Flattening the Sole of a Hand Plane

[Monty]

How about a short plane like a block plane. Would you flatten it also?

The biggest reason I can think of to flatten a short plane like that (or really any plane for that matter) is if there is a recess in the sole of the plane in the most critical area - right in front of the mouth. You simply won't be able to tune the plane to take proper shavings if it's not perfectly flat right there. The only way you're going to know if there is a recess there is to... well, flatten it! :-D Make some initial swipes with the sandpaper on a flat surface, and judging by the scratches you see, you can quickly tell if you need to proceed any further.

 

[golfdad]

Guy's I went to a buddy of mine who own's a shop that does countertops. All the corian ect. sink cutouts get thrown away. They work great and are free. Go see your local countertop shop for a deal!!:icon_thum

 

[RandyJ]

Late as usual (I think I'll make that my signature!) but I use a piece of 1" thick granite to stick the sandpaper to. It's about 9"x35". Just long enough to get 3 full sheets of sandpaper on it. I use 500, 1000, & 2000 grits. The nice thing about the granite is, it was FREE:eusa_danc . Check out your local granite store and ask for scraps from big counter jobs. They're usually glad to get rid of the small pieces. If not free they should be fairly cheap. If one of the long sides is straight, line up the paper right on that edge. That makes it easy to sharpen most knives too! I use the 3m spray adhesive to hold the paper but the water should work on any slick surface as well. Good Luck! Randy

 

[Gofor]

Am in the process of flattening the sole on a #4 Bailey that was my Dad's (and maybe my grandpa's but not sure. I know its over 50 yrs old 'cause I remember seeing him use it that long ago). I went to Lowe's and bought a glass shelf for $11. (Found it where they have all the parts for shelf units) Its 18"L x 5"W x 5/16"D, plenty big enough for a #4.
It wasn't cheap, but its flat, sturdy, and I'll also use it for my irons and chisels.
A possible alternative if you don't have any other flat surface or you don't want water or grit on your cast iron TS top..
Go

 

[D L Ames]

Go, Great tip on where to find some glass with a decent thickness.:icon_thum I have a piece about that size that my FIL gave me but I never thought to ask him where he got it from.

D L

 

[NCPete]

For anyone in the Fayetteville area that wants or needs a piece of glass like that, I have 3 pieces in my store that fit a discontinued wall unit. We have no need for them, but they should make fine flat surfaces for the scary sharp method.

 

[D L Ames]

Pete, what size are they?

D L

 

[NCPete]

I'll measure tomorrow, but it seems they would handle at least a number 7 plane well.

 

[NCPete]

great idea! and that makes another inexpensive source for pen blanks, for those interested in corian pens...:icon_thum

 

[DavidF]

Great thread and all good answers - I use a coarse diamond stone to flatten the sole followed by the medium. IMHO it isn't required to create a polished finish just a flat one a fine scratch pattern is ok. Unlike the back of the plane blade as mentioned in other threads.

 

[NCPete]

11"X27" approximately. forget the thickness. free to good home

 

[D L Ames]

Pete, I'd like to get a piece of that from you if I can.

D L

 

[4yanks]

Unless the plane is significantly mishapen I would not bother to flatten the sole. If you place a staight edge along the length of the sole and it touches the straight edge at the heel, mouth and toe, and its not twisted from front to rear it will do the job it was meant to do as well as any other plane of the same type. I own over 60 planes. When I first started collecting them I turned my arms to rubber trying to flatten the things. Then I read some neanderthal guru somewhere say that it wasn't necessary. I started doing my own comparisons, and sure enough it didn't make a difference for me. If the plane doesn't meet the above criteria I would flatten in the manner that others have suggested until it does and then no more.

 

[D L Ames]

4yanks, I would love to visit your shop some time. Sounds like you have quite the collection of hand planes at your disposal for building those reproduction furniture pieces.

D L

 

[4yanks]

I'd love to have you over. However, right now my shop is partially dismantled due to the fact that I had to clear the garage out some to sell our house. So a lot of the cool stuff is packed up or in storage. We will be moving in 5 weeks to Southern Pines where I will have a dedicated building, albeit a small one (only 16' x 20') but it will be heated and cooled (yea!). That said if you'd still like to visit PM me.

 

[Travis Porter]

Ahh, central heat and air in the shop. What a life.

 

[DavidF]

Unless the plane is significantly mishapen I would not bother to flatten the sole. If you place a staight edge along the length of the sole and it touches the straight edge at the heel, mouth and toe, and its not twisted from front to rear it will do the job it was meant to do as well as any other plane of the same type. I own over 60 planes. When I first started collecting them I turned my arms to rubber trying to flatten the things. Then I read some neanderthal guru somewhere say that it wasn't necessary. I started doing my own comparisons, and sure enough it didn't make a difference for me. If the plane doesn't meet the above criteria I would flatten in the manner that others have suggested until it does and then no more.

I wouldn't fully agree with this, but if you didn't what to go to the effort of flattening the whole thing I would certainly get the whole area from the toe to the mouth flat and then to the heel, ignoring the part behind the mouth to the heel.