Damn 16/4 Red Oak
- Thread starter drchristian
- Start date
It is 16/4 got it from the Hardwood Store In Gibsonville. They are going to make it good, they are good people. They said that on thicker stock, if their kin operator pushes the kiln on thick stock that can happen. Part of it is my inexperience. If I had looked closer there was surface evidence on one side. It just goes with woodworking experience, I guess.
The folks at the Hardwood Store are excellent to work with and they'll work with you to make it right. Don't beat yourself up, any of us could have done the same thing without noticing the defects.
Yes they are, one call and they took care of it. The sign of a great company is how they handle issues and NC Hardwood Store is #1 in my book. Good people.
David, you really are working with some massive boards. A few years back I made two sets of bunk beds for my son's growing family. As I recall, the bed post were about four inches, but I made those those but ripping 8/4 hard maple and folding the resulting 2"x4" boards together. I used dominos and plenty of tite bond. The result was very satisfactory. Handing 8/4 stock was certainly easier than 16/4 (I am not sure I could handle 16/4 stock...it certainly would be a wrestling match).
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David, there is no known kiln drying process for drying 16/4 oak from green. Limited success has been achieved with 12/4, but it’s still iffy.
The damage that you are seeing is called “honeycomb”. It is a direct result of drying oak too quickly.
The kiln schedule for 16/4 is approximately a year. No kiln owner is going to tie up a conventional or DH kiln that long. Instead the material is usually air dried for 4 years and then placed in a kiln to finish it.
My recommendation for folks that want to build with thick oak is to do a glue-up from 4/4 or 5/4 lumber.
Scott
The damage that you are seeing is called “honeycomb”. It is a direct result of drying oak too quickly.
The kiln schedule for 16/4 is approximately a year. No kiln owner is going to tie up a conventional or DH kiln that long. Instead the material is usually air dried for 4 years and then placed in a kiln to finish it.
My recommendation for folks that want to build with thick oak is to do a glue-up from 4/4 or 5/4 lumber.
Scott
Great information, that is probably what I will do. Thank You
The Hardwood Store told you "They said that on thicker stock, if their kin operator pushes the kiln on thick stock that can happen." I didn't know that The Hardwood Store had their own kilns. ?????????
The damage that you are seeing is called “honeycomb”. It is a direct result of drying oak too quickly.
The kiln schedule for 16/4 is approximately a year. No kiln owner is going to tie up a conventional or DH kiln that long. Instead the material is usually air dried for 4 years and then placed in a kiln to finish it.
The damage that you are seeing is called “honeycomb”. It is a direct result of drying oak too quickly.
The kiln schedule for 16/4 is approximately a year. No kiln owner is going to tie up a conventional or DH kiln that long. Instead the material is usually air dried for 4 years and then placed in a kiln to finish it.
They don’t, they buy products from those who do, I never said they had their own kiln. I do not know their internal operation but I do know they are great people who stand behind what they sell.
I have always glued up bed posts, usually the beds I make call for 3 inch square. I would be worried about single piece posts moving a little as they are cut to size. I think the glued up posts, while possibly not as attractive, will be stronger and more stable. I appreciate the information on drying really thick material and you posting your experience. It helps to reinforce my standard practice - but if it did not, then I would have learned something too.
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