How to choose the right bandsaw

[Ray2.0]

Hi everyone , I'm the new guy in here and like most of us , we come in with a question
But first please let me to introduce myself
As you might already have notice , I'm from the West Coast and prior to that i came from this island just south of the Straight of Gilbralter around 300 milles west of North Africa ( called Madeira Island )
So here we go , I've been looking for a used / pre owned Bandsaw . The thing is that im in for something that won't break the budget , but also it won't need to be replaced in a couple years
So my question is , how do I go into this without having to find out that i did a rookie mistake ?
I'm at peace with myself that this is the place to get the info I'm looking for
Many thanks

 

[creasman]

First, welcome to the forum! As for the bandsaw it depends on what you want to do with it. If you plan on resawing, then you'll want more heft. If space is an issue and you work on small projects, then a table top model might be the right choice. Let us know how you plan to use it, how much space you have, etc. These frequently come up on the forum for sale.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

If you could find a used 14" like the one below, it would probably be a good starter saw. They are made by a number of companies. The one below happens to be Delta, but they can also be Jet, Grizzly, Powermatic, etc., etc. They come up for sale frequently on the used sites, including this forum ranging anywhere from $200 - $500. I'm sure some others on here will point out some of the things to look for in determining if the saw is in good condition and the price is fair.

 

[Ray2.0]

First, welcome to the forum! As for the bandsaw it depends on what you want to do with it. If you plan on resawing, then you'll want more heft. If space is an issue and you work on small projects, then a table top model might be the right choice. Let us know how you plan to use it, how much space you have, etc. These frequently come up on the forum for sale.

Thanks for your response, yes , I'm planning on doing some resawing ( specially from small logs that one can collect from tree trimmers , but not thicker than 12"/14" i think
If I ran into something bigger that that i can always use a chainsaw to slim it down , or take it to a place where they can slice it for me

 

[HITCH-]

There a 14 inch Jepson in Raleigh (not mine) for $100

14” Band Saw - tools - by owner - sale

Jepson 14” Bandsaw with Carter Magfence 2. Needs some love, but motor works. Fence is in greats shape. Home Made guard and space block, had issues with saw tension. Must pick up.

raleigh.craigslist.org

 

[creasman]

I have a 14" Delta bandsaw with the 8" riser block for increased height of cut. It has a 3hp motor (I think) that runs on 110V. I use a 3/4" blade when resawing. I bought this saw new. No real complaints. It is a great saw. I made a custom table and fence. I also purchased an after-market tensioning lever.

I also have a 18" Laguna that I purchased used last year. It runs on 220V and is a much heftier saw. I plan to dedicate this one to resawing. It accepts a 1-1/4" blade. One of my upcoming projects is to make a good resaw fence for the saw.

One of the downsides of all bandsaws is changing the blades. It requires adjusting, tensioning, setting the guides, etc. If you plan to mostly resaw logs like you describe, then I recommend going with one of the larger bandsaws and use 220V current if available. If you do go with a 14" like the Delta, then you'll definitely want the riser block. Of course, that changes the blade length so keep that in mind.

 

[Ray2.0]

I have a 14" Delta bandsaw with the 8" riser block for increased height of cut. It has a 3hp motor (I think) that runs on 110V. I use a 3/4" blade when resawing. I bought this saw new. No real complaints. It is a great saw. I made a custom table and fence. I also purchased an after-market tensioning lever.

I also have a 18" Laguna that I purchased used last year. It runs on 220V and is a much heftier saw. I plan to dedicate this one to resawing. It accepts a 1-1/4" blade. One of my upcoming projects is to make a good resaw fence for the saw.

One of the downsides of all bandsaws is changing the blades. It requires adjusting, tensioning, setting the guides, etc. If you plan to mostly resaw logs like you describe, then I recommend going with one of the larger bandsaws and use 220V current if available. If you do go with a 14" like the Delta, then you'll definitely want the riser block. Of course, that changes the blade length so keep that in mind.

Wow , I'm getting unbiased , faster ,more and better info from the members of this forum than by using Google
I knew that this was the place to come in and ask questions regarding just about anything related to wood and woodworking machines and how to go about
I'm so glad I found this place , i will continue to look around for that saw even more so that now I have a better picture of what to better fit my needs
Thanks again to Bill , Hitch and Creasman for the valuable information

Many thanks from the West

 

[Dee2]

Go over to Saw Mill Creek. John K Jordan posted a video on using the bandsaw.

