Four curly maple tables with cherry sock feet and inlays

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pviser

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paul
Last month, I finally finished four tables that I started two years ago. I am embarassed to admit how long it took, but the project involved several techniques which were new to me. These include: hand-cut dovetails, resawing and bookmatching table tops, making the drawer fronts from the same piece of wood as the front apron for a perfect grain match, cherry sock feet, finishing the parts before assembly, close tolerance drawer fit, solid cherry bookmatched drawer bottoms, and hand-made laminated maple/cherry drawer pulls. My original intent was to benefit from the efficiencies of making four tables in parallel, but these tables had so much hand work that there was not much efficiency! One power tool that came in handy was my 25" double drum sander. This allowed me to use abrasive planing on the highly figured maple, giving glass smooth and flat tops with zero tearout.

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Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Paul -
IMPRESSIVE!
even the timing - I am thinking you completed them about two years ahead of what I would predict I could do!
 

pviser

New User
paul
Thank you for the feedback and the questions. The finish is plain ol' Minwax oil-based semi-gloss brushed on polyurethane. I have a dedicated finishing area -- no booth or filters -- far from my main area. After brushing on, I go over with tweezers to catch nibs and pop any bubbles. After drying, I use a 1/2" paring chisel to shear off any specks flush with the surface, then sand with 180 stearated paper. After the second coat, I do the same, but use 220 paper. After the third coat, I rub with #0000 steel wool. The steel wool is the step that seems to make any surface imperfections amazingly disappear, leaving a slightly satin reflective suface with a silky feel. All of this is easier to do with an un-assembled project. The question about the drawer front: 1 1/16" (the others were not that thick; the dimensions of each table were varied to adjust proportions to the different sized tops; I made the dimensional variations by visual assessment as I went along. The underbevel is a technique used by many of us woodworkers. I like it because it allows me to have a graceful 1/2" edge, yet retain (essentially hidden) the 1 1/4" top thickness for strength and dimensional stability. By the way, next project, I will learn how to rotate my photos before posting!
 

MagGeorge

New User
George
Classy and elegant tables! Gorgeous top, great joints and pretty legs. The inlays make great accents and awesome finish. Excellent job!
 
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