Two years ago, I posted some .jpgs of a Sketchup for a planned case for my grilling area. All these pics are in my gallery, but that case is shown here: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=64422&title=cabinet&cat=500 . There is also a Sketchup of my house where I planned to locate the case.
I started the case not long afterward, but soon hit a violent snag. After having done quite a bit of successful resawing over a number of years, I was suddenly unable to get good boards for the doors out of a beautiful piece of 16/4 walnut -- just kept screwing it up BADLY and I finally quit in disgust. Of course that walnut was virtually destroyed.
The experience pretty much put me off for a while and the project languished while I did lots of OTHER things.
But finally late last year, I decided to "fix" my issue with resawing, so I backed off and studied up on technique and decided to buy a Woodslicer blade. Since then I've been happily and successfully converting large stock to custom boards happy with both technique and blade. (This time I had to use 12/4 stock. The original mess was milled to make up the back and roof.)
The result is shown here: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=64422&title=cabinet&cat=500
This grill cabinet fills my need (and desire) for a special place for certain tools, books, and instruments that I use constantly when grilling and smoking. The location is mostly out of the sun and has a 2' house eave over it, but it will at times get rain driven in. So I wanted something for exterior and to keep out water. That roof is "shingles" made of overlapping walnut sealed over the case with silicon seal underneath and overhanging the front of the round-edged doors. The roof frame is glued to the front edge, but held at the back with a screwed ' floating slip-joint' like you might use to hold a tabletop on. There is one brad in the center of each 3" shingle with a very slight gap between (hence the silicon seal). The back is made of ship-lapped (lap jointed) 3/8" boards with a 1/16" gap between. The case body is through tenoned, with a vertical and horizontal divider made with sliding dovetails. There is one movable shelf. Butt hinges hold the book-matched doors on to the face frame which hides all joinery. There is a 3/4" bead between the door panels. The whole thing is screwed into the house framing studs with a French hook.
To preserve the look of the black walnut, the entire case is finished with brush applied coats of TWP to seal and provide mildew protection. I used this on my deck and it's a great penetrating oil for outdoor use. This is "Natural" which doesn't hide the tones of the black walnut.
I'll add another pic when I get the tools all hung and the accessories in place.
Rich
I started the case not long afterward, but soon hit a violent snag. After having done quite a bit of successful resawing over a number of years, I was suddenly unable to get good boards for the doors out of a beautiful piece of 16/4 walnut -- just kept screwing it up BADLY and I finally quit in disgust. Of course that walnut was virtually destroyed.
The experience pretty much put me off for a while and the project languished while I did lots of OTHER things. But finally late last year, I decided to "fix" my issue with resawing, so I backed off and studied up on technique and decided to buy a Woodslicer blade. Since then I've been happily and successfully converting large stock to custom boards happy with both technique and blade.
(This time I had to use 12/4 stock. The original mess was milled to make up the back and roof.)The result is shown here: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=64422&title=cabinet&cat=500
This grill cabinet fills my need (and desire) for a special place for certain tools, books, and instruments that I use constantly when grilling and smoking. The location is mostly out of the sun and has a 2' house eave over it, but it will at times get rain driven in. So I wanted something for exterior and to keep out water. That roof is "shingles" made of overlapping walnut sealed over the case with silicon seal underneath and overhanging the front of the round-edged doors. The roof frame is glued to the front edge, but held at the back with a screwed ' floating slip-joint' like you might use to hold a tabletop on. There is one brad in the center of each 3" shingle with a very slight gap between (hence the silicon seal). The back is made of ship-lapped (lap jointed) 3/8" boards with a 1/16" gap between. The case body is through tenoned, with a vertical and horizontal divider made with sliding dovetails. There is one movable shelf. Butt hinges hold the book-matched doors on to the face frame which hides all joinery. There is a 3/4" bead between the door panels. The whole thing is screwed into the house framing studs with a French hook.
To preserve the look of the black walnut, the entire case is finished with brush applied coats of TWP to seal and provide mildew protection. I used this on my deck and it's a great penetrating oil for outdoor use. This is "Natural" which doesn't hide the tones of the black walnut.
I'll add another pic when I get the tools all hung and the accessories in place.
Rich