 

[Ray2.0]

Go over to Saw Mill Creek. John K Jordan posted a video on using the bandsaw.

Will do

 

[bob vaughan]

Good refurbished resaw band saws can be had at used machinery dealers.

Or you can get an old 14" delta and keep adding riser blocks

 

[tvrgeek]

My experience: Everyone has their own, so take this as one view, not an absolute.
I had two smaller used band saws. Spent money on tires, guides, etc. Very unhappy. Under powered, too small, not enough tension, vibration... Then I spent the bucks for a "real" tool. Got a Harvey C-14.
The most expensive tool is one that you want to replace. By the right tool once.

You did not mention what functions you plan on using it for. Once I got my current saw, it has become my primary tool. I do over half what I used to do in the table saw on the band saw. Easy and many times safer. I have re-sawn logs, re-saw a lot of rough lumber to veneer thin re-saw, many of the quick cuts I used to to on the TS or miter saw, and of course curved table legs. I have not done any scroll work yet. I don't think I have cut anything taller than 10 inches yet.

The old "C" frame saws are not as rigid as newer steel frame saws. Riser blocks even worse. 1/4 blade, maybe not a problem, but can it tension a 1/2 or 4/8?
Smaller than a 14 inch you may find restrictive. Depends on what you want to do.
How easy to adjust the guides is important. Some people put on a 3/8 blade and only touch the guides when they do a new blade. I swap blades more often.
Many of the older C-frame saws have a very weak aluminum upper trunnion subject to breaking. Watch out for that. ( So does the steel frame Jet)
If it does not have a simple lever tension release, you will regret it.
Aluminum wheels are more subject to going out of balance with dust. I like heavy iron wheels, but with careful modifications for dust collection, that should not be a big problem. Like almost all woodworking tools, you can almost buy by weight. heavier the better.
Grizzly quality is hit or miss. Jet almost as bad. Older Delta tools have no support or parts.
Rikon, Laguna and Harvey are the better tools. I went for a 3 HP Harvey ( I had 220) as I liked the guides better than the Rikon or Laguna.
You won't find many of the R-L-H for sale used. People keep them.
If re-saw is your main goal, one of the best re-saw blades in the Laguna, but they don't make it to fit my Harvey.
You can buy carbide tip blades for 14 inch saws, but I have been told they tend to break and a big 18 inch is a better choice if re-saw is your primary goal. A carbide blade gives a smoother cut as the sides are honed. I hone my steel bands so they do pretty well, just not as good as carbide.
On the guides, if properly adjusted the side guides do almost nothing, so bearings or blocks is not much of a difference. I do not like the rear bearings that are flat with the band scraping across the side. I like them in-line with the band hitting the outer diameter.
If you intend a lot of scroll work, you may want a Carter single rear guide setup for 1/8 inch bands. See what is available. They do not have one for my Harvey.
You can get any diameter band, just not always off the shelf. So an odd older tool is not a negative. Only some carbide tip bands are not made to length.
Even though I can run a 3/4 band, I usually run a 1/2. So far, not much difference in re-saw. So I don't think the 1/2 limit on smaller saws is a big issue. Blade quality and setup seem to be more important in my experience.

You did not say where you are located. If not too far from Hillsborough, you are welcome to see how my Harvey works. I am sure there are other members who would let you see their saws and show the little ins and outs that are good and bad. I was not aware of how well a "real" saw works until I saw a fellow members saw.

IF you can do the bigger budget, and IF you have 220, Harvey has sales on and off almost daily. Sometimes big discounts. Rikon and Laguna more like once a year from Woodcraft. The have very good lower HP saws. I don't know if one really needs 3 HP, but mine has never bogged down and my 12 inch Delta did.

Used is of course hit and miss. As always, usually only two reasons for a used saw on the market. Estate sale or dumping the one they were not happy with. The good news is with a band saw, there is no serious safety issue with older saws like on table saws with no riving knife. So a good old saw is just as safe as a new saw.

Lots of You-Tube on band saws. A few are actually helpful. Many are terrible telling you how to skew the fence to match a band which is not tracking correctly. My fence is in line with my table and I never adjust it. I learned how to adjust tracking correctly. The Alan Snodgrass video's are informative, though I found I adjust slightly differently from him, they were key to understanding tracking.

