Thanks, I might make a sector. I would make the other thing but I would need a milling machine.
I have a mill you're welcome to use.
Thanks, I might make a sector. I would make the other thing but I would need a milling machine.
I think it’s to scale if you just printGot it. How long is that? Is there a scale to check for accuracy?
It’s either his or Red Rose reproductions, I can’t remember off hand. It was a free down load several years back.@Graywolf Is that Jim Tolpin's version or someone else's?
Mike - if you'd like to make a sector, I'd be happy to cut/rule it on the CNC for you. Super accurate.
It’s either his or Red Rose reproductions, I can’t remember off hand. It was a free down load several years back.
Check with Phil. I believe he has a milling machine. Or his son does.Thanks, I might make a sector. I would make the other thing but I would need a milling machine.
I'd be willing to make a few of these for just the cost of the stock (or free is stock provided). I've done thin aluminum, but prefer to stick to wood.@JNCarr how much would you charge for it? I would be interested!
If I can find some anodized aluminum would you be willing to CNC that or
only wood?
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I'm interested in one. Let me know the cost. What stock do you need? I'm not familiar with the details what gets fed into a CNC.I'd be willing to make a few of these for just the cost of the stock (or free is stock provided).
I was just planning on cutting the two rules, but let me think about a good way to do the hinge - might as well make a project out of this -I'm interested in one. Let me know the cost. What stock do you need? I'm not familiar with the details what gets fed into a CNC.
Also, I've lost track of this thread. Are you planning to cut out the sides for a sector? Are you also able to cut the hinge?
Thanks Joe,Hey Mike -
I ginned up a simple design last night and cut it this morning. It's all yours if you want (minus the 5/16 T-bolt and knob which I stole off another jig just to test this).
The knob is nice because you dont have to so careful about not moving it after the first distance transfer (as the guy in the video was). Just tighten the knob...
Stock is 5" x 3/4" x 20" hard maple. Any 3/4" stock would do, I just happened to have some maple the right size.
I left the holes for the divider nibs pretty small, since I didnt know what size yours are. If too small you can probably open them up with a nail set.
Jim and Hank - I'll make one for each of you if you want - cost you $10 for the stock (T-bolt not included) and a beer for me!
If anyone else wants the DFX and/or V-Carve files let me know - I'll send to you.
3/8 stock is no problem for me, but it's going to be pretty thin at the overlap joint. The frontside will be 3/16" thick, but the backside overlap will wind up being only .08" thick (where the T-nut is) by time the 0.1" T-nut head recess is milled in.Thanks Joe,
I will send you some stock (I need to prep it first so It might be a couple weeks, (Is that O.K.?)
Oh, and I would like to make it from 3/8" stock, will that be a problem?
I will still send you $10 for beer money! LOL
I would like the hinge overlap to be the same (3/16) so I can put a binder screw through the hole or a carriage bolt with a knurled nut - is that possible?3/8 stock is no problem for me, but it's going to be pretty thin at the overlap joint. The frontside will be 3/16" thick, but the backside overlap will wind up being only .08" thick (where the T-nut is) by time the 0.1" T-nut head recess is milled in.
Link & cost ?