Grizzly 6 inch jointer cleanup.

'74 Jailbreak

New User
jp
Long time lurker here. It's been almost 30 years since I've used a jointer but I've had the itch for a while now to build some things. I realized that waiting until you build a shop and collect all the tools means that you're not building anything in the meanwhile.

Bought a used Grizzly jointer that appears to be lightly used though it has sat for a while. There are no model numbers anywhere that I can find. I thought it was a G1182 but the blade guard on this has a top mounted tension knob. All the G1182's that I see online have a bottom mounted knobs.

I used a razor blade in vice-grips to remove the majority of the surface rust from the tables and fence. Gave it a misting of WD40 and then a light wire brush scrubbing. Wiped clean with mineral spirits after that. Then did a wipe on and back off Ospho application after that. That really removed the rust stains. Cleaned everything back up with mineral spirits, rubbed it down with some steel wool and then a misting of T-9 Boeshield to finish.

Rank amateur here so I wasn't 100% sure on the correct route to clean this thing up. Most of the above steps seemed to be prevalent around the net, including here. It's gonna need a belt and blade sharpening I'm sure. Not even close to being prepared to set it up and square the tables, fence, blades, etc. Thought I should get familiar with it by a clean and inspect first.

I took a lot of pics so might as well post a bunch here. All feedback welcome, good, bad and ugly!

R/ '74JB
 

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'74 Jailbreak

New User
jp
More cleanup...
 

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DavidK

David
Corporate Member
That looks just like the jointer I picked up at the Scrap Exchange a while back. I never found a model or serial number on mine. I didn't clean mine as well as you have done. I was just setting the blades a couple days ago and still have not run any wood through mine.
 

Rex

Rex
User
You did a hell of a good job bringing it back from the dead. I believe that I have the same one (model G1182). Replacement knives are G6697. I added a bin to my rolling cart to catch all the chips.
IMG_2885.jpg
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
How's the motor work? If the belt needs replacing the motor might need new bearings. You can measure the knives and get new ones so you can take out the old ones for sharpening and not have any down time.

Roy G
 

'74 Jailbreak

New User
jp
I buy the ospho at the local trailer supply store but I've seen it in NAPA before. I didn't use it until the very end and then it was only a quick wipe on and buff off after sitting for 30 seconds or so. It really did the trick on converting that brown rust and cleaning up the table.

The motor seems to run fine with minimal vibes but the belt squeaks so I only let it run for less than a minute. Come to think of it, I can't prove that it's the belt squeaking so could be motor bearings.

I'd like to remove the cutter head and clean it up and get the blades sharpened. I'm still not 100% sure it's a G1182. Waiting to hear back from Grizzly tech support on that one.

Removing the fence to clean it, and taking the fence apart somewhat, was very helpful in getting a feel for things. Like I mentioned, it's been since 1990 since I operated a jointer.

Questions: WIll a G1182 take a helical or spiral cutterhead? Setting those conventional blades is starting to feel intimidating.
The base on the jointer is not level and it rocks slightly back and forth.
Short of shimming it, is there a good way to re-enforce the base and level it at the same time?
I don't have a precision straight edge. Am I going to need one to verify the tables square on this particular jointer?
What exactly is the anti-vibration belt that I've heard some about?

Thanks in advance for the feedback. This is a really helpful forum! R /
74JB
 

junquecol

Bruce
User
Globaltooling sells knives to fit your machine. Mine is a little older than yours, due to the fact that the serial number on mine is done with a Dyno label maker, while your has a decal. You can remove guard and replace it with a Euro style guard (shop built) and using both planer with sled and jointer, face joint and plane boards up to 10" wide
 

DavidK

David
Corporate Member

RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
That is an 1182 but the older model. I just did a complete tear down on mine. I redid everything but the fence. By the time I got done with everything I was so tired of it I got the fence square and called it good enough. I used the newer 1182 manuals/part lists and worked fine. I did finally find a scanned copy of the old model. I’ll put the link below. Yours appears to have been in much better shape than mine was but it was definitely worth tearing down and rebuilding. There was a lot of heavily pitted rust you where you couldn’t see from the outside. I scrubbed, sanded, and ground for hours. Hind sight being 20/20 I wish I had either gotten it sandblasted or made an electrolysis bath. It would have saved me a ton of time. The best thing about tearing it down was I was able to vastly improve dust collection on it. The whole area under the cutter head and body is open and has the tube leading out the side where you could attach a dust collector hose. I didn’t used it before because it didn’t do anything for chips flying out around the top and sides. I ended up making a MDF plate that slid flat to the middle of the body casting under the cutter head. I siliconed it to the body and screwed in a dust collector port to the bottom of the box, then ran a short section of 4” hose through the dust chute, and just connect that to my dust collector hose. That has eliminated 99% of all dust/chips. I put a picture below of the under side of the body. Unfortunately I didn’t take one after I put the block and siliconed it in but you can see where I put it.

