demilune fit for scrap - gutted

[DavidF]

Well the table was almost finished, sanded with micromesh till it gleamed. Ebony legs looking sensational, all that was left was to pour the resin into "Jordan lake" What B#$$d invented that #$$% polyester resin? I researched the web, I made test pours in scrap lakes, I read all the instructions and then went for it. Poured 1/4 inch at a time to avoid heat and bubbles. First layer great - it works. 2nd layer, crap, bubbles in all the small thin areas of the shape. Oh well, we'll call them waves!. 3rd pour Uhm, not so good when I left it at night and sang to it, waved beads over it - what ever it took. In the morning, not so good, bubbles formed over night dispite precautions, ok, higher waves! 4th pour just to the top, over night ok just a few lumps. During dinner, I looked across at it admireingly Ahhhhhh during the day under the heat of the sun I had 1/4 inch "ballons" coming up through resin that should have been cured. Gutted, that's all I can say, the thing is scrap! Tried a few things last night; cut out the bubbles, re-filled with just 1mm of resin, this morning the buggers are back!! small, but there and spoiling the whole thing. 3 plans, sand and polish to a fine surface, route out the whole area again oversize and fill with west expoxy or similar, or sand flat and inlay a solid veneer of maple or something to give the lake shape. 4th plan is scrap it. Been working on this since May! Anybody want to buy a slightly wind blown "Jordan Lake" table?

 

[Monty]

Ouch. That sucks.

Just put a tiny little windsurfer on there, and call it a "feature"!

Seriously, could you rout it all out and start over?

 

[SteveColes]

Which resin did you use? Type and Brand

 

[cskipper]

Oh man, I hate that that's how it turned out. It's so beautiful before them. Hopefully you can salvage.

 

[woodguy1975]

Dave, I feel for your pain. That really sucks. Don't scrap that table. It looks awsome. I'd route it out and inlay in the maple and call it done.

Let us know how it goes.

Good Luck,

John

 

[DaveO]

I would have to vote for the routing out and inlay approach. There is too much work in that table to scrap it. Plus you might like your new design feature even better. When life gives you lemons, make some lemonaide, or throw them lemons back at life:lol:

Dave

 

[Jonz]

I agree, inlay a good contrasting wood, or to keep with your original theme, paint the bottom and sides of a thick piece of plexi blue or whatever you want to represent water and inlay it.

 

[Steve D]

I would agree with the rout it out approach. I'm sorry for how this turned out, there is nothing more frustrating than something like this at the end of a project. Epoxy is another viable option but you run the same risk with bubbles. If you want to go creative with the inlay, you could do a figured piece like curly with a colored dye stain:


Voila! A lake

 

[DavidF]

I'm seriously tempted to go with the inlay, let you know what I decide and how it goes.

Resin was from here:

http://www.dickblick.com/zz335/22/

 

[DavidF]

SteveD - love the idea of curly, don't know about blue!

 

[sapwood]

Ouch!

Though devoid of woodworking advice, I can sure say that SUCKS:crybaby2:

Sapwood

 

[Steve D]

I would joke that you probably aren't accustomed to blue water with the grey skies in the UK but you're prpbably not in the mood :lol:

SteveD - love the idea of curly, don't know about blue!

 

[woodguy1975]

Hehehehehehehe.

I was thinking about doing the same thing.

John

 

[DavidF]

Thats it, kick a guy when he's down:lol:

Actually if I don't laugh I'll cry:crybaby2:

 

[SteveColes]

I'm seriously tempted to go with the inlay, let you know what I decide and how it goes.

Resin was from here:

http://www.dickblick.com/zz335/22/

For a change, I might actually have something to contribute. At least for next person

I've been using epoxies for modeling work for many years. For instance, I used epoxy to create a lake for HO gauge model train layout for my grand daughter. And I've created clear blocks with embedded items using epoxy.

These type of two part reactions will generate heat (Thermogenic?) as part of the curing process. When using mixes that start generating heat too quickly such as the one you used, (16 min to gel). The trapped air in the poured mixture begins to expand creating bigger bubbles, but they don't get a chance to reach the top, becuase the medium gets too thick too soon. you want to use a product that doesn't even begin to set for at least a couple of hours.

Something like this, might have produced better results. I've never used this brand, but its specs and its intended application sound perfect. The stuff I used, is the stuff they sell in hobby shops.

 

[DavidF]

Funny you should say that, but I have a kit of that in the shop. We had a demo from the system 3 rep at my old club in NH and I WON a kit in a raffle!. In hind site that may have been better. The rep demoed the method of waving a flame over the surface to break the bubbles. In my case, you are right, the resin started to gel before the bubbles could escape.

This whole project was one of new techniques and therefore a good learning experience.

Thanks for the input.

 

[DavidF]

Steve - would you pour that in stages too? my total depth is 30mm

 

[SteveColes]

I would, if I was using the I used to use. But since this is a different formulation I woulf their application guide. I think it is on their website if you register.

 

[D L Ames]

DavidF, I am sorry to hear about your trouble. I know you mentioned routing the area out. Is it possible to do that and then maybe go with the product that Steve mentioned and still save the table? Just curious, when you did your test pour, did you pour to a full 30 mm depth following your method of pouring in stages? Was there any bubbles with your test pour?

I wish I could offer some advice for you but I am at a loss on this one.

D L

 

[DavidF]

My first test pour was 30mm in one go, lots of bubbles around the edge, but a fast cure. 2nd was in stages and it worked fine, no bubbles. However, the difference in the test pour was that it was just a 3" dia circle, no little nooks and crannies and this is where the problem occured. I have since read that manufacturers create "escape" holes in these tight areas to allow the "out gas" to escape without coming to the surface; not an option in my application.

By yesterday evening things had changed a little and in some areas the bubbles had hardened on the surface, but had cleared from below so I am adopting a 4 part strategy. First sand the surface to flush and smooth and return the gloss using the mico mesh system which seems to work well. If I am happy with that then fine, just re-finish the table top. 2nd would be to route out and re-pour with "system 3" I can do 3 pours to get it to within 1/4" of the top; if all is well then I pour the last one and have a large drink! if not then I will stop the 1/4 short and do the wood inlay. So I can work my way through all solutions without reaching a point of no return.

That's the theory anyway.