Lastly, if you get a quality smaller saw, you may find the optimum is to get a second bigger saw dedicated for re-saw later. In a perfect world, I would have an 18 or 20 inch comercial saw for re-saw and my Harvey for every thing else. Maybe even the smaller open frame Rikon. Unfortunately, I live in Hillsborough, not Perfect.

 

[Chris C]

I have to ask... Have you ever owned a Grizzly band saw? Or any Grizzly tool for that matter?

You are always quick to run them down and I just wonder if that's from personal experience or just regurgitation from the web....?

My experience: Everyone has their own, so take this as one view, not an absolute.
I had two smaller used band saws. Spent money on tires, guides, etc. Very unhappy. Under powered, too small, not enough tension, vibration... Then I spent the bucks for a "real" tool. Got a Harvey C-14.
The most expensive tool is one that you want to replace. By the right tool once.

You did not mention what functions you plan on using it for. Once I got my current saw, it has become my primary tool. I do over half what I used to do in the table saw on the band saw. Easy and many times safer. I have re-sawn logs, re-saw a lot of rough lumber to veneer thin re-saw, many of the quick cuts I used to to on the TS or miter saw, and of course curved table legs. I have not done any scroll work yet. I don't think I have cut anything taller than 10 inches yet.

The old "C" frame saws are not as rigid as newer steel frame saws. Riser blocks even worse. 1/4 blade, maybe not a problem, but can it tension a 1/2 or 4/8?
Smaller than a 14 inch you may find restrictive. Depends on what you want to do.
How easy to adjust the guides is important. Some people put on a 3/8 blade and only touch the guides when they do a new blade. I swap blades more often.
Many of the older C-frame saws have a very weak aluminum upper trunnion subject to breaking. Watch out for that. ( So does the steel frame Jet)
If it does not have a simple lever tension release, you will regret it.
Aluminum wheels are more subject to going out of balance with dust. I like heavy iron wheels, but with careful modifications for dust collection, that should not be a big problem. Like almost all woodworking tools, you can almost buy by weight. heavier the better.
Grizzly quality is hit or miss. Jet almost as bad. Older Delta tools have no support or parts.
Rikon, Laguna and Harvey are the better tools. I went for a 3 HP Harvey ( I had 220) as I liked the guides better than the Rikon or Laguna.
You won't find many of the R-L-H for sale used. People keep them.
If re-saw is your main goal, one of the best re-saw blades in the Laguna, but they don't make it to fit my Harvey.
You can buy carbide tip blades for 14 inch saws, but I have been told they tend to break and a big 18 inch is a better choice if re-saw is your primary goal. A carbide blade gives a smoother cut as the sides are honed. I hone my steel bands so they do pretty well, just not as good as carbide.
On the guides, if properly adjusted the side guides do almost nothing, so bearings or blocks is not much of a difference. I do not like the rear bearings that are flat with the band scraping across the side. I like them in-line with the band hitting the outer diameter.
If you intend a lot of scroll work, you may want a Carter single rear guide setup for 1/8 inch bands. See what is available. They do not have one for my Harvey.
You can get any diameter band, just not always off the shelf. So an odd older tool is not a negative. Only some carbide tip bands are not made to length.
Even though I can run a 3/4 band, I usually run a 1/2. So far, not much difference in re-saw. So I don't think the 1/2 limit on smaller saws is a big issue. Blade quality and setup seem to be more important in my experience.

You did not say where you are located. If not too far from Hillsborough, you are welcome to see how my Harvey works. I am sure there are other members who would let you see their saws and show the little ins and outs that are good and bad. I was not aware of how well a "real" saw works until I saw a fellow members saw.

IF you can do the bigger budget, and IF you have 220, Harvey has sales on and off almost daily. Sometimes big discounts. Rikon and Laguna more like once a year from Woodcraft. The have very good lower HP saws. I don't know if one really needs 3 HP, but mine has never bogged down and my 12 inch Delta did.

Used is of course hit and miss. As always, usually only two reasons for a used saw on the market. Estate sale or dumping the one they were not happy with. The good news is with a band saw, there is no serious safety issue with older saws like on table saws with no riving knife. So a good old saw is just as safe as a new saw.

