If old cars are found in barns ...
- Thread starter kserdar
- Start date
They are certainly worth cleaning and trying them out.
I had one of those Delta Planers. Sniped very badly, but if you could donate the leading and trailing 6" of each workpiece to the snipe, it did a pretty good job. The other trick was to keep several 2' long pieces of scrap handy and start one in to lift the rollers and take the snipe and then start your good piece after the scrap was in 6-8". Do this again before the end of your work piece with the second piece of scrap being inserted 6-8" before the end of your work piece. Again, the scrap would get the snipe and not the work piece. I also used a 6' length of laminated shelving material with a stop attached to the underside to keep the shelf from being fed through the planer. I would wax this shelving so the work piece and scrap pieces would slide easily through the planer. Then I came into enough spare money to buy a DeWalt 735 and gave my Delta and the shelf to my son-in-law, along with training on how to avoid snipe with it.
Charley
I had one of those Delta Planers. Sniped very badly, but if you could donate the leading and trailing 6" of each workpiece to the snipe, it did a pretty good job. The other trick was to keep several 2' long pieces of scrap handy and start one in to lift the rollers and take the snipe and then start your good piece after the scrap was in 6-8". Do this again before the end of your work piece with the second piece of scrap being inserted 6-8" before the end of your work piece. Again, the scrap would get the snipe and not the work piece. I also used a 6' length of laminated shelving material with a stop attached to the underside to keep the shelf from being fed through the planer. I would wax this shelving so the work piece and scrap pieces would slide easily through the planer. Then I came into enough spare money to buy a DeWalt 735 and gave my Delta and the shelf to my son-in-law, along with training on how to avoid snipe with it.
Charley
The little Porter Cable model 100 router looks like the only thing worth the trouble. Its mostly aluminum.
Quick update:
Both DeWalt sanders work after blowing out the debris. Both need new power cords.
The PC router turns on OK and spins. Also needs new power cord.
Both the collet and bit are very rusty - Anyone know how to get the bit out? I only find one nut and no spindle lock.
Planer is still a big unknown - The screws and 4 corner posts looks like a rusty mess. So, no up/down movement yet.
I applied some PB Blaster to see if it helps. The in/out feed shelves look like a lost cause and what ever is under the knives looks lost to rust.
The motor is currently to low to see if it spins.
Both DeWalt sanders work after blowing out the debris. Both need new power cords.
The PC router turns on OK and spins. Also needs new power cord.
Both the collet and bit are very rusty - Anyone know how to get the bit out? I only find one nut and no spindle lock.
Planer is still a big unknown - The screws and 4 corner posts looks like a rusty mess. So, no up/down movement yet.
I applied some PB Blaster to see if it helps. The in/out feed shelves look like a lost cause and what ever is under the knives looks lost to rust.
The motor is currently to low to see if it spins.
The PC router is an industrial type that takes two wrenches: 9/16 & 13/16
The great thing about that router is its all-metal base and short armature. It makes for a very rigid platform for the armature. No deflection like tall routers tend to have plus no deflection from plastic components.
I don't know about the bearings since its been a while since I've changed the ones in mine. Probably an 87502 or 6202 bottom and a standard 608 in the top. You'll know after you take it apart. Judging from the years of neglect, the oil in the bearings has likely long evaporated leaving the soap type binder. Running it without new bearings will be high risk. Not a lot of routers last 40-50 years like that one.
The planer sounds really iffy. I've done the rusted column restoration on a DeWalt before (below). It took hours of piddling and fooling around with rusty parts just to get things loose. Once the motor housing goes up and down, it should be removed so the insides of the column ways can be cleaned even though they are aluminum. Rust is all it it takes to ruin a machine. Rusted in fasteners that can't be removed is just a start.
The great thing about that router is its all-metal base and short armature. It makes for a very rigid platform for the armature. No deflection like tall routers tend to have plus no deflection from plastic components.
