Dovetail Jig

[windknot]

I am looking for a Dovetail Jig and possibly a new router. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Steve D]

Don't compromise on quality on the router, get the best you can afford or save up. I recently bought the 3.5hp Milwaukee and it is fantastic but probably overkill unless you plan to make recessed panel doors. I still use my Porter Cable 690 series frequently and it has been a workhorse. Dovetail jigs can get pretty pricey for a good one. I don't use mine that much so I haven't justified an upgrade from my basic cam operated unit. It works fine once it is set up but can't do through dovetails or variable spacing.

 

[SteveColes]

I am looking for a Dovetail Jig and possibly a new router. Anyone have any suggestions?

What router(s) do you have now?

 

[DaveO]

Welcome!!! are you prepared for more advice than you can stand. That is a very opened ended question. Depending on the types of DTs you want to do, Leigh's D4 and the smaller version D1600 will do great variable spaced thru DTs, I think it can also do 1/2 blind with another template. PC has their Omni-jig which is similar to the D4. Akeda also make a jig that will do both styles and it has some very innovative features, like dust collection For 1/2 blind DTs only, I like PC's jig, it works well for me. As far as routers, your choice really depends on what you want to do with it. For handheld and DT jig work PC 690 is a old standby, and Dewalt has a similar powered model..chose your color. For medium size plunge/ fixed combos and light table usage I personally recommend Dewalt's 618, the plunge action is smooth as a baby's butt. For under the table the PC 7518 is a favorite along with the M12 (Makita, I believe). For very small work like boxes a laminate trimmer works well, Bosch just came out with one that can be run one handed but has a little more power than most laminate trimmers. You probably will need several to fit all applications. I have three, PC690 for my DT jig and out of the shop use, DW618 for plunge and soon to mount under the table also, and a Craftsman 2 3/4 HP that I bought before I knew much, currently under the table, I hate the adjustment, bit changes, and lack of variable speed. You want to make sure that you have the capability of both 1/4 & 1/2" collets so you can use most bits available. If you give more specific needs and usage information, someone might be able to give a more precise recommendation. But that's my .02. And again welcome to the forum, I look forward to your input. Dave

 

[DaveO]

Wow, while typing my thesis to you, several others replied. I got to learn to type faster. So look out for the opinions:-o Dave

 

[windknot]

I have a small Makita plunge router, which has been more than enough to meet my needs. I learned a long time ago a router was never going to be a shaper. Been doing woodwork a long time, since I was in high school. I am interested in making some hinged lid keepsake type boxes for a program I am working with. I have been stockpiling some great hardwoods for a couple years and will use this for the project. I am really interested in producing clean tight joints that will will finish up well. I have seen basic jigs ranging from $30-$200. Curius in what you guys have and like, which are the easiest to master, what kind of routers do you like for this specific purpose. I would like to be able to use the jig for various thicknesses 1/4'-1 1/2". I think 12" width would be OK. I have seen Porter Cable advertise Between September 1, 2005 and December 31, 2005, purchase the 690LR 1-3/4 Peak HP Router or 9690LR 1-3/4 Peak HP Router (with case) AND the 4210 12" Dovetail Jig and get the 4213 1/2" Half Blind Dovetail Templet FREE!Anyone had experience with this setup?

 

[Steve D]

Another option on the template is the Stots Jig http://www.stots.com/tm.htmI haven't used it but it has received very good reviews. I've been tempted to get one myself and give it a go. I like the fact that it can be used with the router table, which greatly reduces the chance of screwing up by tilting when making the cuts.

As someone else mentioned, multiple routers works best. The PC 690 has been a standby because of the interchangeable bases. The new 890 is an improvement with variable speed and dust collection but is underpowered for large diameter bits. I bought the Milwaukee 5625 for my router table because I make a lot of raised panel doors. Even though it is big and heavy it is great for handheld work too. At a minimum you should have a fixed base and a plunge. I kept the fixed based mounted in the router table, used the plunge for freehand work and swapped the PC 690 motor between the two for years.

Steve

 

[DaveO]

I believe that the PC 4210 is a newer version of the one I have, with a few upgrades. It works great but can only do 1/2 blind. IMHO, for the box work you mentioned, a thru dovetail would be most attractive. For those the Leigh D1600 probably would be a good direction to go in. That's on my X-mas list:eusa_pray Insomniac has posted recently his work with the D4 and it makes some beautiful DTs, he'll be around later this evening and may be able to give some advice. Both those routers mentioned in the ad are great, but IMHO I like a soft start feature and variable speed which I don't think those have. BTW your Makita should do DT jigs just fine as long as it can accept a guide bushing in it's sub-base. Dave

 

[Big Mike]

I have too many routers but somehow manage to use them all. I have a PC 690, the small 1 3/4 or 2 horsepower Dewalt plunge, a Freud 3 1/4 horsepower for the router table, a PC 7518 for the router table, a couple of Craftsman routers, and a laminate trimmer.

For dovetails I use my Keller Pro 16" and a Craftsman dovetail jig for both through and half blind but there are better jigs on the market. The Keller is very pricey now even in the Journeyman model. I paid less for the Pro 16 than the Journeyman costs now. If I had DaveO's money I would buy the D4 :lol: .

If you are gonna do a lot of dovetails get a good jig. If you are gonna use your router as a shaper get a 3 or more horsepower. You can't beat the PC 690/690LR/9690LR or Milwaukee 5625 for good utilitarian tools. IMHO!