Lots of You-Tube on band saws. A few are actually helpful. Many are terrible telling you how to skew the fence to match a band which is not tracking correctly. My fence is in line with my table and I never adjust it. I learned how to adjust tracking correctly. The Alan Snodgrass video's are informative, though I found I adjust slightly differently from him, they were key to understanding tracking.

Lastly, if you get a quality smaller saw, you may find the optimum is to get a second bigger saw dedicated for re-saw later. In a perfect world, I would have an 18 or 20 inch comercial saw for re-saw and my Harvey for every thing else. Maybe even the smaller open frame Rikon. Unfortunately, I live in Hillsborough, not Perfect.

 

[Hmerkle]

Ray,
First of all welcome to the forum, we are glad you are here and yes, you will get a TON of information from the hive mind here!

Second, and the first point in your bandsaw search journey, as many have mentioned- you need to have an idea of what you will do with the bandsaw before you can choose one that you will be happy with for a long time...
1. Do you plan to re-saw? (for veneer or simply to reduce thicker board to thinner ones?
(a normal 14 inch bandsaw may not have enough height and as Scott (@tvrgeek) points out enough frame strength to effectively use a wide enough blade for re-sawing. Now with that said, there are number of people who have installed a riser block on a 14" Delta-style saw and installed a 1/2" blade and are very happy with it.
2. Are you a turner and need throat capacity?
3. Are you planning you use it for cutting radius' for example bandsaw boxes or (what I will call) large scroll work?
4. Do you need a large table to cut circles? (this can be remedied with a simple auxiliary table made from plywood, but it does take away a little bit from the blade height.
There are more project-based choices that can help you make your decision, but if you lean toward one of these more than another

Third you said "I've been looking for a used / pre owned Bandsaw"
Your budget and or willingness to tinker or repair a "project" machine is a significant part of the decision.
As for a used / pre-owned saw, are you sure?
I was just talking with someone about the Rikon (10-326 I believe) while it is a $1500+ machine, it is VERY capable and the day after you get it and get it set-up you are ready to go!
As Chris (@Chris C) mentioned, Grizzly is a GREAT option too. (as far as a new machine)

Now, if you are like me, you CRAVE the "Deal" somebody's old piece of crap that can be refurbished and you proudly open your arms like Vanna White and say "Look what I did" LOL
Yes, there are more "projects" than woodworking getting done in my shop (garage) that for some reason has a vehicle right in the middle of it most of the time...
I now have a non-working Walker Turner bandsaw, and someone else has my old 80's Delta with the riser-block.

I hope this is helpful, but for any tool the question is;
What do you want to do with it?
What is your budget?
If I buy new or used and I learn I need to upgrade, is this tool easily saleable?
What is the best tool you can afford (right now)?

 

[Reference Handiwork]

Hi Ray!

I'm also from the West Coast and moved out here to Winston-Salem, NC, just about a year ago. Welcome!

I'm often in a similar situation when replacing or buying new machines. Cost is a huge factor for me, and so is the mobility/footprint of the machine, since I've carved out a very tight shop in my basement.

I've used a few compact bandsaws. The two that I I used most were the harbor freight 10" one (meh, not as bad as some say) and a small Craftsman 3 wheeled one. The Craftsman was very compact, but essentially just a glorified scroll saw.

I recently acquired the lesser version of the Rikon 10-3061 lightly used for $275. It is quite a well put together machine and I don't see myself upgrading anytime soon. The 3061 comes with a more powerful motor, iron wheels, and a larger fence, making it an ideal little machine for small resawing. If I were buying something new, and didn't have the floorspace for something larger, that's what I'd buy. As it is, I find my Rikon 10-305 to be a high quality little saw for cutting shapes in hardwood up to around 2 1/2" thick. It doesn't like to resaw, though. So if you go this route, the 3061 might be worth the extra up front cost.

 

[Hmerkle]

Ray,
As "Ref" points out the small Rikon Bandsaws are pretty popular (I know a few members who have a 10" Rikon in addition to there larger saws in the shop!)

But the reason I am posting again is that I didn't read closely enough to realize you have move to the "right" coast from the left coast and if you can make it to Hickory for the Klingspor Extravaganza you will likely find deals on a lot of stuff and maybe even the Bandsaw of your dreams... again if you are at all considering a new purchase...

Regardless, if you can make it - come - it is a LOT of fun!

