GFI on a 20 amp 220v outlet

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ptt49er

Phillip
Corporate Member
I need to run a couple of 20 amp 220v circuits in the shop. It's a garage, so I think the outlets have to be GFI protected. I am having a dog of a hard time finding an outlet that'll work. Am I stuck using a breaker for the needed protection?
 

ptt49er

Phillip
Corporate Member
Upon further research it seems to appear that 220v circuits don't require GFCI's like 120v circuits do. And that I would have to get a GFCI breaker for the circuit, 220v GFCI outlets are not made.

Does anyone agree or dissagree with this?
 

JimmyC

New User
Jimmy
I'm note sure that the 110v are required either, un less they are out side, near a door, or on the the wall below 36".
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
I'm note sure that the 110v are required either, un less they are out side, near a door, or on the the wall below 36".

according to the Franklin county inspector this is correct.:gar-Bi all others are concidered to be dedicated cicuits.
 

Ken Massingale

New User
Ken
Down here in the boondocks, if the floor is concrete all 110v outlets must be GFCI. This is because of the ability for water to stand. I installed 16 receptacles in the ceiling of the shop for lighting and the head recept. in each branch had to be GFCI, with the others on the Load side of those.
 

Sealeveler

Tony
Corporate Member
Down here in the marsh the 110 have to be on a gfi breaker.I don't have 220 in garage.For 2 months after Hurricane Isabel I had to run a drop cord to water pump from inside.Had 3' water in garage.Tony
 

Don Sorensen

New User
Butch
In my shop, at 44 inches off the concrete floor in the two [STRIKE]garage[/STRIKE] er shop, I wired all of 20 amp 110vac outlets with GFCI protection. But the light outlets in the ceiling are not GFCI.

The air conditioner has it's own 110vac outlet - but the plug for the unit has GFCI built in.

hmmmmm that last one is closer to the floor I may have to replace that outlet with a GFCI.

All this because I thought everything is Wake co. in the [STRIKE]garage[/STRIKE] shop had to be GFCI.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
In Wake county 220 Volt outlets are not required to be GFCI. 110 Volt outlets in a garage (ie having a garge door), exterior outlets and outlets within 3 feet of a sink are required to be GFCI.
 
M

McRabbet

As any reader can determine, this is one of those cases where the NEC only guides, the final word is "determined by the code official having jurisdiction". IIRC, Durham County also requires GFCI's in garages, on exterior outlets and within 3 feet of a sink. Same here in Henderson County.
 

DaveD

New User
Dave
I'd like to see some bureaucrat somewhere answer why I need my 110 on GFCI in the garage but the 50A outlets 220V for the welders and other power tools and the 10HP rotary phase converter feeding the 3 phase lathe is just fine without that protection.

I guess its because a wet car can drip water on the floor and then we are going to roll nude around in it while running out 110V power tools.:rolf::rotflm:

I can get into the same 'potential situation' running these other tools just as easy (if not easier). What next, the OSHA guy for home shops?:kamahlitu

I don't need someone trying to protect me from myself. Just like those new breakers they want in your houses now. Arc fault or whatever the term is.:tongue2:

I sure as heck wouldn't wave a red flag in front of some inspectors nose and ask him about how to wire something. I'd find a 'professional' to ask that question of

Sorry for the rant..

P.S. You can actually buy 2 pole GFCI breakers in the higher amperages. Typically from a electrical supply place though and you probably need to take out a loan to pay for it. I think (not sure though) hot tubs are one place you need them.
 

cptully

New User
Chris
Well, I have not talked to the local (Raleigh/Wake) inspectors, but to electricians that I trust and got excellent recommendations for told me the following:

In my 1925 bungalow, I didn't absolutely have to install AFI or GFI unless I was doing new work. Now almost all of the outlets in the house were on one 20 A circuit :icon_scra and the ~ 2000 remodeled Kitchen outlets are just barely at the 3 ft mark, with no GFI...

I had the bed rooms split off onto a seperate AFI circuit and a GFI installed in the bathroom (that had to be stripped almost all the way back to studs and rebuilt). The kitchen I have left as is for now (on the let sleeping dogs lie theory). Neither electrician had a problem with that.

Now the real kicker comes in that I have 100 A service for a 1400 sq ft house plus 1600 sq ft standalone garage (built by the last owner), with a 60 A breaker that splits off to the garage :icon_scra. It only works because ALL of our appliances are gas :eusa_danc. But I did discover this Christmas that the tree lights were just enough extra to blow the circuit when I turned on the vacuum! Also, I can't really run both my table saw and my portable DC at the same time... :no:

Once I find a job and have money to play with, the plan is to finish the garage as two cars parking and 20 x 20 shop on the lower floor and guest room/office above. At that point I'm planning to upgrade the main service to 200 A and split 100A off to the garage. In that scope of those planned projects, a few GFI and/or AFI breakers are no big deal and I will happily use them.

Except for the fact that I was not comfortable with all outlets in the house on one circuit and I was doing other work that required moving ceiling boxes, I probalby would not have done any electrical work on the house. And, under the NC Rehab code, that is perfetly legal. In fact, it is worth at least skimming the rehab code because it does limit how far your are _required_ to go in bringing the house up to current code, depending on the scope of the work that you are doing. Now, the other arguement is that the local and international codes are the bare minimum - just becuase it is legal does not mean that it is best practice or truely the safest option.

Chris
 
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