 

[DaveO]

If you had DaveO's money you would be poor:-( , come on I'm a landscaper.:lol: I've always wondered about the Keller DT system, it looks like just the template that you attach to a board and clamp to your work piece:eusa_thin :eusa_thin . Dave

 

[Big Mike]

Dave, that is exactly what it looks like. The Pro templates though are separate for the pins and tails. These templates are made out of aircraft aluminum about 3/8" thick. You use a straight bit and a dovetail bit with top mounted bearings. Once you get it set up it is perfect every time. If for some reason your joints are tight you can make hairline adjustments easy and re-cut without starting over. I love mine but I do not use it as much as I did a few years ago. It has some disadvantages, no variable spacing and only two sizes of dovetails. It only does one thing, through dovetails, but it does them very well!:icon_thum

 

[SteveColes]

Ok, you guys no laughing at me.

I have both Dewalt 618 Combo and the PC 890 combo. But he actual usage is 618 in plunge base 890 in fixed base. My subjective feeling is that the PC is better built and will hold out longer. But as DaveO said the Dewalt plunge base just is much easier to use.

I have the PC Omnijig 7116 which is the older model, but it is built like a tank and very easy to to set up and use. It also wighs as much as a tank.

Both my router table and my TS extension wing have PC 7518.

 

[Monty]

After reading throught all of this, I sort of forgot what the question was! :lol:

Lots of good info here - interesting to hear about everyone's setup. Dovetail jigs and routers are two very different subjects. My dovetail jig is the Leigh D4. I didn't shop and compare with other jigs, so I can't comment on the others. I will say that this jig seems very well designed. It will do through dovetails, half-blind dovetails, and sliding dovetails with the standard guides. The guide pins are also fully adjustable so you can choose any layout you want to suit your project and your taste. I can't imagine wanting any more than that from a jig, but it will do more with optional templates. Biggest problem with the D4 is it's expensive -- I got mine on a 25% off sale, otherwise I too would be jigless! Since I bought it, it has become even more expensive! Is it worth it? Well, for that matter is spending ANY amount of money on a dovetail jig worth it? All you really need is a handsaw and a chisel, after all!

Just to add my contribution, but I use the Bosch 1617 combination for most work, and the Hitachi M12V in the router table. I've been very happy with both, for different reasons.

 

[DaveO]

I am really interested in producing clean tight joints that will will finish up well. I have seen basic jigs ranging from $30-$200.

For that type of work with small boxes, you might consider a box joint jig. You can get more WOW8-O power in the small space of a keepsake box side, and you can easily make the jig without spending a fortune. Again, Insomniac has posted pictures of a really nice set up he made with some Plans Now plans (I think):eusa_clap I've gotten a copy and plan to make it soon. It makes some strong and very attractive joints. Dave

 

[windknot]

Not sure who said this question would get a lot of attention...maybe I opened Pandora's box, HA HA:lol: NO pun intended. I will do some pricing and also check to see if my Makita will accept an insert bushing. If I don't have to buy another router, then I may spend a little more on the jig

 

[jglord]

I use the Leigh D4 and a Dewalt 618 and am very pleased with the combination.
One additional point on the D4: Leigh support folks have been great. One time they sent me pictures on how to layout some special joints, another time they called and spent an hour on the phone with me while I was in the shop with jig and router, helping to figure out a problem I was having.
Okay - here's a second point: their manual is fantastic. In addition, they supply a video on using the jig. It was very helpful to watch someone doing what the manual was describing (in great detail) and then going to the jig and following the manual. Really helped me learn how to do it. Maybe others don't need this much hand-holding, but it was what I needed.

 

[stoneskippers]

I know your dilemma about dovetail jigs. I bought a couple of real cheap ones and really wasted money. I eventually got an Incra jig and love it. I also have a Keller and it is worth its money. The thing about a lot of jig you have to use their bit and/or bushings. That what i like about the Incra you use standard bits.

 

[rickc]

I also use a Keller 1500 Journeyman, and have been very happy with it. Took a little tinkering to get it set right, but works great. I think you could also make your own bits with a little bit of know-how. You would just have to get a bearing the same diameter that would fit the jig and put it on the bit. What it will come down to is what you want for dovetails. The Leigh will allow you to set the dovetails at variable spacing. The Keller is restricted to a constant spacing and as noted you will be somewhat limited in the size of the stock you can use with it. I got my Keller for $95, new. So it has definitely been worth the money for what I use it for. Now, if I was going to make a lot of dovetails with differing spacing the Leigh would be the way I would go. I have also seen plans to make your own dovetail jig similar to the Leigh but out of wood. Would duplicate the effort. If you are interested, drop me a PM with your email address and I will send copies of the pages with the plans.

 

[chris99z71]

I've got the DeWalt 2hp plunge router (dw621) and if I had it to do again, I'd purchase a different one. This may be due to my application. I needed an all purpose router that I could use in many different ways: freehand/guide bearing type work, table mounted, etc.

My main gripe is with the switch. Yes, I've heard many say "it takes some getting used to," buy my disappointment goes deeper than that. Whenever I've got it mounted in a table, I have to put a clamp on the switch to keep it ON. The lock mechanism that they have for this purpose...well...lets just say that their engineers could use some refresher courses. It vibrates itself OFF almost immediately.
I also feel that that the base is too small and ackwardly shaped. It always feels very unstable when trying to run along the edge of something with a guide bearing. It really needs one of those offset acrylic/plexi bases with the handle to use as an "outrigger".
Trying to run it along a fence is also difficult because the shape of the base is goofy. Flat on opposite sides and rounded on the other 2 sides.
Other than that, it's fine. Plenty of power, smooth plunge (once you figure out that the springs to return the bit to the retracted position are about 10X stronger than they need to be and it'll just about rip the whole tool out of your hands when it springs back), good speed adjustment, 3 depth stops, easy to change bits.
Just my $0.02...hope it helps.