I just checked and Klingspor does have access to the 10-3061, they just don't list it on-line.
If you don't find something you expect to be there on the KWS website just start a chat with customer service - Mike and Chris are VERY knowledgeable and SUPER helpful!!
They just told me: The RK103061 is the replacement on the RK10305.

 

[tvrgeek]

I have to ask... Have you ever owned a Grizzly band saw? Or any Grizzly tool for that matter?

You are always quick to run them down and I just wonder if that's from personal experience or just regurgitation from the web....?

I have looked at buying a several Griz tools, fairly new used. DP, BS, TS. I have looked at a Shop Fox in store and again, passed. Passed due to quality from direct inspection. I hear if you got a good one, they are just fine. ( Though I don't like their BS guides.) I also know my very good C-300 table saw is the in house version of the saw they made for Griz, 690 I think. I think my BS is the OEM for several brands. Baleigh maybe but hard to tell.

I do not go by one web comment, but the ponderance of them along with the ratio of good support vs bad support. Griz, Laguna, Rikon, Jet all have both good and bad support comments. ( Delta as far as I can see, only bad and the modern Delta DP I saw was even worse then my '92 Delta. I have had nothing but excellent support from Harvey.

So, I don't have any immediate intention of buying a Griz. Maybe a planer but I am getting by with my DeWalt. I don't like it, but it is getting me by and the Powermatic is just way too far out there. Griz feeds the market for as cheap as they can for the tool position. When you are trying for as cheap as you can, tolerances take a back seat. Support takes a back seat. I do not know about their more up-scale tools as they do offer entry level professional tools in some lines. I have only looked closely at 3 HP TS, 14 inch BS, 15 inch planer, and drill presses of several sizes.

Both my small benchtop band saws were Delta, but I hated them for being not enough tool, not manufacturing quality. Zero support though as when the current owners bought Delta, they did not pick up support for the older tools.

 

[Oka]

Welcome to the forum Ray,

Getting a used saw works fine depending on what you will use it for. If you intend to resaw then you will want at least 2-3 hp min and likely 220 v. Otherwise a smaller one like the workshop old Deltas work fine for most shop needs.
I have a 2 hp saw 14"with a 1/2 carbide' blade. I went with a narrower blade because I needed the versatility of a thinner blade.
If you can afford 2 k then coming out of Montclair (in between Pomona and Ontario Ca) the Harvey Company does offer a really nice 14-15"band saw.
One thing If you go on the bigger side, make sure it has a brake (safety).

As for California auctions are a many. There is one in Santa Maria, West auctions is all over mostly Central and north California. These are worth looking at as Band saws come up quite often and you can get some decent pretty cheap.

Hope that helps

 

[Mike Davis]

The only thing I can say about Grizzly is the few machines I have worked on for other people had minor problems that caused major issues for the owners. One in particular had sloppy slots that made the crosscut guide difficult if not impossible to use.
I fixed it with a file in about 20 minutes, but it should have been checked before it left the factory.

 

[Chris C]

So the short answer to my question is.... No.

Fair enough. But I'd suggest you make that clear if you're going to review them.

I personally own a Grizzly 12" planer, a 13" planer/molder, a 6" jointer, stationary 80" edge sander and an 18" band saw. I bought the saw new but the rest used. I have zero complaints with any.

That's a true hands-on representation of the tools. I've used them extensively. Are the the best money can buy... No. Have I seen any defects or quality control issues...No. Are they solid dependable tools? In my experience....yes.

I can't speak about Grizzly customer service. That's because in all the years I've used my tools I've never had a problem that required me to contact them. Not one. Even with the used ones.... they all work as advertised.

Finally.... My 3hp Jet 10xl cabinet saw cuts like a champ. No complaints there either. But it did have a trunnion bearing go bad so I guess I should have scrapped it .....

I have looked at buying a several Griz tools, fairly new used. DP, BS, TS. I have looked at a Shop Fox in store and again, passed. Passed due to quality from direct inspection. I hear if you got a good one, they are just fine. ( Though I don't like their BS guides.) I also know my very good C-300 table saw is the in house version of the saw they made for Griz, 690 I think. I think my BS is the OEM for several brands. Baleigh maybe but hard to tell.

I do not go by one web comment, but the ponderance of them along with the ratio of good support vs bad support. Griz, Laguna, Rikon, Jet all have both good and bad support comments. ( Delta as far as I can see, only bad and the modern Delta DP I saw was even worse then my '92 Delta. I have had nothing but excellent support from Harvey.

