How do you get a factory finish with oil base paint

[Rayban]

I am getting ready to spray the outside of some cabinets I've made and I started with a Zinnser primer. I have an Earlex 5500 and an oil base white paint. When using latex, I've added floetrol, thinned and also added a minwax polycrylic to the paint with good success. How can I get that same finish with oil base? I don't want the yellowing affect that polyurethane leaves over time. If I use Penetrol and thinner, is there a good poly I can add to the paint that will not yellow? I assume I can't mix polycrylic with the oil base paint. Thanks.

 

[ehpoole]

We certainly have much more knowledgeable members on finishing around here than I (hopefully they will chime in as well), but here are my thoughts:

If you absolutely do not want yellowing, then you should not be using oil based finishes -- depending upon your application it can be a desirable or undesirable characteristic of oil finishes, but a characteristic it is. How quickly and to what extent an oil finish yellows will depend upon the chosen oil base and the degree of sunlight exposure (which will bleach out the yellow).

So stay with your water-based finishes if you do not want yellowing. From the sounds of your post, you have had good results with spraying water-based finishes, so there is no reason to switch now.

You most definitely do not want to mix a water-based finish with an oil-based finish unless you like finishes with predictably unpredictable outcomes (mix a jar half full of water and oil, shake, and that's what your finish is going to come out like when you spray). You can, however, apply a water-based finish over top a thoroughly dried and cured oil-based finish (but scuff the existing finish if it is gloss).

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I don't want the yellowing affect that polyurethane leaves over time.

No way to eliminate that. The linseed oil used to make oil based paint and varnish will amber as it ages. It will be most noticeable in the lightest colors. Oil based paint has the same base components as clear varnish or poly varnish. The only difference is that the paint has lots of opaque pigments added to it. They are both about equal in durability and protective qualities.

Also, spraying oil based finishes is problematic. Oil based finish is slow drying and the overspray is in the form of liquid droplets. These droplets will float in the air and anything they land on will end up with a crust. To spray oil based finishes a good spray booth is necessary or you need to spray outdoors. But, of course, outdoors has its own set of problems.

 

[Phil S]

I agree with Howard. I would use a professional water-based finish that is designed for your application. While there are many, the product that I would use is General Finishes Enduro White Undercoat and about three coats of GF Enduro White Poly. They will not yellow with age and are very easy to apply with a sprayer - dries dust-free in 15 to 30 minutes