green wood, cut now or wait till dry

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jonnyfontaine

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Jonny
i have bought some green wood, not sure of the exact MC, but i am eventually planning on resawing the 1" thick board into a bookmatched set 3/8" thick... should i wait for the wood to season or should i resaw the wood and then sticker it to dry before use... i figure it would dry faster as thinner boards, but will that make it move more as well? thanks for any and all advice
 
J

jeff...

Johnny - what species of wood is it? is it flat or quarter sawn?

Thanks
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
In kiln operator school we are taught that drying related degrade typically occurs when wood dries from green down to around 35% MC. Most degrade results from stresses caused by drying too quickly.

However, the degrade is not revealed until the wood is below 25%, and the lower the MC% goes the more degrade is revealed.

The benefit of leaving the board thick for drying is that thicker boards dry slower than thinner boards. If you resaw your boards first, theoretically you risk having the two smaller boards dry too quickly (since the moisture does not have as far to go when it dries and it is much more difficult to control the rate of drying).

Presuming that your boards are 4/4, I would leave them full thickness for several months in a cool, dry place (or a warm dry place - the key thing being "dry". If they are 8/4, go ahead and resaw them into 4/4 boards as this is a good thickness for uniform (yet relatively quick) air drying. Check them with a meter, once their core is below 25% you should be able to safely resaw them.

Different species have different safe drying rates, so a species such as eastern red cedar (that dries extremely fast) is probably ok to resaw green, but a species with a slow drying rate (such as oak) would be better to dry first and then resaw.

Like Jimmy, I'm curious though as to what the experience of others is in this area.

No matter what you do, be sure to have clean ends on your boards (cut them if needed) and treat them with Anchor seal (or another quality end sealer) ASAP.

Scott
 

jonnyfontaine

New User
Jonny
thanks for all the advice, the board in question is a 4/4 by 11" by 48" flatsawn board of rambutan... i looked up the specific gravity and i found it to be .92 i'm not sure what effect this has on drying, thanks
 
J

jeff...

My thoughts... keep in mind I know nothing about rambutan. However I assume it's like any other wood. If your looking to book match I would dry the board as it is. Once dry, joint both faces, one edge and re-saw, then plan or thickness sand to desired thickness. Your jointed edge will be you book match seam :wink_smil. The reason I would joint both faces, is so you have a flat surface for the planer or thickness sander after you re-saw.
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Jonny, I have zero experience with Rambutan (hadn't even heard of it until you brought it up), but I think that Jeff's advice is very sound.

Scott
 
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