I've got a major task in front of me, that I sure could use some sage advice on.
I'm about ready to start hanging about 1000 bd ft of 3.25" wide T&G Jatoba flooring on my walls.
Uh huh, you didn't misread that... on my walls. :rotflm:
I wish it was straight forward solid wall application... but alas, I'm pulling the crazy button out and essentially pushing it real hard. In that I am going to try to reconstitute boards out of em; a pattern of 1, 2, and 3 boards wide.
This insanity is compounded by needing to place them a very precise distance apart, than cannot vary more than 1/4" variation total, across the face of any single wall.
To take it even further down the road of needing a ticket to Dix Hill, the boards are needing to sit on top of a layer of insulation, that is separated by furring strips, which is what I'm going to try to attach to....
But just to prove I'm a tad beyond nuts... I need to keep as much of the rigid insulation on the wall and as few furring strips as possible.
I figure making "planks" 3 wide should be cake work. 2 planks wide is gonna be tricky... but single board width is flat out gonna drive me nuts the only way I can figure it.
Each package contains 2, 3, 4, and 5 foot long pieces. Most of the packages of the flooring have several full 5' pieces in them, as best I can tell.
I kinda' think the 5 footers will be best to use as single board width. With the shorter boards being used to make the wider boards.
Once the boards are "made up", I will need to remove the tongue...
The rigid insulation comes in 4'x8' sheets, and while I know there's a way to make the insulation come out for the most efficient furring strip usage @ 16", I'm not sure how well that's gonna work out using a 1x4 furring strip with 24", 36", 48" and 60" boards.
So, my main question is, how far apart do I dare make my furring strips to secure the jatoba to the wall?
It's certainly a HEAVY wood, with each 22 sq ft bundle weighing a little over 100 lbs., I kinda' worry about just securing it with nails every 24 inches.
The next big question is what to do about securing the boards together to make a wide board. Should I glue them with a decent wood glue –or– should I just rely on the main fastening method to attach them to the furring?
I don't really know how stable jatoba is. But, it sure seems like it is. I've had the wood stored in a regular "u-store-it" facility for almost 5 years, and there sure doesn't seem to be any warping, cup or twist to have occurred... and the T&G's are still super tight just in the bundles.
Oh... did I mention that the architect thinks (as do I) that the pattern should be on a 45 degree angle? :BangHead:
:help:
I'm about ready to start hanging about 1000 bd ft of 3.25" wide T&G Jatoba flooring on my walls.
Uh huh, you didn't misread that... on my walls. :rotflm:
I wish it was straight forward solid wall application... but alas, I'm pulling the crazy button out and essentially pushing it real hard. In that I am going to try to reconstitute boards out of em; a pattern of 1, 2, and 3 boards wide.
This insanity is compounded by needing to place them a very precise distance apart, than cannot vary more than 1/4" variation total, across the face of any single wall.
To take it even further down the road of needing a ticket to Dix Hill, the boards are needing to sit on top of a layer of insulation, that is separated by furring strips, which is what I'm going to try to attach to....
But just to prove I'm a tad beyond nuts... I need to keep as much of the rigid insulation on the wall and as few furring strips as possible.
I figure making "planks" 3 wide should be cake work. 2 planks wide is gonna be tricky... but single board width is flat out gonna drive me nuts the only way I can figure it.
Each package contains 2, 3, 4, and 5 foot long pieces. Most of the packages of the flooring have several full 5' pieces in them, as best I can tell.
I kinda' think the 5 footers will be best to use as single board width. With the shorter boards being used to make the wider boards.
Once the boards are "made up", I will need to remove the tongue...
The rigid insulation comes in 4'x8' sheets, and while I know there's a way to make the insulation come out for the most efficient furring strip usage @ 16", I'm not sure how well that's gonna work out using a 1x4 furring strip with 24", 36", 48" and 60" boards.
So, my main question is, how far apart do I dare make my furring strips to secure the jatoba to the wall?
It's certainly a HEAVY wood, with each 22 sq ft bundle weighing a little over 100 lbs., I kinda' worry about just securing it with nails every 24 inches.
The next big question is what to do about securing the boards together to make a wide board. Should I glue them with a decent wood glue –or– should I just rely on the main fastening method to attach them to the furring?
I don't really know how stable jatoba is. But, it sure seems like it is. I've had the wood stored in a regular "u-store-it" facility for almost 5 years, and there sure doesn't seem to be any warping, cup or twist to have occurred... and the T&G's are still super tight just in the bundles.
Oh... did I mention that the architect thinks (as do I) that the pattern should be on a 45 degree angle? :BangHead:
:help:
