I have a log!

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Sharp Blade

New User
Anna-Catherine
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I am in need of some help with sawing a 250lb. Bradford Pear log sitting in my driveway! I want to make a 2 inch (seat) bench top out of it! I need help because I can't seem to get a sawyer to even look at it to run it through a mill. Any ideas? It's too big for a chainsaw!

More photos are in my gallery!
 
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Mark Gottesman

New User
Mark
They probably are worried that is has some sort of tramp metal in it. Someone on here may know a mobile sawyer who can work with you.

I can think of no easy way (or safe way) to get what you want.

Out of curiosity what are the dimensions on the log. Is it a trunk section with clear grain?

You probably want to seal the ends to stop it from splitting.
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
Not many mobile sawyers are willing to haul their equipment and set up for just one log. If so, the cost to you would be prohibitive. Your best bet would probably be to find someone who can load it on a truck or trailer and take it to a mill. Then bring the cut boards back. They might take some of the lumber in exchange.

But you'll still have the metal issue that Mark mentioned.
 

Sharp Blade

New User
Anna-Catherine
I can get it onto a truck, but one guy said it would not be worth his time. I sent him photos of the thing too. :-(
 

Sharp Blade

New User
Anna-Catherine
There should be no metal in it at all! This grew in my front yard since being a seedling! I've known this tree for most of it's life!
 

YooperFinn

New User
Thomas
A few points to consider when looking to have your log sawn:
  • some mills have a minimum length for the log to rest on the bunks and for the clamp to hold the log, typically 4'. Shorter can be done, and usally requires additional setup by the sawyer.
  • straight sections work well on a mill, but multiple forks, branches, crotches turn into either knots or unique patterns in the boards, which can make distintive lumber in some species may take more time to mill.
  • sawyers usally charge by the hour to saw one or two logs that you bring to them, plus blade charge if metal is hit, and log handling. Most sawyers are very reasonalbe on the charges, but keep in mind most of them are using equipment that costs $25,000 and up (portable bandmills with hydrualics) and there is a cost associated with operating that equipment and the sawyers knowledge.
Overall there is a high level of satisfaction from having your own log sawn into lumber which then can be used for any number of projects. We sawyers are glad to provide that service and work very hard to make the most out of customers logs.
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
I've sawed a log roughly that size myself. I used a chainsaw to roughly square up the sides and then took it to the bandsaw to slice into boards. I'd be happy to help, but I'm a bit of a drive from you. Perhaps someone else closer can help.
 

Sharp Blade

New User
Anna-Catherine
Thanks, I have a fourteen inch bandsaw and I think a guy down the road a bit has a 19" incher! I am going to see him later today! I may do the chainsaw thing, it will just require a little redesign that;s all! :)
 

Sharp Blade

New User
Anna-Catherine
I've been thinking and for what I am trying to get out of this one log is really only one project! I hate to waste wood and that is what I feel I would be doing with a chainsaw approach! The redesign is my cheapest option here. The wood needs to dry of course and that will be hard on my limited spaced garage! LOL I may see if I can get someone with a kiln to lend me some space for a while. i'll let everyone know what I do here! Thanks to you all for your valued advice!
 

YooperFinn

New User
Thomas
If you were closer, I would be glad to mill the log for you. You can try Joe Whitely at Carolina ASC, 704-982-1673, he may know a sawmill close to you that would cut the log on a sawmill. The benifit of the sawmill is both easier log handling, and a consistant dimension on the finished log.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
From the looks of the size in the picture, that log can be milled with a chainsaw, using the Granburg Alaska chainsaw mill attachment on a 30 or 36" bar. Would take a Stihl 440 or 660 saw or equivalent, tho. IF you do that, and want the best results, take a fore plane with the mouth set wide and smooth out the saw marks before stacking and stickering. I have only dried black cherry in the fruitwood category, and sweetgum which is also cross-grained. I have found it best to strap it tight with cargo straps about every other sticker to prevent twisting and cupping. Retighten the straps after a few weeks as the wood loses moisture. With our current weather, that may be a while.

I also spray my slabs with borax/water solution to minimize bug attack. As humid as it is now, I would use 1" minimum stickers and place it where it will get good air flow to prevent mold build-up.

JMTCW

Go.
 
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