) on the sides for putting sheets on. I've done this and not done this and I am done with not doing it. It is tempting to make the slats shorter so you can get two from a 10' piece of lumber. But you are going to regret it every time you put sheets on (or hear about it depending on who does it at your house).
I can't clearly see the 60" w dimension in your plan. Is it 60" from the inside edges of the legs or is it 60" between the rails?
 

golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
I have made the same bed as Jim ...yrs ago. Still strong and solid
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
And what approach did you take with
- the 4x3 legs - solid or a built up box?
- slat or solid base?
Love the work and you make me realize that this project is on my list of to-do's
 

drchristian

New User
David
And what approach did you take with
- the 4x3 legs - solid or a built up box?
- slat or solid base?
Love the work and you make me realize that this project is on my list of to-do's
I made solid 4x2, and worked out great. Nice and solid but not so heavy that one person can’t handle it wit a little grunting.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
Looks great! My latest bed, made since my earlier post, was a double for one of my guest rooms. It is also a Woodsmith plan but not one on their website (I have all the back issues on a memory stick). The legs are about 3 inches by 1 3/4 inches in oak. I found some at Wurth thick enough to do it in one piece. Plenty strong and not too heavy.
 

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