European hinges

[Maine Guide]

Looking for some help. I want to use concealed hinges on my gun cabinet. I like the looks and reviews for their hinges. My problem is my sides will be 13/16” thick unless I get 3/4” which will cost me about 40% more. I would like to have the door overlay about 3/8” and the reveal about 7/16”. I don’t want the over lay to be to much because I’ll be putting a lock on the door will be about an inch and a half from the edge will a handle few inches lower. I was thinking a half overlay with a higher plate increasing the overlay. But I’m sort of confused. When I’ve talked to some companies that sell hinges I get different opinions. Sure could use some help before I order something that won’t work! Thanks for any help.

Maine Guide

 

[craftbeerguy]

Your pic is a frameless cabinet and there are corresponding hinges made for that application along with various choices of overlay (measured in fractions of an inch). In a frameless application, your thickness of the sides are irrelevant. Also, there is an incredible amount of adjustments possibilities on certain 3 way hinges. A face frame applied to this is another discussion.

I suggest you go to the Blum website and carefully study the various applications, options within those, and installation steps. As I learned, you can split hairs on combining thickness plates with overlays.

You can order from a drop shipper like Woodworkers Express who often has options listed along with the basic hinge. The Euro hinges are inexpensive. If you can justify the shipping costs, the low hinge price has allowed me to buy a few options to observe the differences.

Hope that helps and I claim no expertise, just some experience.

 

[Rwe2156]

 

[tvrgeek]

Are the Blum back in decent supply? I had to use a knock-off when I did my pantry. Blum are worth it.

I use the cheap Kreg jig for drilling th eholes in the door. Probablly my lack of experience, but it takes several tests before I get it right. The dimentions on overlay vs door dimentions are still confusing to me.

Just was reminded about an old poem.
"Blum is a word very few have ever heard.."

 

[Maine Guide]

Are the Blum back in decent supply? I had to use a knock-off when I did my pantry. Blum are worth it.

I use the cheap Kreg jig for drilling th eholes in the door. Probablly my lack of experience, but it takes several tests before I get it right. The dimentions on overlay vs door dimentions are still confusing to me.

Just was reminded about an old poem.
"Blum is a word very few have ever heard.."

Scott, it appears Woodworkers Express has most Blum hinges and plates at a reasonable price. Cabinet Parts.com seems to have these as well, I think they’re priced a little higher. Yes, I’ll get a jig and Vix pit for centering the holes for screws.

Maine Guide

 

[Maine Guide]

Scott, it appears Woodworkers Express has most Blum hinges and plates at a reasonable price. Cabinet Parts.com seems to have these as well, I think they’re priced a little higher. Yes, I’ll get a jig and Vix pit for centering the holes for screws.

Maine Guide

 

[AllanD]

Hope I am understanding correctly. It sounds like your planned overlay is pretty standard. Almost any of the Blum 110 or 120 hinges should work fine. If by plate you mean the piece that screws to the cabinet wall then a higher plate would actually decrease your overlay. I use zero plates for the most part. The other thing that affects your overlay will be the setback of the cup hole on the door. I would recommend using some of your scrap of the same size and make a small mock up. Drill the cup holes with several different setbacks and see what works best. I would start by making the center 20mm, another at 22 mm and another at 23 or 24 mm. that would be the mark that you hit with the center point of your 35mm Forstner. For minimal expense you could order a couple sizes of the cabinet plate too. Start with the adjustment screws in the midpoint when you try this so you can adjust both ways if needed.

What are you using for the door? A solid slab, frame and panel, or edged plywood? That is a fairly tall door (prone to warp) so I would store the door wood on edge so both sides get equal exposure to the air while you build it.

 

[Maine Guide]

Hope I am understanding correctly. It sounds like your planned overlay is pretty standard. Almost any of the Blum 110 or 120 hinges should work fine. If by plate you mean the piece that screws to the cabinet wall then a higher plate would actually decrease your overlay. I use zero plates for the most part. The other thing that affects your overlay will be the setback of the cup hole on the door. I would recommend using some of your scrap of the same size and make a small mock up. Drill the cup holes with several different setbacks and see what works best. I would start by making the center 20mm, another at 22 mm and another at 23 or 24 mm. that would be the mark that you hit with the center point of your 35mm Forstner. For minimal expense you could order a couple sizes of the cabinet plate too. Start with the adjustment screws in the midpoint when you try this so you can adjust both ways if needed.

What are you using for the door? A solid slab, frame and panel, or edged plywood? That is a fairly tall door (prone to warp) so I would store the door wood on edge so both sides get equal exposure to the air while you build it.

 

[Maine Guide]

Thanks for help. I’m making a solid door out of maple. I do t want any glass as it’s an invitation for people who see guns in it. I’ll use 3/4 “ pieces glued up probably will 1x6 pieces, I suspect I should put the pieces cup side alternated. Any suggestions will help,
Thanks
Maine Guide