Information & Help...I think.

[woodrat]

Ok, so I went and bought a LN #4 because of all the
good reports here on NCWW. Not
blaming anyone for talking me into it. Was my decision.

I don't know if I have a problem or not and was hoping
someone that is really into hand tools could shed some
light on my 'problem'. If in fact, it is a problem.

OK, to the point. After getting this great looking piece
of artwork home, I found that I could not get a very thin
'curl' or even a thick one without the plane chattering
a lot.

I adjusted the mouth kermit as suggested in directions,
set the chip breaker as directed, tightened the cap screw
just a bit. It still wants to chatter...on pine no less, going
with the grain. All the above adjustments were at the direction
of LN factory personnel. :nah:

Oh, and at their suggestion, I did sharpen the blade.
(Thought that was a shot in the dark as they are supposed
to 'cut right out of the box', but I did it anyway). Still chatters. :BangHead:

The mystery here is that my 30+ year old el-cheapo Stanley
Handyman actually does a much better job than the new LN.

What am I doing wrong, or are my expectations too high???
Are there 'secrets' I should know about?? :dontknow:

Yes, the blade is in correctly...before someone asks. :rotflm:

Thanks,

 

[nelsone]

Don't know if I can help much since I don't have one of them high dollar planes. Have you tried planing some hardwood? I think they have different frog angles available for different types of wood, do you know which one you got? Try hitting a piece of maple or walnut with it.

 

[woodrat]

Don't know if I can help much since I don't have one of them high dollar planes. Have you tried planing some hardwood? I think they have different frog angles available for different types of wood, do you know which one you got? Try hitting a piece of maple or walnut with it.

I have tried it on oak...same thing. It is a L-N #4 with adjustable frog ie
mouth opening.

Thanks,

 

[Travis]

Hand planing seems to be mystery to me sometimes as well. I have a Stanley # 4 with a Hock Blade and chip breaker which was supposed to make it perform like LN #4. Can't say I could tell a big difference. Maybe someone can suggest a class in hand tools techniques.

 

[DaveO]

Are you sticking your tongue out of the left side of your mouth, and closing your right eye while using it??:icon_scra:icon_scra
I've got no clue, it sounds like you've done everything that I could suggest already. If you want to bring it over to my shop that would be cool. Not that I think I could help you much, but I just want to hold it


Dave

 

[froglips]

No offense intended, but could you be plane be, uhm, upside down?

I'm curious about the wood first, is it flattened? By say a Power Planer or a hand tool jointer (like a #7)?

A #4 smoother is meant to take a few final passes on stock already flat.

I ask, as stock in a rougher state would make a #4 buck like a bronco. Until I saw the christopher schwarz dvd, Course, Medium and Fine did hand planing and the differences in the planes finally make sense to me.

I'm only guessing, but is your old stanley a #5? Do you use it for heavier operations?

A few suggestions, wax or oil the sole. A bit of lubrication on the sole is pretty helpful. (That sounds like a beer ad too!)

Most things I've read also suggest a very slight crown or convex profile to the cutting edge. A square iron can run the risk of digging in, making cuts harder or gouges.

The blade may be extended a bit too far for a #4, aka taking too heavy a cut for smoother. These planes are meant to take a few thousandths of an inch shavings. You might try backing the iron all the way out, and very slowly extending it until it starts to cut.

Or, you could just give that worthless piece of scrap metal to me.

Jim

 

[woodrat]

No offense intended, but could you be plane be, uhm, upside down?

I'm curious about the wood first, is it flattened? By say a Power Planer or a hand tool jointer (like a #7)?

A #4 smoother is meant to take a few final passes on stock already flat.

I ask, as stock in a rougher state would make a #4 buck like a bronco. Until I saw the christopher schwarz dvd, Course, Medium and Fine did hand planing and the differences in the planes finally make sense to me.

I'm only guessing, but is your old stanley a #5? Do you use it for heavier operations?

A few suggestions, wax or oil the sole. A bit of lubrication on the sole is pretty helpful. (That sounds like a beer ad too!)

Most things I've read also suggest a very slight crown or convex profile to the cutting edge. A square iron can run the risk of digging in, making cuts harder or gouges.

The blade may be extended a bit too far for a #4, aka taking too heavy a cut for smoother. These planes are meant to take a few thousandths of an inch shavings. You might try backing the iron all the way out, and very slowly extending it until it starts to cut.

Or, you could just give that worthless piece of scrap metal to me.

Jim

Jim,

I'm pretty sure the plane is right side up. I've never tried to plane wood
with the knob and tote in a downward position before, have you?:wsmile:
The wood has been run through a thickness planer already. I have waxed
all the surfaces, including the blade itself and the chip breaker.

Blade has been adjusted from not touching the wood down 'til it just barely
does. Can't hardly snag a finger nail on it. When I can get it to start a cut,
then it starts the chattering.

It seems to me that I've done all that is recommended and advised. But
there has to be something I'm still over looking. I'll keep digging.

The old Stanley is a #4 also. I can get curls so thin with it that you can
read the newspaper through them. :nah: Well, almost.

Thanks for the input Jim and....nah...I'll keep working with it. It's bound
to be an operator problem.



Thanks,

 

[woodrat]

Are you sticking your tongue out of the left side of your mouth, and closing your right eye while using it??:icon_scra:icon_scra
I've got no clue, it sounds like you've done everything that I could suggest already. If you want to bring it over to my shop that would be cool. Not that I think I could help you much, but I just want to hold it


Dave

DaveO,

I can bring it over and let you hold it for a few minutes if you want. :roll:

Thanks,

 

[Larry Rose]

Something has to be loose. Either the frog is not tightened or seated properly or the iron isn't seated properly against the frog or the cap iron isn't tight enough. I think Jim meant the iron could be upside down (bevel up). I have several L-Ns and they are a dream to use. If you really do have a problem, they are wonderful people to work with and will help anyway they can.

 

[woodrat]

Re: Information & Help...I think. UPDATE!!!

Well, first let me thank everyone for the help/advice.

I went back to the shop this morning with my mind set
on making this thing work the way it should.

Took it all apart to make sure all the surfaces were clean
with no obstructions. Re-set the blade/chip breaker clearance,
put a new coat of wax on everything, and reassembled.

Made sure the cap screw was tight, actually gave it about
1/4 turn more, checked the blade squareness to mouth.

I can now say that I can get shavings in the .001" to .002"
thickness AND NO CHATTER. WAHOO!!!! Works like a dream
now.

Must have been a little something under blade or chip breaker.
Or just a quarter turn more on the cap screw squashed things
together enough to get rid of the chatter. Whatever it is/was,
I'm now a happy camper.

Thanks,

 

[nelsone]

Glad you got it worked out!!!:icon_thum

 

[froglips]

Congrats! A lesson for us all, be persistent. The wood sprites and tool sprites might just stop their playful little games!

I eagerly await your next post on your hand plane adventures.

Jim