How to sand this???

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tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
I've planed off the top and bottom layers using my CNC, and will sand the top and bottom with my orbital sander, but what's a good powertool method of sanding the sides to get back to bare wood? Hand sanding isn't really an option for me due to some elbow and hand issues. My orbital sander is too large to get into the curves on this.

Saw this on Klingspor's site: https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/kx11307/ but it is pricey (wonder it it's 10% off during the celebration in 2 weeks)

(on a side note, can anyone ID this wood)

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dwminnich

New User
Dave
Spindle sander is a good idea, if you have one. Else, a sanding spindle for a drill press would be a less expensive option. If you don't have a drill press, you could chuck a sanding spindle in a hand drill, but that will be a lot less precise.


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jgpncll

New User
Jeremy
Spindle sander would be the way to go. I have a WEN spindle sander that has been used 1 time that I need to sell. I used it once on a pinewood derby car for my son. It will also come with a 18 pack of assorted grit sanding sleeves on top of the sleeves that came with it. $80 if you are interested and I am in Knightdale.
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
Spindle sander? Ridgid makes a good one.

Thought of that, but the sides are angled, and it's too heavy for me to hold and run along the edges.


Spindle sander is a good idea, if you have one. Else, a sanding spindle for a drill press would be a less expensive option. If you don't have a drill press, you could chuck a sanding spindle in a hand drill, but that will be a lot less precise.

No drill press, and similar issue of holding and moving if I did have one. May have to try to find a sanding spindle I can chuck up in hand drill.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
You may find that a flap sander is the easiest way to go and retain much of those countours.

You can also use spindle sanders that allow you to angle the table to better match the angle of the cookie. The Ridgid OSS can be angled and most droll presses permit adjusting the table angle though you would have to make a special table to overlay the drill press table and still allow the spindle sander to drop below the working level of the table (unless the spindle diameter is small enough and the table opening large envoy to accommodate the spindle even when tilted. That said, side loading drill press chucks is not ideal as it can cause the Morse taper spindle to drop since drill press chucks are designed to accommodate compression loading rather than side loading.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
5" round ROS sander, itll take less time than talking about it.

I respectfully disagree (to be clear, as I understand it we are referring to the angled live edge/perimeter of the cookie and not the flat endgrain area — if I misunderstand then I apologize for any confusion), not because it could not be done, but rather because when there is so little surface engaged with an random orbital sander two problems tend to come into play with many random orbit sanders. First, with such little contact area engaged with the sanding pad it is often very difficult to keep the brake from engaging on most modern random orbital sanders as the motor usually disengages when pressure is relieved. The second issue is that when trying to sand such an irregular surface with many interior nooks and crannies one tends to have to use the edge of the sanding disc which can make it very challenging to keep from gouging the work since all your force is focused on a very small area of contact rather than over the full ~19 square inches of the sanding pad.

If we are talking about the endgrain area then I would very much agree in the use of a 5 or 6 inch random orbital sander as there are only a few power sanding tools better suited (such as drum and belt sanders), but they also tend to cost far more than a decent electric or pneumatic ROS.

Or at least that is my $0.02 — in the end, though, what ever gets the job done and works for the OP will be what is best for their particular situation.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
With all the variations I think you might need several tools. I would start with a angle grinder with a brass wire brush, that should clean up 90% Then I would try a 3" ROS like a Festool RO90 followed by a much small sander like a Proxxon. Lastly I would use a soft flap sander on a drill. I just happen to have these tools. If you want to bring it over I can find some time on Sunday
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
I respectfully disagree (to be clear, as I understand it we are referring to the angled live edge/perimeter of the cookie and not the flat endgrain area — if I misunderstand then I apologize for any confusion), not because it could not be done, but rather because when there is so little surface engaged with an random orbital sander two problems tend to come into play with many random orbit sanders. First, with such little contact area engaged with the sanding pad it is often very difficult to keep the brake from engaging on most modern random orbital sanders as the motor usually disengages when pressure is relieved. The second issue is that when trying to sand such an irregular surface with many interior nooks and crannies one tends to have to use the edge of the sanding disc which can make it very challenging to keep from gouging the work since all your force is focused on a very small area of contact rather than over the full ~19 square inches of the sanding pad.

If we are talking about the endgrain area then I would very much agree in the use of a 5 or 6 inch random orbital sander as there are only a few power sanding tools better suited (such as drum and belt sanders), but they also tend to cost far more than a decent electric or pneumatic ROS.

Or at least that is my $0.02 — in the end, though, what ever gets the job done and works for the OP will be what is best for their particular situation.

I also respectfully disagree... Ive done several live edge tables this way. sand it and move on... you guys spend more time fretting over how to do something than doing anything.
 

ednl

ed
Senior User
I found this inflatable drum to be EXACTLY what I needed to smooth the live edge on an eight-foot long walnut slab. Although at different times, and in different places, I also used a wire wheel, a flexible disk sander, a flap sander, and a whole-lot-a hand sanding!!
ht15000
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
Thanks for all the suggestions, going to look and see what I have and what I'd need to get. Phil thanks for offer, I'm tied up most this weekend but if I don't have the tools I'll get in touch and see if another day works.

Ethan - correct, it was the sides, not the end grain. For the endgrain I'll use my orbital sander.
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
My off-hand guess is a cypress knee. We have a wall clock that's similarly shaped, like these cookies....

https://www.etsy.com/shop/CypressClocksThings

OTH, why bother sanding the edges at all? The bark is gone and the edges are brownish compared to the freshly sanded surface but that's not ugly.

It does look alot like those. Sanding off the sides for practice and so I can refinish with a consistent finish on all sides, this was a freebie out of a foreclosure, so I don't mind messing up on it as a learning experience.
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
Klingspor sells a sanding mop kit you can run with a hand drill. https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs32100/ https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/cl10000/ https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs32080/ or if you have a bag full of offcuts from Klingspor's sandpaper bargain bin and a spare 30 minutes...[video=youtube;yU6bNCiAAZk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yU6bNCiAAZk[/video]

Looks like I'm headed to Klingspor's in the morning (once I call to make sure they have in stock)
 
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