jatoba dining table, just completed

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pviser

New User
paul
Just finished a dining table for my daughter. Jatoba is the primary wood, with ebony and curly maple accents. Challenges included splayed legs, which fried my brain throughout the project keeping straight the 94, 96, and 90-degree angles. Another challenge was tremendous mass with top dimensions 80" X 37" X 1 1/2". The four large boards for the top far exceeded the capacity of my jointer, thus requiring jigs to do the face jointing with my planer. I used the technique of gluing parallel poplar rails to the jointed edges of my workpiece, then ripping them free after planing. Weight was a challenge with jatoba's density of 56 lbs/ft3 compared to, for example, walnut's density of 37 lbs/ft3. I needed to plan my work during times that my son was available to help move the heavy pieces. Design elements include underbevelling of the top to show a graceful 7/8" edge, maple cock beading to accent the apron arches, pyramidal ebony plugs to cap the pegging of my MT joints, and an eight-sided inlay at the bottom of the legs to give the pleasing look of sock feet.
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MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Fantastic. Great attention to the details. The inlays on the legs are awesome.
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
What a great design and kudos to your attention to detail!!

It will stand strong for many years, I am quite sure.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

Wayne
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
Absolutely BEAUTIFUL Paul. :eusa_clap The wood combinations work really well together. What is the finish? I think you should submit this for next year's calendar contest.
 

mlzettl

Matt
Corporate Member
Great piece, and nice work. The details help set it apart, and the original design doesn't hurt either!

Matt
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Spectacular! Love the way the arch in the apron looks.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Very nicely done from design to finished product. :icon_cheers

A few questions:

1. What's it like to work with Jatoba? Its characteristics include hard, dense, interlocking grain, and tough on tools.

2. Why did you choose the 94 and 96 degree angles in the design? Why not just 94 or 96 degrees throughout?

3. Angled tenons. Can you describe the process and how you did that? Your last picture shows off-center tenons. What's behind that choice?

I'm just curious. :icon_scra
 

RandyJ

Randy
Corporate Member
Remarkable craftsmanship and excellent design skills. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 

pviser

New User
paul
Thank you for the positive feedback. I really appreciate it. I will try to address the questions:

1. The finish is oil-based polyurethane, brushed, three coats. All finishing was done after fine-tuning of joints and prior to assembly. Glue areas were masked, of course. After each coat, I use a 1/2" paring chisel to level off gently any bits of dust. Each of the first two coats are sanded with 220. The final coat is rubbed with #0000 steel wool which leaves the surface with a silky feel.

2. As for the working characteristics of the wood, the sheer weight was the main problem with a project of this size. Interlocking grain was not a problem because I used my double drum sander for abrasive planing. It takes a while, but tearout does not occur. I didn't notice any excessive dulling of my tools.

3. The 94 and 96-degree angles were decided upon by eye. I made the legs first. They are tapered on all four sides. Then I marked the table top on my floor with masking tape, then placed the legs on the floor and decided on an angle that looked right to me. I then measured the inside angle to be 96 degrees and the outside angle to be 94 degrees. I made tri squares for these two angles, one of which I showed in a photo.

4. The off-center tenons were for two reasons. First, I wanted to leave plenty of wood above the mortises in the legs. Some people would have used a haunched tenon to address this issue. Second, I wanted to keep the tenon width under 4" so I could minimize the risk of wood movement problems. Some people may have addressed this concern with a double tenon, leaving the bottom one unglued with room to move. As for the angle of the tenons, that was so the tenons would meet the legs at right angles.
 

dwminnich

New User
Dave
Very nice! Having worked with Jatoba, I can sympathize with the weight. Any idea how heavy the finished table is?


--dave
 
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