LOML's new recipe box

[DaveO]

Inspired by Insomniac's threads on Purpleheart and inlay work, I decided to cross off one of my honey-do list items. Here is this weekends project, the one that tic'd me off beyond belief. It's scrap wood, Cherry, Purpleheart, Yellow satinwood, Maple, Walnut and Bird's-eye Maple inlay. Not done completely, I still have to mount the hardware and finish it. It is just wiped down with MS. Thanks for looking, Dave

 

[cskipper]

Very nice.

 

[D L Ames]

Wow.........That is really sharp Dave.

D L

 

[Monty]

Wow. That's a sharp looking box. I have a long way to go before I can turn out something like that in a day! Looks like you were able to get the sharp points like you wanted in your heart inlay -- nice.

 

[Big Mike]

Dave, I have made a few recipe boxes in my time but none as beautiful as that. What a treasure! I hope you signed it somewhere so that as the years pass and this box becomes a family heirloom everyone will remember who made a box with so much love in it!!!! It doesn't get any better than this.:eusa_clap :icon_thum

 

[DaveO]

Thanks, everyone.
Insom. I said that you were my inspiration. I had been afraid to free-hand routing an inlay, but after seeing that you did one, I figured that I could do it also. It really wasn't hard at all. I followed the method that you posted, and the router seemed to follow the line I cut with my X-acto knife. My inlay isn't as thick as yours, I laminated 3 pieces of veneer together to get some thickness, about 1/16".
Dave

 

[Joe Scharle]

Very nice

 

[TimRice]

I can't see all of the pictures, I mean only about half the width is visable. Is that just me or does the forum only show a certain width?

The forum software doesn't cut the images off. Your screen resolution may be set a little low so that the image extends off the right side of your screen. Mine is set to 1024x768 and I still have to scroll sideways to see all of the images.

 

[TimRice]

Dave, It's a lovely box!

 

[DaveO]

Sorry for the image size, I don't do anything to re-size it up or down, that's just how they show up. I have no problem viewing them on my monitor, but it pretty big. If you would like to see the half that your missing, check out the pics in my gallery. http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/browseimages.php?c=180I believe you can see thumbnails there.
Dave

 

[sapwood]

Nice DaveO, it's a beaut!

How is the box hinged? mortise hinges, barrel hinges, clip hinge????

Sapwood

Dufus Edit: Oooh, you haven't added hardware yet :eusa_shhh

Well, how big its it? Big enough for 3x5 or 4x6 or both????

 

[DaveO]

Sapwood, today I installed those cool 5mm barrel hinges that I used on the last box like this. I sized it to fit 4"x6" index cards, because that is what size most of my wife's recipies are printed on. And I would guess it would fit smaller 3"x5" also, but they wouls really look small in it. Thanks, Dave

 

[sapwood]

Thanks DaveO,

I just got some 10mm cylinder hinges at WWS, couldn't find any smaller ones :eusa_doh: Gives me about 1mm on each side of hinge So I probably will move hinges to corner of box to gain some clearance. Or maybe you can reveal your secret source for smaller hinges. :mrgreen: Surprisingly, web searches for "barrel hinges" gets 0 hits. I could only find them listed under "cylinder" hinges. :BangHead:

Unhinged,
Sapwood

 

[D L Ames]

Roger, Woodcraft carries the 5mm barrel hinges and list for 6.99 for a bag of 10.

Rockler also carries them at $6.29 for a 8 hinges.



D L

 

[Jonz]

Very nice.

Did you glue up the different strips for the top in one big strip, then cut into pieces and miter?

And how is the bottom installed?

I'm still trying to decide on the one I'm doing now. I'm doing the sides with box joints I've already decided.

 

[DaveO]

Jonz, For the banding I ripped the strips on the bandsaw with a 3/4" blade, and then took them down to final thickness (approx. 1/32", 3/64" for the Yellow Satinwood) with the drum sander, then tapped them all together and ripped again to the proper width on the BS. Then I glued them together using tape as a clamp. And finally mitered the strip to fit around the Purpleheart field. I taped over the blade clearance slot on my CMS to provide a zero-clearance surface to prevent chip-out (still need new blade) The box sides were mitered on the TS (first time for that). The bottom is 1/4" Maple ply in a groove. I assembled the whole box and then sawed the top of on the BS. I used the barrel hinges that I got from Woodcraft.

The only draw back I can see to using box joints is having to route a stopped daddo for the bottom. With mitered corners I can route out the whole groove and top rabbet in one pass, which can be more accurate with my tools.

Please let me know what you come up with and if you need any advice, I love making boxes. They are relatively simple, don't cost much and can be done quickly. It usually takes me longer to finish a box than it does to make it. This particular box involved no out of pocket expenses. Most of the wood was free or had already been paid for and I had the hardware and finishing supplies.
Dave

 

[sapwood]

Roger, Woodcraft carries the 5mm barrel hinges and list for 6.99 for a bag of 10.
Rockler also carries them at $6.29 for a 8 hinges.



D L

Thanks D L, not only have you directed me to a more appropriate solution; you've helped me hijack DaveO's thread :eusa_whis

BTW, is it necessary to chamfer back side when using barrel hinges?

Ever inquisitive,
Sapwood

 

[woodguy1975]

Thanks, everyone.
Insom. I said that you were my inspiration. I had been afraid to free-hand routing an inlay, but after seeing that you did one, I figured that I could do it also. It really wasn't hard at all. I followed the method that you posted, and the router seemed to follow the line I cut with my X-acto knife. My inlay isn't as thick as yours, I laminated 3 pieces of veneer together to get some thickness, about 1/16".
Dave

Sure give HIM the credit for inlay inspiration. I wonder where her learned it....

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Nice work Dave and Monty. You guys are doing excellent with the inlay. I choose to use carving chisels instead of the exacto because I don't have to worry about following the grain. BTW, back bevel the opening a couple degrees so you can press the inlay peice in by deflecting the top layer of fibers back. This will give you a very tight inlay.

John

 

[cskipper]

Here's an article on installing barrel hinges - not sure if it helps or not.

http://woodworkstuff.net/Hinge5.html

 

[DaveO]

Woodguy, you doing an inlay free-hand, OK. Insomniac doing one, inspiring for us little people:lol: :lol: :lol: Seriously, if you look back in the thread I mentioned that there are two ways to do inlays: the Woodguy method, and the router bushing kit method:eusa_clap You are teaching and don't even know it:icon_thum I was able to route almost right on the scored line, so I had very little trimming to do, but something other than an X-acto knife would be better.

Sapwood, yes you do need to chamfer the back edges of the box to allow the lid to rest back, which conviently also holds it open nicely. Set the bore dead on the center line and the chamfer to it, and the lid will stay open at about 93-97 deg.
Dave