Dining room chairs

LocoWoodWork

Steve
Corporate Member
Here are three of six dining room chairs I have managed to complete. Maloof style joints, no pattern just eye balling and staying within the height width and depth. Believe it or not everyone who has tried them are surprised at how comfortable they are for hard wood. Two are all QSRO and one has a QSWO seat as I ran out of dry 9/4 QSRO stock.

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Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Wow. Building six chairs, that's WORK! Beautiful looking chairs, and I can believe your statement about comfort.
 

cyclopentadiene

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User
Im impressed. The seat takes considerable time to shape. Red oak is really hard so it must have been a real challenge.
i recently found a travisher to try but have not built a maloof project with it. My prior approach was carbide burr on angle grinder followed by rasps then Festool RO90 with 40 grit. I have not tried the approach with anything harder than cherry or walnut
 

LocoWoodWork

Steve
Corporate Member
Im impressed. The seat takes considerable time to shape. Red oak is really hard so it must have been a real challenge.
i recently found a travisher to try but have not built a maloof project with it. My prior approach was carbide burr on angle grinder followed by rasps then Festool RO90 with 40 grit. I have not tried the approach with anything harder than cherry or walnut

I still cheat and use carbide disk, RO 125 EQ and elbow grease. The most tedious part for me are the back slats.
 

Touchwood

New User
Don
Here are three of six dining room chairs I have managed to complete. Maloof style joints, no pattern just eye balling and staying within the height width and depth. Believe it or not everyone who has tried them are surprised at how comfortable they are for hard wood. Two are all QSRO and one has a QSWO seat as I ran out of dry 9/4 QSRO stock.

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Extremely nice work Steve. I cheated a bit with my back braces by laminating them on a form. Yours look beautiful
 

cyclopentadiene

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User
It looks like you use the Hal taylor laminated design for back slats. I have never tried these. I go traditional solid wood Maloof. The veritas tapered tennon cutters are awesome for fitting these into the holes. Each 1/8 turn can adjust the length by a few thousandths so you can get a very tight fit across all of the spindles. They are expensive but worth every penny!
 

Touchwood

New User
Don
It looks like you use the Hal taylor laminated design for back slats. I have never tried these. I go traditional solid wood Maloof. The veritas tapered tennon cutters are awesome for fitting these into the holes. Each 1/8 turn can adjust the length by a few thousandths so you can get a very tight fit across all of the spindles. They are expensive but worth every penny!
You're right The Taylor holes are actually elongated to allow for the ample flex in the back braces
 

LocoWoodWork

Steve
Corporate Member
It looks like you use the Hal taylor laminated design for back slats. I have never tried these. I go traditional solid wood Maloof. The veritas tapered tennon cutters are awesome for fitting these into the holes. Each 1/8 turn can adjust the length by a few thousandths so you can get a very tight fit across all of the spindles. They are expensive but worth every penny!
You're right The Taylor holes are actually elongated to allow for the ample flex in the back braces

All of the braces on these are solid wood. Used a BS to cut the curves and tapers. 1/2" dowel cutter on ends. 1/2 forstner bit on seat and head. Spoke shave to taper.

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