How do you assess air dried lumber before you buy?

[Chilihead]

I've got a lead on some air dried ambrosia maple that seems to be a good deal. The owner tells me he's air dried it for 2-3 years. I've never bought wood this way, but he's willing to let it go for a good price so its tempting. Anything I should watch out for? Any tips for assessing would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Michael

 

[Hmerkle]

I would be more concerned with bugs. (powder post Beatles etc.)

Look for small piles of dust coming from a hole in the wood.

Also, depending on the thickness, I might take a moisture meter to it to see how dry it is.

if you are not planning to use it immediately - you are probably fine - stack it and sticker it and let it sit.

If you are planning to use it immediately - you MUST know how dry it is and if there are any "hobos" that are coming home with you!

One - other point - wait for Scott Smith to chime in here (if you can)

 

[Chilihead]

Regarding those hobos. If I see those telltale dust piles, then should I just run? Or can they evicted somehow?

I would be more concerned with bugs. (powder post Beatles etc.)

Look for small piles of dust coming from a hole in the wood.

Also, depending on the thickness, I might take a moisture meter to it to see how dry it is.

if you are not planning to use it immediately - you are probably fine - stack it and sticker it and let it sit.

If you are planning to use it immediately - you MUST know how dry it is and if there are any "hobos" that are coming home with you!

One - other point - wait for Scott Smith to chime in here (if you can)

 

[Hmerkle]

it is really tough - have a look at this thread...

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=52238&highlight=powder+post

smarter people will weigh in I am sure, but my understanding is that about the only way to "Ensure" it is to put them in a kiln - probably defeating the purpose of getting air dried lumber...

I am still hopeful that Scott Smith weighs in on this... SCSMITH42

Here is his website too -

http://quartersawnoak.com/

 

[scsmith42]

Michael, as Hank advised look for tell-tale signs of powderpost beetles. When the larvae hatches and the beetles burrow out of the wood they leave a pinhead sized exit hole and a small pile of very fine sawdust. Gestation cycle for PPB's is 2 years, and the only sure-fire method to alleviate them is to heat the lumber up to 133F for at least 30 minutes (measured at the core - the boards will need to be in a 140F or higher environment for several hours in order for the core to reach 133).

Pinhead sized holes that have a black ring around their perimeter is an indicator of ambrosia beetles, which are a green-wood pest so you don't need to worry about them existing in your dry lumber.

Maple is fairly forgiving to air dry, and it will be around 12% - 14%MC. Bring it into a humidity controlled environment for a few weeks and it will dry down below 10% and be ready for processing.

 

[Matt Furjanic]

I once had an air-dried maple burl slab with powder post beetle infestation. Put the slab in a large garbage bag and dumped a can of boric acid powder in there. Sealed up the bag and left it for a month. I washed the slab thoroughly with soap and water. This was about three years ago. A coffee table was since made from the slab, and have not seen a sign of any more powder post beetles.

 

[Roy G]

There are some products you can buy to paint on the wood which supposedly kill the beetles. i think they are Tim-bor and Boracare. I went through this a few years ago-somebody was selling cherry at a good price. When I went to look at it, there were holes and piles of dust in all the boards. if you ever get some wood with these beetles in it, you won't want to use it. If you cut it open, it is basically riddled with tunnels.

Roy G