Hand Planes

mikeh74

New User
Mike
I've never used a plane or owned one for that matter. What is a good plane to start with and to learn from?

Mike
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
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mikeh74

New User
Mike
I will ask another question or two @mikeh74
1. What do you plan to use the plane for?
2. Why do you want to learn to use hand planes?

@Mike Davis is correct... to use hand planes, you need a set.
You CAN do a lot with a nicely tuned #4 for smoothing and even some other work... Have a look at some of Paul Sellers videos: https://www.youtube.com/c/PaulSellersWoodwork/videos

Here is a good one: https://www.youtube.com/c/PaulSellersWoodwork/videos

These are great questions. I don't have a specific project or use in mind. Would love to be able to plane a board flat and to clean up boards. Seems like a skill that is worth learning. I have a small jointer and a planer.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
These are great questions. I don't have a specific project or use in mind. Would love to be able to plane a board flat and to clean up boards. Seems like a skill that is worth learning. I have a small jointer and a planer.
O.K. - then hit Miek up for a "class" - I think he can teach you more in an afternoon than you will learn by yourself and You Tube in 6 months! (He did for me!)
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
While I own several planes, I have to confess that I don't use them too often - with the exception of my block plane. I find the little block plane comes in handy for a variety of tasks.
 

mark2

Mark
Corporate Member
in addition to the planes themselves, a good sharpening system along with patience to learn.
Having a Jointer and planer already might put you in position to start with smoothing plane and a block plane.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Since you have a jointer and planer and said you would like to flatten boards… that is what I do most often. I use a #6 Stanley with the blade ground to an 8 inch radius curve to rough plane before using my planer to thickness and smooth boards up to 13 inches wide.

I like the #6 because I am over six feet tall and like the length and weight of the tool. Some workers prefer the smaller #5 for this purpose.

If you get the 5 you can buy an extra blade, set it up for smoothing and use the plane for duel purposes until you decide to add additional planes.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Mike is correct.
Here is my advice. I would recommend taking a class or a lesson with someone like Mike Davis or others on this site. It will help you understand how to properly set and use the plane. getting a block plane and a #4 or #5 plane to start with. Also one of the most important things is understanding how to properly sharpen the plane. One lesson can get you aimed the right direction and save you a lot of heartache. Planes can be bought used and often will be excellent tools, this goes to the importance of getting a lesson with a knowledgeable woodworker and will save you from wasting your money on a poor purchase.
Do not get a Home Depot or Lowe's Cheapo as your 1st experience. This will frustrate you.

Hope that helps
 

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
After you make your decision on which plane(s) to get, do yourself a favor and get on over to Ed's Tool Store which is located above the Woodwright's School in Pittsboro, NC - about 30 miles from your current location.
 
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smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
For me I find a block plane and a number 4 the most frequent users. Seems like they come into play on any project, even when I don’t have to flatten or thickness material to start.

Sharp is key - even in inexperienced hands (mine) a good sharp tool will do its job. The trick is to have it sharp and set up right.
Learn how from someone knowledgeable. In my case it was Mike Davis.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Probably the most important aspect is having the right equipment and knowing how to put a keen edge on the blade in under three or four minutes so you can get back to work. Its the edge of the blade (iron) that does the cutting. The rest is there to support the blade. A $350.00 Lie-Nielsen plane works just as badly as a $20.00 flea market plane when they both have equally dull blades.
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I'd crawl around the local junk shops and flea markets and see what I could find. If you find a good candidate pick it up and take it to Mike....let him show you the deal.

I think the #5 is the best to learn on but if I could find a deal on a good user I wouldn't be too picky.
 

gamiller3rd

Pappy
Senior User
A poorly made, poorly tuned, poorly sharpened plane can quickly turn you against hand tools. My first plane many years ago was an inexpensive #4. I fought it for years before stumbling onto a LN 5-1/2 jack plane; from that point forward my use of and sadly $ invested in hand tools grew dramatically.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I use my block plane almost every day. It is a cheap Sears with a Hock iron in it. Next is probably my scrub plane ( modified #4) , then #4. Just upgraded from a Stanly Bailey pattern to a Woodcraft Bedrock pattern. Better? Only in fine adjustment I have learned to do anyway. It did teach me I don't need to upgrade my #7. (All have Hock irons) First? #4 is most common, but #5 probably is a better all around. Don't use my 7 much as I have power jointer and planer. I use the #4 scrub plane for roughing stock before it goes in the planer. It is actually quicker to rough out and easier to clean up. I have a WEN hand held power planer, but it is easier to just grab a bench plane.

The skill that goes hand and hand is sharpening the irons. I have spent more on every jig and tool than on the planes and am still not happy. I can get there, but not happy.

A cheap Stanley Baily pattern plane works as well as a L-N IF you put a decent iron in it. Harder to tune, Not as enjoyable, but it is the iron that does the work, not the body. Might look at Taylor and Woodcraft for well made but not prestige. ( L-N and Veritas) Skip the Buck and HF, and really, by the time you get a old Stanley or Record Bailey pattern and a good iron, clean and true it, the mid priced may be a better overall deal.

Of course, a lot are sold out right now. Someday I might spring for a L-N 5 1/2. Just because. Maybe their block plane and then have my Sears for rough who-cares carpentry type jobs which is what they do best anyway.

Warning: Planes seem to multiply. One, two, ten... Using them well becomes kind of Zen. And do take up any member offers for an hour or so to show you how to use one correctly. Pre U-tube, I got most of my hints from PBS, thanks to Roy Underhill.
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
And an excellently made, super expensive boutique, poorly tuned, poorly sharpened plane can turn you against hand tools even quicker.


A poorly made, poorly tuned, poorly sharpened plane can quickly turn you against hand tools. My first plane many years ago was an inexpensive #4. I fought it for years before stumbling onto a LN 5-1/2 jack plane; from that point forward my use of and sadly $ invested in hand tools grew dramatically.
 
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Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
And an excellently made, super expensive boutique, poorly tuned, poorly sharpened plane can turn you against hand tools even quicker.
And that's just something you know Chris, not speaking from experience - right?
Asking rhetorically of course. :rolleyes: ;) :D
 

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