Masking for a Crisp Straight Line

[Canuck]

I am currently working on a another pair of cornhole boards and getting set to finish the top surface . I need to lay down some straight lines on the tops.

It seems that when I use traditional blue tape or Frog tape, I inherently end up with some paint bleed through no matter how well it seems to adhere to the line.

I am painting with acrylic latex and was wondering if anyone can offer any suggestions for getting these lines nice and crisp with no/little bleed through?

Thanks

Wayne

 

[Raymond]

Wayne, do you use a primer before you paint the boards? If not, have you tried Kilz Klear Water Based Primer before you tape out your lines?

 

[Mike Davis]

When I was in the sign business I used a product called Spraylat. it is a liquid rubber compound that forms a clear mask after being sprayed on the surface. You can then cut out your design with exacto knife and peel the excess. Then brush or spray the design and let dry. When the paint is dry peel up the mask and the design is perfect.

I also used adheasive clear contact shelving paper with almost as good results but sometimes it would pull up the background if it wasn't really dry.

 

[Skymaster]

frog tape and special blue tape for that purpose

 

[Mike Davis]

I am currently working on a another pair of cornhole boards and getting set to finish the top surface . I need to lay down some straight lines on the tops.

It seems that when I use traditional blue tape or Frog tape, I inherently end up with some paint bleed through no matter how well it seems to adhere to the line.

I am painting with acrylic latex and was wondering if anyone can offer any suggestions for getting these lines nice and crisp with no/little bleed through?

Thanks

Wayne

Masking tape is crepe paper, the tape is crinkled to allow bending around curves and to press into small defects. On a perfectly smooth surface the crinkle has to be pressed flat or the tape can be stretched a little to remove the crinkle. A rubber roller can help press the tape without moving it from the line.

On a textured surface the tape has to be pressed especially carefully to be sure there are no gaps between the tape and the paint surface. Rollering and carefull fingernail pressing can elliminate most of the gaps.

A spray mask is the ultimate when the highest quality edge is required.

 

[Obxwoody]

I've also heard of people taping, then painting either a clear coat to seal any gaps under the tape, or painting a coat the same color as under the tape, since you paint over it again it is just to fill any voids or runs under the tape....both make sense to me although I can't personally say I've used either...

 

[Dee2]

press tape in firmly. lightly load the brush and pad, no brushing, along the tape edge. let it skin off and then brush on the paint. for really crisp lines run a razor along the masking tape before pulling it up.

 

[Canuck]

Thanks so much for all of the great suggestions, all!

I decided to paint on a base coat of SW Proclassic Extra White over two coats of Kilz2 primer. When dry, I laid out the lines using the Frog Delicate tape (1 1/2W). (That tape is really thin!) Using an old credit card, I made absolutely sure that the edges were stuck down tight. I applied two coats of the blue and black acrylic latex to the field.

Waited until the field was almost dry and lifted the Frog tape and walla......

​

I am pretty impressed with the Frog tape (albeit a little more expensive) but it definitely worked well for me.

I will now wait until it is good and dry before I hit it with a few coats of GF clear and maybe add the graphics.

I really do appreciate all of your input and sending me different sources for the solution.

Wayne

​

 

[Jeff]

Interesting suggestions from others and your results this morning. Frog tape is new to me but their website is informative-pretty neat technology to seal those edges.

I'm disoriented in pic 1. ???

when I use traditional blue tape or Frog tape,

1. What's made the difference between how you were trying to do it versus what you did now and a Voila?

2. Prime and top coat for an initial smoother coating on the plywood? Then tape and use the credit card trick to seal the edges?

3. The "Green", cheaper Frog tape probably would have have worked after your new prep method. :dontknow:

 

[Canuck]

Interesting suggestions from others and your results this morning. Frog tape is new to me but their website is informative-pretty neat technology to seal those edges.

I'm disoriented in pic 1. ???

The top of the board is at the left. (photo auto rotate at work. )



1. What's made the difference between how you were trying to do it versus what you did now and a Voila?

In the past I have depended on sealing paint edges with inexpensive traditional 3M Blue tape. This time I opted to spring for the Frog brand to see if paint bleeding would be rectified.

2. Prime and top coat for an initial smoother coating on the plywood? Then tape and use the credit card trick to seal the edges?

I elected to give the birch plywood two coats of primer (Kilz2), sanding between coats, applied with a small 6" 3/8" nap roller. I laid down Proclassic along the white stripe line. Applied the Delicate Frog tape and used the credit card as a squeegee to ensure firm adhesion on the tape edges. Then painted the field with two coats of the blue and flat black.



3. The "Green", cheaper Frog tape probably would have have worked after your new prep method. :dontknow:

I thought about just using the green tape, but it dawned on me that the paint had only cured for 24 Hrs. As I didn't want to run the risk of the of lifting the paint when I removed the tape, I elected to go with the yellow Delicate Frog tape.

Wayne

 

[cpw]

Thanks so much for all of the great suggestions, all!

I decided to paint on a base coat of SW Proclassic Extra White over two coats of Kilz2 primer. When dry, I laid out the lines using the Frog Delicate tape (1 1/2W). (That tape is really thin!) Using an old credit card, I made absolutely sure that the edges were stuck down tight. I applied two coats of the blue and black acrylic latex to the field.

Waited until the field was almost dry and lifted the Frog tape and walla......

​

I am pretty impressed with the Frog tape (albeit a little more expensive) but it definitely worked well for me.

I will now wait until it is good and dry before I hit it with a few coats of GF clear and maybe add the graphics.

I really do appreciate all of your input and sending me different sources for the solution.

Wayne

​

I think you hit on a good solution since you were painting the whole thing anyway, but for future reference, back in art school before the days of Frog Tape, we used Matte Acrylic Gel Medium over the edge of the masking tape if we needed a crisp line. It would seal the edge in much the same way that the gel in the Frog Tape does, but if the Medium bled under, it dries clear so, no harm, no foul. It's really great if you want a crisp paint line on raw material.