 

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RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
Yes, there is a Shelix cutter head available for old Grizzly G1182. Apparently, there are two different diameters of cutterheads depending on the age of the G1182 so you need to order the right one.

I bought this straight edge to set up my jointer: 50" Anodized Aluminum Straight Edge Guaranteed Straight to Within .003" Over Full 50" Length SE50: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I installed a link belt to decrease vibration: Vibration Free Link Belt
There are 2 different diameters but Shelix only sells 1 diameter for this jointer. Even though it is Technically a smaller diameter than than this older model, it would still work. At least that’s what the website said when I was looking at them a few months ago. I think it said the diameter difference would allow for 1/8” smaller max cut but I’ve never even come close to doing a max cut on mine. I pretty much keep mine locked in around 1/32-1/16 cut.
 

RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
That’s awesome. They must have updated it or maybe I was looking at a different brand that said that. Now I’ve just got to find a way to justify $300 bucks for a new head when I told my wife that I just got it running better than new 3 months ago...
 

'74 Jailbreak

New User
jp
That is an 1182 but the older model. I just did a complete tear down on mine. I redid everything but the fence. By the time I got done with everything I was so tired of it I got the fence square and called it good enough. I used the newer 1182 manuals/part lists and worked fine. I did finally find a scanned copy of the old model. I’ll put the link below. Yours appears to have been in much better shape than mine was but it was definitely worth tearing down and rebuilding. There was a lot of heavily pitted rust you where you couldn’t see from the outside. I scrubbed, sanded, and ground for hours. Hind sight being 20/20 I wish I had either gotten it sandblasted or made an electrolysis bath. It would have saved me a ton of time. The best thing about tearing it down was I was able to vastly improve dust collection on it. The whole area under the cutter head and body is open and has the tube leading out the side where you could attach a dust collector hose. I didn’t used it before because it didn’t do anything for chips flying out around the top and sides. I ended up making a MDF plate that slid flat to the middle of the body casting under the cutter head. I siliconed it to the body and screwed in a dust collector port to the bottom of the box, then ran a short section of 4” hose through the dust chute, and just connect that to my dust collector hose. That has eliminated 99% of all dust/chips. I put a picture below of the under side of the body. Unfortunately I didn’t take one after I put the block and siliconed it in but you can see where I put it.

RedBeard,
That paint job looks great! I like the rolling base you have it sitting on. It looks to be a double layer of 3/4 inch plywood. Do you have to lock it down when in use or is it stable from the weight of the machine? That might solve my crooked stand problem and obviously make it easer to move around the garage (wish I could use the word "shop" here...).
 

'74 Jailbreak

New User
jp
Grizzly Tech Support confirmed what Redbeard stated, it is indeed a G1182. It's a first generation and they were very specific that I point that out when ordering parts or calling for assistance. Looks like it was made right around 1991. Thanks to everyone for all of the input. Very helpful.
 

'74 Jailbreak

New User
jp
Yes, there is a Shelix cutter head available for old Grizzly G1182. Apparently, there are two different diameters of cutterheads depending on the age of the G1182 so you need to order the right one.

I bought this straight edge to set up my jointer: 50" Anodized Aluminum Straight Edge Guaranteed Straight to Within .003" Over Full 50" Length SE50: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I installed a link belt to decrease vibration: Vibration Free Link Belt
Did you use a feeler gauge with the straight edge to set the tables parallel?
 

RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
Did you use a feeler gauge with the straight edge to set the tables parallel?
It is a 3/4 base with 3/4 strips screwed in tight to the base to help stop movement/vibration. I also screwed down strips inside the base onto the interior flange for the same reason. Hopefully you shouldn’t need to order many parts. When I was going through mine I replaced pretty much every nut, bolt, screw, belt, and wiring on it and reused all the other parts. Jointers are not overly complicated machines so there’s not a ton to break unless one of the castings is cracking. I tried to get a picture of the dust connection port under the cutter head. You can kind of see it but get the idea. Edit: one thing I wish I had done different with the base is make wider to give it a little more balance. It’s never been close to tipping but the jointer is very top heavy would just make me a little more comfortable the little bit I move it around.
 

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