horizontal router guide

[zapdafish]

Festool has some freakin nice but expensive ideas. Anyone know if its possible to rig up something like this for a porter cable 690 router? I will be edging something too big to run through a router table. I was going to use handplanes and sandpaper to get them flush but I really like this method.

 

[CarvedTones]

I will tell you what pops into my head but it is not something I have done...

I have an extension bit, which is basically a high precision 1/2" shaft with a 1/4" collet on the end. Using this would allow me to make a jig from fairly substantial pieces of wood. For example, I could do something similar to that with an L made from a couple of 2x6 pieces.

 

[dave]

Couldn't you just stand the piece up on end (size permitting) and clamp a board or two to one side level with the top? I've done that before when using a flush trim bit to create a larger surface for the router base plate to ride on.

 

[dave]

Or... if you multiple pieces, you could use spacers in between them to clamp up and rout more than one at a time. Guess it depends on the profile you're routing. When I did the flush trim routing, I had three boards clamped up together and was able to route the top and bottom of each with one setup.

Just be sure your spacers are wide enough to allow working only one edge at a time.

 

[FredP]

I use a home made step base and a strait bit. the step base is just a base with a half base attached. the half base ends at the bit. the bit protrudes flush with the half base. you are cutting with the end of the bit. no need to run router on edge or any fancy jigs. I made mine teardrop shaped so I could put a control knob on it to keep the router from tipping.:gar-Bi cant find it or pics so ....... are ya cornfussed yet?

 

[Bas]

What if you made a custom router plate out of 3/4" plywood (1/2" might work too). Drill two holes and use either threaded inserts or some countersunk nuts to secure two pieces of threaded rod, ~5" in length. The rods should stick over the work piece when holding the router sideways. Take a large block of wood and drill holes to receive the threaded rod, secure with wingnuts.

Kind of like this, but with threaded rod 5" long, not just a short bolt,

View image in gallery​

 

[zapdafish]

http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive98/7_23mattjig.html

found that link with alot of googling. I'll experiment with it some.

think its similar to what Bas had in mind. I was thinking of Dave's first option as well except I like the idea of having the workpiece flat when working on it.

FredP just confused me.

 

[FredP]

FredP just confused me.[/QUOTE]


:gar-Bi

 

[CarvedTones]

FredP just confused me.

I figured out a long time ago that people don't confuse me near as much since I quit paying attention...
:rotflm: :rotflm: :rotflm:

 

[FredP]

ok let me try again.... think 2 plates for your router bottom. cut one in half and mount it to the other. this creates a step. with the plates mounted to the router bottom [ half plate on the bottom ] adjust a strait cutting bit flush with the half plate. I can't get a picture yet but will try tomorrow. no need to turn the router horizontal. you set the router on the plywood and the bit trims the edging flush. I know still clear as mud huh? I make my own bases for special ops. I usually just cobb them together and discard them when that project is done. I like making them large enough to put a knob on the side. it keeps from tipping the router.

 

[gdoebs]

I think I get FredP's idea. It's a thick base plate that only covers half of the router's base. The bottom of the router bit does the work as it is set to "bottom out" flush with the top (or the bottom of the base).

or...do what I would do. Buy the Festool! Saves you time from trying to understand FredP and making jig!:rotflm:
I just love Festool!:gar-La;

 

[merrill77]

Unless you're working with _really_ big pieces, its a lot easier to do this on the router table...and it is easy to set up and darn near idiot-proof.

 

[Don Alexander]

i find that i can make jigs and use the routers and saws i have (quality tools all) add in whatever my time to make the jig/s comes up to and still not have anywhere close to the investment i'd have in anything with the Festool name on it while getting the same final result................................ which is a good thing because Festool is pretty pricey for my wallet

i certainly don't begrudge anyone who can afford Festool but i certainly can't some simple jigs out of scraps hanging around the shop have saved me thousands of dollars and work quite well :wsmile:

 

[CarvedTones]

Chris,

I would agree with you except that he mentioned up front that it was too big for his table. But maybe using roller stands or something to extend capacity would not be so bad.

Don,

I totally agree with you, though I think I am sometimes guilty of taking it too far, spending a couple of hours making something that would cost me under $20.

Fred,

Could you repeat that? I wasn't paying attention... :rotflm: :rotflm: :rotflm:

 

[zapdafish]

ok let me try again.... think 2 plates for your router bottom. cut one in half and mount it to the other. this creates a step. with the plates mounted to the router bottom [ half plate on the bottom ] adjust a strait cutting bit flush with the half plate. I can't get a picture yet but will try tomorrow. no need to turn the router horizontal. you set the router on the plywood and the bit trims the edging flush. I know still clear as mud huh? I make my own bases for special ops. I usually just cobb them together and discard them when that project is done. I like making them large enough to put a knob on the side. it keeps from tipping the router.

kinda got what you where getting at except not turning the router horizontal. If the piece I am trimming is laying flat like the pic, I don't see how I can keep the router vertical.

Last night I made a some router plates out of 1/2" mdf. I plan on cutting all but 1 in half and gluing them up so that they extend over the bit. Then I'll try and attach a block that will slide along the surface I am trimming. Think the hard part will be attaching the block in such a way that I can adjust it and to keep the 3 screw holes that attach the jig to the router base open.

 

[jhreed]

Fred +1 :Your first response was perfectly understandable. that method will work and I can see many other applications for the same set up.
James

 

[FredP]

ok I temporarilly threw a pic together. pretend the collet is a strait cut bit. [ignore the clamp] hope it helps. fesstool aint in my playbook either. even if I could afford em the miser in me would not pay 3-4 times as much as a quality competitors tool.:no:
andy... pay attention!:slap: :gar-La;

If you are ever out this way I could show you much easier.......

 

[merrill77]

I would agree with you except that he mentioned up front that it was too big for his table. But maybe using roller stands or something to extend capacity would not be so bad.

Agreed - I qualified that in my suggestion.

For large pieces as oriented in that picture, you can make a simple offset base that allows the router base to pass above the raised trim. You then lower the bit to the desired depth (matching the main piece) and use it to take off the excess thickness of the trim. I've seen this jig described in several places - this is a solved problem. The big advantage (other than price) is that the entire router is up on top of the workpiece, rather than balancing off the edge.

 

[zapdafish]

ah, i got it now, I was so fixated on trying to replicate the Festool way I couldnt see it.

Between the pic and Chris' explanation I believe I have it figured out. :widea::widea:

Cutting with the bottom of the bit instead of the side of the bit. Your way doesn't use a bearing to guide it and I like that the router isn't hanging off the side of the table.

 

[Canuck]

......Think the hard part will be attaching the block in such a way that I can adjust it and to keep the 3 screw holes that attach the jig to the router base open.

Double sided carpet tape should hold it ok, Steve. Then you can pry it off to remove the screws when its time.

Wayne