dust collection question

[smallboat]

This question is really motor/bearing related.
Is there any reason I cant invert the motor and impeller assembly in this set up?
I’ve been pondering this for a while and am at the point of do it or quit thinking about it.
The goal is to get rid of the 180 deg length of tubing and have it pulling straight up out of the separator outlet.
Assuming this will increase the efficiency somewhat as well as potentially reducing the footprint of the whole setup.

I know some systems are built this way from the start but I am hesitant to just flop it over if the bearings aren’t meant to support the mass of the impeller in that direction.

Thoughts?

I would have to make provision to support the motor and allow for removal of the separator barrel but I’m confident I can do that much.

 

[FIreResq]

Good question. I've seen a number of YouTube videos where they have turned the motor and mounted on a wall. They mention that "the manufacturer says not to do this" but none have ever said it turned out to be a problem. I guess it comes down to properly supporting the motor and housing. I have a 2HP Shop Fox that I plan to convert to a 2 stage and mount to the wall. Good luck .. I hope it works.

 

[Charlie]

No problem. Some collectors have the blower in a horizontal position and some in a vertical position.
They all use the same type bearing.

 

[smallboat]

Thanks! Now I have a new project for the list!

 

[Ted P]

Your picture shows the blower/motor vertical and you want to turn it horizontal if I understand correctly. Should be no issue as the bearings support more weight when run horizontally. If you were changing from horizontal to vertical, you'd want to look at the impeller support to be sure it cannot slide up or down on the shaft. The impetus to move on the shaft is not so great horizontally but putting vertically requires more support. But you should be good to go.

 

[smallboat]

Your picture shows the blower/motor vertical and you want to turn it horizontal if I understand correctly. Should be no issue as the bearings support more weight when run horizontally. If you were changing from horizontal to vertical, you'd want to look at the impeller support to be sure it cannot slide up or down on the shaft. The impetus to move on the shaft is not so great horizontally but putting vertically requires more support. But you should be good to go.

I intend to rotate 180 deg so it is still vertical, just upside down. What is now the upper bearing experiencing no axial load would become the lower bearing supporting the weight of the impeller. That is my concern.

Based on Charlie’s observation re the bearings in existing models, it shouldn’t be a problem.
I see your point about the impeller moving up and down within the housing. I will have to make sure it cant move enough to interfere with the housing, when it has been flipped.

 

[JimD]

My HF "2hp" motor and blower are mounted vertically above a Super Dust Deputy near the ceiling with a wooden box of about 70 gallon capacity below the cyclone. I never operated it any other way and it is maybe 5 years old at this point. No issues. I did it this way to have the DC in about a 18 inch square in the corner of my shop. It exhausts through the wall to the outside. Works great!

 

[Oka]

Doesn't really matter which orientation a motor is set except with this one caveat. Some motors are not sealed and in certain orientations you could get more dust/debris in the bearing or motor which would shorten its life.

One good thing almost all motor bearings are inexpensive and easy to change.

Below, is the general codes for bearings. Bear in mind you can get a sealed bearing with a metal seal , a rubber seal or a combo-metal rubber seal.

Bearing Callouts:

• K - Cage with roller elements
• L - Removable bearing ring
• R - Ring with roller set
• S - Roll body of stainless steel
• W - Stainless steel deep groove ball bearing

Code:


(6)902 - This first number relates to the bearing type, typically most bicycle bearings will be a “6” which is a “Deep Groove”. Occasionally you will find a “7” bearing which is a “Single Row Angular Contact”

6(9)02 - This second number relates the bearing series, which reflects the robustness of the bearing. As you go up the scale below from 9 to 4 the inner and outer race thickness will usually increase along with the ball size, this will be to help cope with extra load. Hope this helps..........

• 9 - Very thin section
• 0 - Extra light
• 1 - Extra light thrust
• 2 - Light
• 3 - Medium
• 4 - Heavy

69(02) - The 3rd and 4th digits of the bearing number relate to the bore size of the bearing, numbers 00 to 03 have a designated bore size depending on the number.

• 00 - 10mm
• 01 - 12mm
• 02 - 15mm
• 03 - 17mm

Important Trivia : Numbers over 03 simply have a bore size which is 5 times that of the 3rd and 4th digit.

Suffix:

• 2 RS - Bearing with rubber seal on both sides. RS provides a better seal but more rolling friction than 2Z.
• RS - Bearing with rubber seal on one side, one side open.
• 2 Z / ZZ- Bearing with a metal seal on both sides.
• Z - Bearing with a metal seal on one side, one side open.
• E - Reinforced Design
• P2 - Highest precision
• K - Bearing with taper bore

 

[Martin Roper]

My HF "2hp" motor and blower are mounted vertically above a Super Dust Deputy near the ceiling with a wooden box of about 70 gallon capacity below the cyclone. I never operated it any other way and it is maybe 5 years old at this point. No issues. I did it this way to have the DC in about a 18 inch square in the corner of my shop. It exhausts through the wall to the outside. Works great!

Jim, if it isn't too much trouble, could you post a couple pics of that?

 

[JimD]

Sure. Pretty simple. The motor and blower are bolted to a piece of 3/4 plywood which is then screwed to two studs. There are two pieces of 3/4 plywood on the top and bottom of the dust box with weather seal inbetween. To empty the box (there is a plexiglass viewing port so I know when it's full) I unbolt the top piece of plywood attached to the cyclone from the box and then wheel the box out from under the cyclone. The cyclone just hangs from the blower and the piping (5 inch snap lock). Until the box goes back then the cyclone rests on the collection box. The box has 3/4 plywood top and bottom but the long vertical pieces are 6mm luan plywood with solid wood pieces in the corners. I wondered if the DC might suck the sides in but it hasn't happened. It's nice not to have to worry about how clean the filter is. The shop isn't heated or cooled so discharging outside doesn't hurt anything. If I empty the collection box when it is full there is no visible discharge. If I forget, the bushes get dust on them.

 

[Martin Roper]

Nice, Jim. That's about as compact as you can get.