So, I don't have any immediate intention of buying a Griz. Maybe a planer but I am getting by with my DeWalt. I don't like it, but it is getting me by and the Powermatic is just way too far out there. Griz feeds the market for as cheap as they can for the tool position. When you are trying for as cheap as you can, tolerances take a back seat. Support takes a back seat. I do not know about their more up-scale tools as they do offer entry level professional tools in some lines. I have only looked closely at 3 HP TS, 14 inch BS, 15 inch planer, and drill presses of several sizes.

Both my small benchtop band saws were Delta, but I hated them for being not enough tool, not manufacturing quality. Zero support though as when the current owners bought Delta, they did not pick up support for the older tools.

 

[tvrgeek]

Just like I said, IF you get a good Griz, they are fine. ( except the guides on their 14 inch) Way too many who did not. Of course, if you did not need service, you would have no complaints with it. One may actually have lower risk with a used one as presumably the owner already dealt with any issues. Not always as I found out. Right now a few folks got over extended stay-at home so a few almost new tools are coming to market.

One of the parts they cheap out on in budget machines is bearings. So, when they go bad, just put in good ones. The other bad-from-stock is their V-belts. Seems the Chinese have a difficult time with them. Horrible actually. Again, easy fix. Sheaves not round are a common problem. Warped tables? Well on the one used TS I looked at, yes. I did not have to own it to know I did not want it. Slot tolerances seem to vary. I would not say my TS slots are as good as a SawStop but were better than the used Griz I looked at. My old Ridgid was maybe slightly better. Other small differences are things like TPI per inch and backlash on adjustments. Sometimes things like that make the difference between just getting it done and enjoying getting it done.

Now, the OP is looking for a band saw. Fortunately a pretty simple device and only a few things that can go wrong. Ease of guide adjustment, ability to get the upper guide post exactly in line with the blade when you move it, and avoid the cast aluminum upper trunnion block. A quick tension release helps prevent vibrations due to flat spotting the tires.

Wheel balance is important and that is one place I have seen complaints with Griz. Of course, if that is all you have ever used, you may not know it can be better ( or DIY make it better) If a used saw, power it up. You should be able to balance a nickel on the table. I bought a circa '92 Delta drill press the guy used every day. Vibrated like all get out as the motor sheave was machined off center. He did not know that was wrong as it was the only one he ever used. Good sheaves are not cheap!

For any woodworking machine, look at the parts diagram for all in the class you are looking at. In band saws for instance, quite a difference in the "heft" of the trunnions. Beefy enough? Broad enough to be stable? Cast iron or pot metal?

FWIW, the price between the Harvey and comparable Griz is about $100 right now. Griz only 2 HP, Plus the kind of guides I don't like. Trunnions look like they came off a $250 benchtop saw. Their old Delta classic C-frame clone is half that. Now 2K is a serious amount of bucks, but I wasted probably $500 on two previous saws and all the parts I used to fix them only to realize they just were not serious tools.

A lot is said about no-tool guide adjustment. Not sure it is that important. How easy to set just right is. I thought the spring loaded Rikon were not as easy as the eccentric Harvey. I don't remember how finicky the Laguna were. Only played with one on the showroom a couple years ago. The blocks on my Delta were a total pain as they moved when you snugged the setscrew.

Some have mentioned inspections as it relates to quality. I doubt any of these tools are "inspected" as in AQL. I sure hope they all are using SPC so the process only produces parts within the spec. Wider spec, cheaper to make as you don't have to change tooling as often. Inspecting is both too expensive and too error prone.

PS:
I was not thrilled with the cut quality of the Griz planer. The helical head has a lot fewer cutters than the Jet, and way fewer than the PM. If you have a drum sander, then probably no big deal. I don't so I sand and by hand. I think all the moving table planers come from one OEM, and all the moving head from one OEM. Just built to the price point each brand specifies. Griz specifies the bottom price point. That is their business model as value leader. So machining tolerances are sloppier than the higher price point. Only a couple hundred more for the PM looks well worth it to me.

PPS: I looked at the Jet Exacta TS. Nice saw. A few newer features like a multi-grove belt instead of 3 V belts. Smoother. Pull out tray for when you drop your arbor nut. At the time I had my router table as a wing so I wanted the "standard" 27 inch table. Of course now I moved it so the deeper table would have been fine.