I don't know about the bearings since its been a while since I've changed the ones in mine. Probably an 87502 or 6202 bottom and a standard 608 in the top. You'll know after you take it apart. Judging from the years of neglect, the oil in the bearings has likely long evaporated leaving the soap type binder. Running it without new bearings will be high risk. Not a lot of routers last 40-50 years like that one.
The planer sounds really iffy. I've done the rusted column restoration on a DeWalt before (below). It took hours of piddling and fooling around with rusty parts just to get things loose. Once the motor housing goes up and down, it should be removed so the insides of the column ways can be cleaned even though they are aluminum. Rust is all it it takes to ruin a machine. Rusted in fasteners that can't be removed is just a start.
Are you telling me that the part with a slot cut into it is supposed to be a nut?
If that is true. The original owner did a fine job of making it round.
Sigh.
Rookies and tourists. What can you do?
I sometimes wish vise grip owners should have to go through some licensing program.
Yes, when that came from the factory, it did indeed succumb to a 9/16 wrench.
Likely a WTB ad on OWWM.org will find you a new collet if you can't find one on line. The PC models 100 and 150 use the same collet.
The last photo shows both the collet and the collet holder that screws on to the armature. To remove that, use an air wrench that does 7000 rpm. About four bursts of that high speed hammering usually breaks it loose. Electric impact wrenches won't work. The last two photos show the process being used to remove the nut from a Porter Cable 690 router.
Rookies and tourists. What can you do?
I sometimes wish vise grip owners should have to go through some licensing program.
Yes, when that came from the factory, it did indeed succumb to a 9/16 wrench.
Likely a WTB ad on OWWM.org will find you a new collet if you can't find one on line. The PC models 100 and 150 use the same collet.
The last photo shows both the collet and the collet holder that screws on to the armature. To remove that, use an air wrench that does 7000 rpm. About four bursts of that high speed hammering usually breaks it loose. Electric impact wrenches won't work. The last two photos show the process being used to remove the nut from a Porter Cable 690 router.
I expect it will work. It looks like someone is making them out of 9/16" CR bar stock. How hardened and tempered it is can be anybody's guess. For sure the one that's in there now could use an upgrade. In the early 1980s I made a 3/8" router collet for a 690 router and though rarely used, its still good today. I do quickly admit it didn't have any threads to wear out.
in a barn? How big are you talking about? A giant ferris wheel could have a diameter of a several hundred feet. and then there are barn doors...It is really nice band saw inside burn on my commute way. Just visible from outside
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"in a barn? How big are you talking about? A giant ferris wheel could have a diameter of a several hundred feet. and then there are barn doors..."
I guess you have never hung around after the end of a carnival and watched the Ferris Wheel be dis-assembled for transport. They are taken apart and loaded onto a semi trailer. A crew of two can do this in under an hour, and mostly from the ground level. Going up takes a little longer, but the technique is nearly the same. A barn large enough for a semi box trailer would hold one easily.
Watching this process makes you wonder how safe they are when assembled.
Charley
I guess you have never hung around after the end of a carnival and watched the Ferris Wheel be dis-assembled for transport. They are taken apart and loaded onto a semi trailer. A crew of two can do this in under an hour, and mostly from the ground level. Going up takes a little longer, but the technique is nearly the same. A barn large enough for a semi box trailer would hold one easily.
Watching this process makes you wonder how safe they are when assembled.
Charley
Oh... they disassembled it. How disappointing.
They do it all from the platform. The seats are removed as each position it rotated to the platform. Then the spreaders between each seat position are removed. All of the long arms from the pivot are then folded together, and hydraulic rams tilt the towers and long arms down to the truck bed. The seats and spreaders are then loaded onto the truck bed and then the truck is driven off. Usually only 2 guys are needed to do this. Setting up goes much the same way. Pins and keeper rings are the usual assembly method, but permanent installations are bolted together. To keep the seats clean, they have special made covers that snap over each. These are put on every night, in case it rains, and also before putting them onto the truck. Unless something goes wrong there is never a need to climb much higher than the platform.
Charley
Charley
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