Installing Metal Inserts for Wood

[Flute Maker]

I used some 5/16" and 3/8" metal inserts for threads on this project/jig not long ago. It was in soft wood.They worked out fine.

Now I need to put some 5/16"-18 in some oak on this same project.Ive tried drilling different sizes on the holes but I always pull the insert out when backing the guide bolt out...

Im using this method and it worked fine in the soft wood...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIhEqoKE8Dc

Im ready to finish this up. Help!!

 

[Jim M.]

Try putting a drop of CA glue on the insert before driving in, don't go crazy, just enough to hold it in place.

 

[allisnut]

The inserts I have used were made to install with an allen wrench. I've never gone to the extra trouble shown in the video using a drill press. Neat idea for alignment, but if the hole is drilled square to the face then I'd think the insert would follow it.

 

[ehpoole]

The addition of almost any sort of glue will solve your problem. I have used both PVA (wood) glue and epoxy. I’m not as fond as some with regard to superglue for such (namely because superglue is a very brittle glue and it is more difficult than others to ensure it never sets up too quickly if you encounter any sort of issue). But I’m also very much a “too each there own” and the right glue will generally be the glue that has worked well for you in the past.

If you wish to avoid the mushrooming of the wood around the inserts then you can prevent such by using a bolt tap to precut the threads for the insert as they are typically standard bolt threads. The tap eliminates the excess wood in the threads that otherwise gets pushed out of the way when you drive the inserts in and that added thickness of the metal threads plus the displaced wood is what creates the mushrooming around the insert.

 

[danmart77]

I have used the 1/4 -20 for holding the fence in position on the tool below. I have two methods for installation:

1. I make a threaded rod 4" long I put 2 nuts up 1 1/2" up from the entry end. I put two nuts on the other end. These will be use to put the wrench on the rod and turn. I have a drill press, its a good idea but it is not needed. Use your eyes.

When the insert is in place loosen the nuts against the insert and back out the threaded rod.

2. For impossible hard wood I have drilled and used a tap to thread the wood. They aren't cheap but if you plan on making a bunch they might be worth the trouble.

Lastly, the man in the video sounds like he's done the task many times and he has good ideas. Like many other youtube videos I'm discouraged by his encouragement to put the insert tip slot in first. If you look at the thread pattern on the 1/4 20 and the larger ones it does not follow his logic.

Bad info. Taken a step further-- it his theory held any water-- taps would be tip cut like he suggests to help cutting.

There's an insert installed in curly maple with the slot up. The chipping around the top was not from the insert. It was from a dull twist bit that lazy Dan just kept using when it needed sharpening.

The tool is over 20 years old and shows no sign of insert backing out trouble. I never use glue.





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[zdorsch]

I recently had used the EZ lock inserts in pine (old bowling alley lane) with success using their insert tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Drive-..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=VJW79NB1XKZFAVAPJK1D

I didn’t like spending $10 on a bit, but it made install easy and it works with several different inserts. After drilling the insert hole, I put the insert bit in the drill press chuck and spun the pulley by hand. I also coated the insert in slip ease.

 

[nn4jw]

I use the T wrench made for threaded inserts.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/t-wrench-for-5-16-18-inserts

I match the drill bit size to the outer diameter of the barrel of the insert right at the screwdriver slot. I've never had any problems that way and I've mounted the inserts in all kinds of wood.

 

[marinosr]

Do you mean you pull it all the way out when you back out the guide bolt, or it just comes out 1/2 turn or so? If the latter, just turn it back in with a screwdriver using the slot on the top (or allen wrench if it's that type).

I use threaded inserts on EVERYTHING and have almost never bothered with any of these overwrought ways of installing them. I just use a screwdriver. (NB: The screwdriver head should be a dead-on fit for the slot of the insert, or you will run the risk of stripping it.) If you put soap on the threads they will slide into any wood like butter, even hard maple. If your pilot hole is straight, then they're going to follow that, the path of least resistance, into the wood... they aren't going to go askew unless you really botched your pilot hole.

 

[Jeff]

Now I need to put some 5/16"-18 in some oak on this same project.Ive tried drilling different sizes on the holes but I always pull the insert out when backing the guide bolt out...

It sounds like you haven't loosened both nuts before going in reverse to remove the guide bolt despite drilling different size pilot holes.

If you're application doesn't get much stress then a few drops of epoxy glue will work too.

 

[ErnieM]

I use the method shown in the video too, and I find it works well in softwood. For me, his recommendation to use a bit equal in diameter to the core diameter of the insert makes a hole that is too small for hardwoods. For the inserts I use, the difference between the core diameter and the thread diameter is about .100". I find it much easier to install when the hole is around 1/32" smaller than the threaded diameter (.031"). I've never had the problem of the insert backing itself out unless, like Jeff said above, I forgot to loosen both nuts before backing the bolts out. Using some epoxy is fine, but may make the insert a little more permanent than you planned for.

 

[Flute Maker]

I got them put in.Probably operator error lol!! Thanks guys !